'I have always loved coming to the River Café. I worked with [the owners] Rose and Ruth once, when I did a sculpture for one of their books. They brought a whole load of food to the studio and I crafted it into a sculpture. Playing with food is being creative at the most simple level, very childlike. In cooking, too, there's the same kind of sensuality. I've cooked quite well myself for the last 10 years or so. It's a similar to making an artwork - except you don't have to think what cooking means.'

The River Café, Thames Wharf Studios, Rainville Road, London, W6 (020 7381 8824)