The Michelin-star road test: from steak to stout

Chef-patron of Lindsay House in London's Soho (020 7439 0450). He has one Michelin star: Head sommelier at Petrus, which re-opens in the Berkeley hotel in September www.petrus-restaurant.com
  
  


Sourdough bread : Oatcakes : Steak and kidney pie : Bubble and squeak/ Cabbage and mash : French dressing : Cashel blue cheese : Black pudding : Irish whiskey : Stout Kippers

Loch Fyne, 600g, £5.50, (01499 600264; www.loch-fyne.com)

Now this is a smoked fish. A light smokey flavour that doesn't invade the palate so it's a starter more than a breakfast.

*****

L. Robson and Sons, Craster Kippers, 500g, £6 (01665 576223; www.kipper.co.uk)

One for the morning after. Your quintessential heavily cured kipper. Moist, flakey and potent.

****

Sally Barnes Woodcock Smokery, 500g, £6, (00 353 28 36232)

Grill this one and serve it with a mixed leaf salad. Very fresh, subtle and a treat.

****

Co-op Kipper Cutlets with Butter, 250g, 89p

This is not a kipper as I know it.It tastes like it's been steeped in a smoked flavouring and orange colour has been added. Vile.

no stars

Safeway Kippers with Butter, 250g, 99p

Did this come from the same plant as the Co-op kipper? More of a metal taste than a fish one. Is this really fish? Worrying.

no stars

Poilne, £3.53/kg, available from Harrods, Waitrose, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Fortnum and Mason The caviar of the bread world.

*****

Schneider Brot, Whole Grain Rye, 500g, 95p, available from Waitrose

When I worked in The Netherlands I couldn't live without it. Great with Edam.

****

Waitrose Sourdough, over the counter, 89p a loaf

This is a fair attempt. Not terribly sour, but good value.

***

The Village Bakery, Rossisky, 800g, approx £1.85, available at Waitrose and Sainsbury's.

Sawdust texture with the taste of a thousand breads.

*

Baking Emporium Rye and Spelt Sourdough, £3.25/loaf (00 353 234 5260; www.bakingemporiumltd.com) Borough market from mid September. Promising but undercooked.

*

Tesco Finest Scottish Oatcakes with Cracked Black Pepper, 250g, 99p

Salty, moist, but not quite there. The pepper comes through at the end. Good TV snack.

****

Safeway Organic Oatcakes, 300g, 99p

OK. Fine. Not the best texture but thankfully, it does taste of oats.

***

Land of Macbeth Crofter's Oatcakes, 300g, £1.50, available at Harvey Nichols

Sweet and perfectly crumbly, but no flavour. Pass the salt please.

**

Stockan & Garden Orginal Orkney Oatcakes (organic), 100g, 69p, available from Booths

Thin and crispy but there's no particular identity. Neither good nor bad.

**

Tesco Puff Pastry medium, 630g, £3.39

Not a bad effort. A pie that would satisfy at the end of a day (after a hard day in the kitchen and a few pints).

****

Sainsbury's Deep Filled Puff Pastry, 210g, £1.59

Oh - there's actually a bit of kidney in this one. Nicely puffed pastry and a similiar flavour to the Tesco pie.

****

M & S Butter Enriched Shortcrust Pastry, 170g, £1.19

The best quality meat of the lot, but hiding in the pastry.

**

Safeway Puff Pastry, 540g, £2.99

Great pastry; dreary filling. Could we have some flavour here please Safeway?

*

M & S Traditional Oatcakes, 300g, 69p

First they are brittle and then they form a stodge when you chew. Ugh!

no stars

Asda Shortcrust, 680g, £1.76

This one wasn't precooked and so it could benefit from being cooked a little longer. But why bother? It was a desperate pie and as for the filling, excuse me while I...

no stars

Safeway Eat Smart Cabbage Mash, 450g, £1.59

Baby food. No flavour.

no stars

M & S Savoy Cabbage and Spring Onion Potato Mash, 450g, £1.69

Nicely packaged but unbearable emulsifed starch.

no stars

Aunt Bessie's Bubble & Squeak, 550g, £1.49 www.auntbessies.co.uk available at Sainsbury's,

Looks good, tastes like dog food.

no stars

Tesco Bubble & Squeak, 650g, £1.99

At least this one had a rustic look to it. It wasn't too purified, but please, spare us the cabbage stalks.

***

Asda Creamy French dressing, 240g, 78p

I would eat this if I had to because it's not totally vile. Needs more mustard and vinegar but, thankfully, it isn't too sweet.

***

Waitrose Bubble and Squeak, 450g, £1.79

Has a smidgen of body and texture. Poor seasoning and the cabbage was too finely chopped.

**

Loyd Grossman French dressing, 250g, £1.69, available at Safeways, Asda and Sainsbury's

Is this salad cream? It would appeal to Americans because it is too sweet and creamy. But not bad.

**

Maille, Vinaigrette Provençale, 250g £1.49, available from Sainsbury's and Waitrose

This tasteless, horrible dressing is no reflection of a company that makes one of the finest mustards in the world.

**

Marks & Spencer French dressing, 315g, £1.99

If only they had put the same amount of effort into the pro-duct as they had into the bottle. Tastes like fat-fryer oil. A disgrace.

no stars

Waitrose Gourmet French dressing, 175ml, £1.19

It's sweet, it's sour and - quite rightly - it doesn't have a sickly creamy look. I'd be delighted to have this on my table.

*****

La Fromagerie, £15.50/kg (020 7935 0341; www.lafromagerie.co.uk)

Very creamy with just the right amount of rich blue veins. I can't fault it so the cheeese must have been stored with love and care.

*****

Asda Black Pudding Stick, £2.90/kg

Looked promising but tastes like wet cement.

*

Neal's Yard, £14.50/kg (020 7240 5700)

We serve Neal's Yard Cashel: It's expertly stored to keep its soft texture and creamy taste.

*****

Waitrose £9.99/kg

Not bad for a supermarket effort. A little too salty - which means it was probably kept at room temperature too long - but adequate.

**

Harvey Nichols, £13.50/kg

Strong and salty but two points for the texture. Signs of melting around the sides so it must have been kept too warm for too long.

**

Booths, £8.80/kg

What did they do to this cheese - keep it in the oven? Completely inedible; like eating sea water.

no stars

Clonakiltys, £7.50/kg, www.clonakiltyblackpudding.ie stockists Fortnum & Mason, Harrods and Harvey Nichols

Now this kicks ass. Rough texture, subtle spices and not too much fat.

*****

Waitrose , £3.50/kg, over the counter

Looks moist and crumbly but the reality bears more relation to dog food than decent black pudding.

*

Sainsbury's, 170g, 55p

Tastes like Chinese food.

*

 

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