Whatley Manor, Easton Grey, Malmesbury, Wiltshire (01666 822888)
According to most reports, superlatives barely do justice to the delights of this listed Cotswold manor house hotel, set in 12 acres of immaculate gardens. It's only fitting, then, that Martin Burge's food should be equally exquisite - trios of Welsh lamb, Scottish beef cooked two ways, even pig's trotter stuffed with pig's ear. Three courses a la carte cost £60; finish with 'a selection' of chocolate and pistachio desserts and you'll hardly notice the pain. The staff are very French.

La Rive, Castle House, Castle Street, Hereford (01432 356321)
Who knows what treats await on Gary Wheeler's seven-course menu (£49.95)? It is, studiedly, 'a surprise', with pressing of wild rabbit and foie gras, rabbit 'trifle', chorizo and white bean salad, or poached fillet of veal, tartlet of sweetbreads and wild mushrooms. It's just what guests to this beautiful converted Georgian town house have come to relish.

Ynyshir Hall, Machynlleth, Powys (01654 781209)
New head chef Adam Simmonds is the 'cleverest' cook they've ever had at this picture-perfect country house - and they've had a few. Only seven minutes from the sea and based in a nature reserve, its supplies are fantastically fresh and pure. Cardigan Bay lobsters are served with lemony, wild woodland sorrel, girolles and fresh almonds. Courgette flowers grown in the garden are filled with scallop mousse. Tomatoes (souffle, sorbet and jelly) grace the dessert menu. Three courses cost £49, but are punctuated by many inter-course treats.