It is the original foodie nation, a place where the notion of celebrity chef recipe books is just as likely to be swallowed as ready-made lasagne. Unlike us Brits, with our ubiquitous collections of Jamies, Nigellas and Delias, Italians learn to cook from their parents and grandparents, and take a serious amount of pride in knowing how to rustle up supper without a recipe to hand. There is, however, one exception: Il Cucchiaio d'Argento, The Silver Spoon, a 55-year-old, hefty 1,264-page cookery book. It's been the most popular recipe book in Italy since 1950 and is the book every bride is given on her wedding day. Now into its eighth edition, it's about to be published in English for the first time. Chef Giorgio Locatelli, of Michelin-starred Locanda Locatelli, recalls, 'When my grandmother passed away I was about 10. She had always cooked for us, so my mum had to become the family's cook. We have never been a very book-oriented family and my grandmother certainly never had a cookery book. When my mum started cooking, she decided to buy one book, and that book was Silver Spoon. To this date, it is the only book she owns (except mine of course!) and she always goes for the short recipes - of which, fortunately, there are many.'
Gennaro Contaldo, legendary chef of Il Passione in London and Jamie Oliver's mentor, calls the book 'my kitchen bible. I have had a copy for as long as I can remember, and I would not be without it'.
Gordon Ramsay is equally impressed, 'It's an amazing encyclopedia of Italian food - comprehensive and inspiring'.
Angela Hartnett, Gordon Ramsay's head chef at the Connaught, whose grandmother is Italian, says, 'I remember the Silver Spoon in her kitchen - I'm so excited that it's finally being translated'.
The translation has certainly been a long time coming. Each recipe had to be rewritten, and since many of the ingredients that are easy to get in Italy are impossible to get over here, alternatives had to be found. Chamois isn't something you can easily pick up at your local supermarket, but recipes calling for it suggest veal as an alternative. Publisher Emilia Terragni says: 'I was told Americans and some Brits don't like "wobbly bits", especially tongue, but we've kept all those recipes, including the offal. If people don't like it they can skip the whole chapter - there are still 1,950 recipes left to choose from.'
The book is separated into courses, and each section has an introduction explaining the ingredients, how to prepare them and when they are in season. Twenty-five Italian chefs, who work all over the world, have also contributed recipes to the book, including Arrigo Cipriani of the Cipriani, Ruth Rogers of the River Cafe and Giorgio Locatelli. The Italians have kept their culinary secrets to themselves for too long - Silver Spoon gives the rest of us a chance to get our hands on them. Buon Appetito.
Duck fillets with figs
serves 4
1 small duck, with liver
1tbs olive oil
50g butter, plus extra for greasing
250ml red wine
1tbs lemon juice
2.5kg fresh figs
½ white loaf, sliced and crusts removed
salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/gas mark 8. Set the liver aside. Season the cavity of the duck with salt and pepper and truss with kitchen string. Place the duck in a roasting tin, add the oil and 10g of the butter. Roast the duck for 1 hour, then remove from the oven and lower the temperature to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Cut off the wings, breast and legs and break up the carcass with a meat mallet. Stir the red wine into the roasting tin, add the carcass and cook in the oven for 10 minutes, then remove from the oven but do not switch it off. Pass the cooking juices through a food mill into a saucepan and stir in the lemon juice. Chop the liver and add to the sauce. Cut the figs almost in half and open out slightly. Grease another roasting tin with butter, add the figs and put a small piece of the remaining butter in each, then bake until lightly browned. Remove the figs from the oven and season with salt and pepper. Melt the remaining butter in a frying pan, add the slices of bread and cook until golden brown on both sides. Carve the legs into slices and cut the breast into fillets. Place the fried bread and duck in the middle of a warm serving dish, arrange the figs around them and spoon the sauce over the duck.
Pumpkin tortelli
serves 4
for the pasta
200g plain flour, preferably Italian type 00, plus extra for dusting
2 eggs, lightly beaten
salt
for the filling
500g pumpkin, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 tbs olive oil
200g parmesan cheese, freshly grated, plus extra to serve
2 eggs, lightly beaten
8-120g breadcrumbs
50g butter
8 fresh sage leaves
salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Prepare the pasta by sifting the flour and a pinch of salt into a mound on a board. make a well in the centre and add the eggs. Use your fingers to gradually mix in the flour and then knead for 10 minutes. Add flour or water if the mixture feels too firm or soft. Form a ball and leave to rest. Meanwhile put the pumpkin in a roasting tin, drizzle with the oil, cover with foil and bake for about 1 hour. Pass the pumpkin through a food mill into a bowl, add the parmesan and eggs and season with salt and pepper. Stir in enough breadcrumbs to make a fairly firm mixture. Roll out the pasta dough into a sheet and stamp out 7.5cm rounds with a pastry cutter. Spoon a little of the pumpkin filling onto the centre of each round, fold in half and crimp the edges. Cook the tortelli in a large pan of salted, boiling water for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a frying pan, add the sage and cook for a few minutes. Drain the tortelli, place in a warm serving dish and sprinkle with the sage butter and extra parmesan.
Pizza Napoletana
serves 4
for the base
250g plain flour, preferably Italian type 00, plus extra for dusting
¾ tsp salt
15g fresh yeast
120ml lukewarm water
olive for brushing
for the topping
olive oil
<br.5-6 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
<br.150g mozzarella, sliced
pinch of dried oregano
8 tinned anchovy fillets, drained
salt
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas mark 7. To make the base sift the flour and salt into a mound on a work surface and make a well in the centre. Mash the yeast in the water with a fork until very smooth and then pour into the well. Incorporate the flour with your fingers to make a soft dough. Knead it well then shape it into a ball, cut a cross into the centre, place in a bowl and cover. Leave the dough to rise in a warm place for about three hours, until it has nearly doubled in size. Flatten the dough with the palm of your hand and roll out on a lightly floured surface to form a circle about 5mm thick. Brush a baking sheet with oil or line it with baking parchment. Put the dough on it and press out until it covers the area of the tray. Make sure the rim is thicker than the centre. Scatter the tomatoes evenly on the dough and drizzle with olive oil by pouring it in a circle once over the pizza. Put it in the oven for 18 minutes, then add the mozzarella, oregano and anchovy fillets, season with salt and add more oil if necessary. Bake for 7-8 minutes or until crisp.
Roman spring lamb
serves 4
1 kg leg of lamb
plain flour, for dusting
3 tbs olive oil
3 fresh rosemary sprigs
4 fresh sage leaves, chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
175ml white wine
5 tbs white wine vinegar
4 large potatoes, sliced
salt and pepper
3 anchovies (optional)
Chop the leg into pieces or ask the butcher to do this for you. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Dust the pieces of lamb with flour. Heat the oil in a wide roasting tin, add the lamb and cook over a high heat, turning frequently, for about 10 minutes until browned all over. Season with salt and pepper, add the rosemary sprigs and sprinkle with the sage and garlic. Turn the pieces over several times so that they soak up the flavour. Mix together the wine and vinegar, add to the roasting tin and cook until the liquid has almost completely evaporated. Add 150ml boiling water and the potatoes, cover and roast for 30 minutes or until tender. If the gravy seems to be drying out, add a little hot water mixed with white wine vinegar. Transfer the lamb to a warm serving dish and serve while still hot. For an even tastier alternative, omit the potatoes, and when the lamb is nearly ready transfer 2-3 tablespoons of the gravy to a small pan, add three boned and chopped salted anchovies and cook over a low heat, mashing the anchovies with a wooden spoon until they have almost disintegrated. Mix well, pour the sauce over the meat and roast for a few minutes more before serving.
Mushroom tortellini
serves 4
200g fresh pasta dough (as before)
4 tbs olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
300g porcini, thinly sliced
250g ricotta cheese, crumbled
50g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated, plus extra to serve
1 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprig, chopped
40g butter
10 fresh sage leaves
salt and pepper
Prepare the pasta dough and leave to rest covered with a damp tea towel for 30 minutes. Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion and porcini and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Season with salt and cook for a further 15 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a food processor, add the ricotta, parmesan and parsley and process to a purée. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Roll out the pasta dough to make a thin sheet and cut out 5 cm squares. Put a little ricotta mixture into the centre of each square. Fold the squares corner to corner into triangles, then wrap each triangle around your index finger, press the points together and gently push the rest of the dough backwards to make a classic tortellini shape. Melt the butter in a large frying pan, add the sage leaves and cook for a few minutes. Cook the tortellini in a large pan of salted, boiling water until al dente. Drain, add to the frying pan and stir over a high heat. Transfer to a warm serving dish, sprinkle with parmesan and serve.
Stuffed aubergines
serves 4
4 aubergines
3tbs olive oil, plus extra for brushing
1 onion, chopped
1 celery stick, chopped
3 red or green peppers, halved, seeded and chopped
4 ripe tomatoes, diced
2 eggs, lightly beaten
3 tbs parmesan cheese, freshly grated
salt and pepper
Halve the aubergines lengthways and scoop out the flesh without piercing the 'shells'. Chop the flesh and reserve the shells. Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes until soft. Add the chopped aubergine flesh, celery, peppers and tomatoes, season with salt and pepper and cook over a low heat for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Brush an ovenproof dish with olive oil. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the eggs. Fill the aubergine shells with the mixture and place in the prepared dish. Sprinkle with the parmesan and bake until golden and bubbling. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. Serve cold.
Pizzaiola tartines
serves 4
2 firm ripe tomatoes, halved and seeded
2 spring onions, chopped
6 green olives, stoned and chopped
1tbs very finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
olive oil, for drizzling
4-6 slices of white bread
40-50g butter, at room temperature
250g buffalo milk mozzarella, thinly sliced
salt and pepper
fresh oregano, chopped, to garnish
Sprinkle the insides of the tomatoes with salt and place upside down on kitchen paper to drain for 5 minutes, then chop. Mix together the tomatoes, spring onions, olives and parsley in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Stir well to mix. Stamp out rounds from the bread with a biscuit cutter or glass and toast lightly on both sides. Spread the toast with butter and then with the tomato mixture. Top with a slice of mozzarella and sprinkle with oregano.
Roman saltimbocca
serves 4
100g prosciutto slices, halved
500g veal escalopes
8-10 fresh sage leaves
50g butter
100ml dry white wine
salt
This is the only main course in Italian cuisine whose recipe has been officially approved and laid down. This is the recipe that the panel of cooks agreed upon in Venice in 1962. Saltimbocca, incidentally, means jump into the mouth. Place a half-slice of prosciutto on each escalope, put a sage leaf on top and fasten with a cocktail stick. Melt the butter in a frying pan and cook the veal over a high heat on both sides until golden brown. Pour in the wine, add salt and cook until it has evaporated, then remove the cocktail sticks and serve.
Broccoli with anchovies
serves 4
1kg sprouting broccoli, cut into florets
80g salted anchovies, heads removed, cleaned, filleted, soaked in cold water for 10 mins and drained
3tbs olive oil
2 garlic cloves
½ fresh chilli, seeded and chopped
salt
Cook the broccoli in salted, boiling water for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, chop the anchovy fillets. Heat the olive oil in a pan, add the garlic and chilli and cook for 1 minute. Add the anchovies and cook, mashing with a wooden spoon until they have almost completely disintegrated. Remove and discard the garlic. Drain the broccoli, add to the pan, mix well and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes. Serve immediately.
Peas with pancetta
serves 4
1kg fresh peas, shelled
40g butter
100g smoked pancetta, cut into strips
salt
Cook the peas in salted, boiling water for 15-30 minutes until tender, then drain well. Melt the butter in a pan over a very low heat, add the pancetta and cook until golden brown and tender. Add the peas and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Transfer to a warm serving dish.
Cod steaks with olives
serves 4
4 cod steaks
plain flour, for dusting
2 tbs olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
400g plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
150g green or black olives, stoned
salt and pepper
Lightly dust the fish with flour. Heat the oil in a pan, add the onion and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the fish, 2 tablespoons of hot water and the olives and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer gently for about 30 minutes. Remove the lid and, if the juices are too runny, increase the heat to medium and cook until thickened. Transfer to a warm serving dish.
Langoustines with tomato
Italians differentiate between scampi, which are shorter and the longer scamponi. In Britain, their equivalents are langoustines, or you could use Dublin Bay prawns. Both should be eaten extremely fresh because their flesh deteriorates very quickly. When added to boiling water, allow 5 minutes from when the water returns to the boil. For cold, allow 3 minutes after it comes to the boil.
serves 4
50g butter
1 onion, finely chopped
300g tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cubed
1 tbs tomato purée
20 langoustines or Dublin Bay prawns, peeled
100ml double cream
salt and pepper
Melt the butter in a pan, add the onion and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, then add the tomatoes. Mix the tomato purée with 2 tablespoons warm water, stir into the pan and simmer for about 10 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a food processor and process to a paste, then return to the pan. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add the langoustines or prawns and cook, stirring constantly, for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the cream and cook until the sauce has thickened. Arrange on a warm serving dish and spoon the sauce over them.
Praline
serves 6
olive oil, for brushing
150g superfine sugar
60g blanched almonds, chopped
1 tbs sweet butter
½ tsp lemon juice
fresh bay leaves, to serve
Brush a marble slab or a biscuit sheet with oil. Melt the sugar with 1½ teaspoons of water in a heavy pan over medium-low heat. Stir in the almonds, add butter and lemon juice. Lower the heat and cook until golden brown. Remove from the heat and pour the mixture onto the oiled surface and spread out to 2 cm thick. Cut into diamonds and place each piece on a bay leaf.
Peaches with chocolate
serves 4
4 white peaches
400g tinned peaches in syrup
100g very dark chocolate
60ml double cream
60g confectioner's sugar
a handful of hazelnuts, chopped, to decorate
Blanch the peaches in boiling water for a few minutes, then drain and peel carefully. Set aside. Place the tinned peaches and their syrup in a food processor and purée. Transfer to a bowl and chill in the freezer for 1 hour. Place the chocolate, cream and sugar in a pan and heat gently until melted and smooth. Remove from the heat and let cool, stirring constantly. Remove the peach purée from the freezer when it starts to take on a granular consistency but before it becomes completely frozen. Cut the white peaches in half, remove the stones and arrange on top of the purée. Chill, then serve by pouring the cold sauce over the peaches. Decorate with the hazelnuts.
Tiramisu
serves 6
2 egg whites
4 egg yolks
150g icing sugar
400g mascarpone cheese
200g sponge fingers
175ml freshly brewed extra strong coffee, cooled
200g plain chocolate, grated
cocoa powder, for dusting
Stiffly whisk the egg whites in a grease-free bowl. Beat yolks with the sugar in another bowl until pale and fluffy. Fold in the mascarpone, then the egg whites. Make a layer of sponge fingers on the base of a deep, rectangular serving dish and brush them evenly with coffee. Cover with a layer of the mascarpone cream and sprinkle with a little grated chocolate, continue to layer, ending with mascarpone. Dust with cocoa and chill for about 3 hours.
Mascarpone dessert
serves 6
56g butter, softened
500g mascarpone cheese
325g caster sugar
a few drops vanilla extract
288g cornstarch
4 eggs
238g double cream
2 tsp lemon juice
Heat oven to 300°F. Grease a round mould. Beat butter and mascarpone in a bowl until mixed, add sugar, vanilla and cornstarch. Stir in eggs, add cream and lemon. Pour into prepared mould and bake for about 30 minutes until golden brown, then increase temperature to 475°F and bake for 10 minutes more. Turn out, cool and store in the fridge until ready to serve.
· Silver Spoon will be published by Phaidon on 20 October for £24.95 . To order a copy for £22.95, with free UK p&p, call the Observer Book Service on 0870 836 0885.
