I am alone in Birmingham. I often seem to be alone when I am in Birmingham. I once spent Valentine's night by myself in the city's Holiday Inn, which sounds like a punishment for some terrible sin. All I remember is the bad food: the slaughtered duck and its grievous crime of an orange sauce, followed by something festering for dessert. There is nothing lousier than bad food eaten alone.

But things are looking up. Selfridges has arrived in Britain's second city, its purpose-designed building squatting on the skyline like some giant over-filled water-bed, and there are grand arcades of new shops where the Bullring market used to be. The city is not, however, blessed with great restaurants, not for a conurbation of its size. There are outposts of both Petit Blanc and Bank and a few stalwart bistros, but mostly it is mass market chains, passable Chinese and some brilliant Indians. It is not as bad as the nearby Black Country, but little is. Put it this way: Birmingham's leading newspaper's food writer is a vegetarian. What can I tell you?

But there is good news here, too. The city has a new restaurant, and it is very good. Not just good for Birmingham; good for anywhere. Jessica's occupies the back half of a large redbrick Victorian house in Edgbaston, where the trees grow. There is a walled courtyard and a dining room, dominated by a conservatory which fills the space with light and greenery from the garden. But the best thing about this comely dining room lies beyond the kitchen doors, and his name is Glynn Purnell.

Purnell is a local boy. He loves the city. He trained here at the Metropole Hotel and lived here even when he was working with Claude Bosi at the highly regarded Hibiscus in Ludlow. His cooking is modern but not overwrought, subtle without being flyaway, satisfying without being overly rich. A starter of red mullet, the fillet cooked until the proteins have just set and partnered with a light sauce of Jerusalem artichokes beaten to a foam, shows the way. Bravely, the mullet was allowed a distinct fishiness, which the artichoke undercut. Crunch came from a few green beans, and on the side was a square of sweet jelly containing a dice of bean and artichoke.

I was so indecisive I almost chose my main course with a pin. It could have been the glazed milk-fed rabbit with honey, pistachios and almonds. Or the saddle of lamb and braised shoulder with a potato and cep gratin. Instead, I had veal loin, served in pink, creamy slices atop a fricassée of young squid, white beans, parsley and garlic. Who knew that the juvenile sweetness of squid and veal would work so well together? Well, Purnell, obviously.

I finished with an exemplary crème brûlée hiding a layer of pear and crushed walnuts, accompanied by a pear sorbet and then, with coffee, nibbled at a peanut butter lolly: a little ball of an iced peanut butter parfait, encased in bitter chocolate, all on a stick. You know that sounds good. Three courses are £29.50, though an interesting lunch menu costs £19.50. There is also a separate vegetarian menu.

Jessica's has been in business just a few months, but its confidence is striking. It knows what it wants to be and, clearly, has found its market, because I heard the maître d' turning away bookings on the phone. So book in advance and book often. You might even want to go alone.

· Jessica's, 19 Portland Road, Edgbaston, Birmingham (0121 455 0999). Meal for two, including wine and service, £75-100.