This restaurant stands out on Gerrard Street, not least because of its open-plan, vaguely voguish interiors - the Chinese restaurant by Ikea with leftover chairs from MFI. Tellingly, the auspicious symbol of the dragon is drawn across a screen in multicoloured flashing lights: modernity with a refreshing bit of colour.

Dim sum is the thing here. Along with the usual barbecued pork steamed buns and cheung fun, there are rarer treats. The menu's highlight is a cold dish of jellyfish: crunchy and tasting deeply of the sea, this is brilliantly teamed with slightly sulphurous, green-yolked preserved egg and cleansing pickled ginger. Baked tarte with shredded turnip is also a must. Dim sum desserts are well-executed: red bean and coconut mousse is excellent, combining the rough bean with silky coconut pudding. Steamed sponge spliced with custard is wonderfully eggy.