What the restaurant critics really thought

Is Sketch astonishingly sublime or overpriced tosh? The experts have their say.
  
  


· Is it worth the cost?

'To say it is expensive is a little like saying Dolly Parton is quite a big girl.'
Jay Rayner, The Observer

'A ticket to this event is more expensive than grand opera.'
Fay Maschler, Evening Standard

'There is only one type of diner who can eat there without terminal damage to their bank balance. They are a type who, when they aren't shouting into their phones, are smoking cigars all the way through a meal.'
Matthew Fort, The Guardian

· What about the design?

'It brings to mind a meeting between Alice in Wonderland and Federico Fellini.'
Matthew Norman, Sunday Telegraph

'I find the design concept a lot of bollocks.'
Matthew Fort

· And the lavatories?

'Had the Millennium Dome contained anything as astonishing as Sketch's egg toilet-pods visitors would still be queueing outside.'
Tracey MacLeod, The Independent

'One set of lavatories is encrusted with glass and crystal. More of them squat in a room the size of most restaurants, a clutch of pods that could be the set of a science-fiction film.'
A.A. Gill, Sunday Times

· And so to the food...

'Surely science applied to food should be with the aim of nourishing more of those who go hungry rather than splitting the atoms in foie gras.'
Fay Maschler

'This is generally the sort of food I would run naked to avoid. But on the plate, some of it was innovatively, ululatingly sublime... a bewildering variety of dishes that looked both supremely elegant and as if someone had wiped their bottom on them.'
A.A. Gill

'There can be no questioning the brilliance of the flawless technique.'
Matthew Fort

'If you like lots of small dishes of tepid, unidentifiable ingredients, you're laughing.'
Tracey MacLeod

· On the chocolate dessert:

'...Oh my God.'
Jay Rayner

· What's the dress code?

'Wear a blindfold in preparation for the arrival of the bill.'
Matthew Norman

· Tea, anyone?

'Everybody with £5 should go to the teashop and have tea and a cake. Nothing they do this Christmas will make them feel happier. And it's about the same price as Starbucks.'
Julian Metcalfe, founder of Pret à Manger

· And finally...

The Gallery restaurant: The prices are 'for mugs'; the food is 'pretentious tosh'. The Lecture Room: The menu is 'fussy' and 'extortionately overpriced'.
Harden's Guide

 

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