Nigel Slater’s hot suppers for cold nights

At this time of year there's nothing like a steaming bowl of beans or pulses.
  
  


Early in the New Year I get the taste for Italian bean recipes, and while I prefer to soak dried beans overnight and boil them from scratch, I also used the canned version for quick suppers and snacks during the week. Either way they form the backbone of many frugal, cold-weather suppers.

Dhal

Every time I make this fragrant Indian dish, I make it differently. Sometimes I put ground chilli in, sometimes green chillies. Occasionally I use fresh mint with the coriander. It goes well with rice, but I have also been known to simply tuck in with a spoon.

Serves 2

yellow split peas - 200g
onion - 1
tomatoes - 2
garlic cloves - 3
small, hot red chillies - 2
ground turmeric - 2 tsp
salt and black pepper
to finish:
garlic cloves - 3
ground nut oil - 2 tbs
chopped coriander

Rinse the split peas in cold water. Peel and finely slice the onion. Chop the tomatoes. Peel and finely slice the garlic, seed and chop the chillies. Put the peas, onion, tomatoes, chilli, garlic, turmeric, salt and black pepper in with the peas and cover with just over a litre of water. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid then simmer for 15-20 minutes until the pulses are soft.

To finish, peel and finely slice the garlic, cook till golden and lightly crisp in a shallow pan with the oil, then stir into the dhal with a handful of chopped coriander leaves.

Lentils with winter cabbage

A light, cleansing side dish.

Serves 2

green or brown lentils - 6 tbs
small winter cabbage - half
red wine vinegar - 1 tbs
extra virgin olive oil -2 tbs

Rinse the lentils and cook them in deep boiling water, lightly salted, for about 20 minutes till they are tender, but retain some bite. While they are cooking, trim away any tough outer leaves from the cabbage. Put a pot of water on to boil for the cabbage.

Salt the cabbage cooking water, shred the cabbage with a large knife, then cook briefly until bright green, a matter of three or four minutes. Mix the vinegar and oil with a pinch of salt and black pepper. Drain the lentils and the cabbage, toss together with the dressing and eat immediately.

Smashed cannellini beans on crostini

A quickly put-together snack, made by blitzing canned cannellini beans with garlic and olive oil and spreading thickly on toast. It is essential to leave room for a small pool of your favourite olive oil to sit on top.

Serves 2-4 as a light snack

cannellini beans - 1 x 400g can
garlic - 2 cloves
olive oil - 2 tablespoons plus a little more
ciabatta or similar open-textured bread - 4 to 6 slices

Open the beans, drain them and put them into a small pan. Cover with fresh water and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for a few minutes, then drain. Tip the beans into a food processor and blitz with the garlic and a little salt, black pepper and olive oil. You want a smooth paste. Toast the bread on both sides. Spoon over some of the bean purée and scatter with sage leaves, a little olive oil and black pepper.

Flageolet with linguine and lemon

Beans and pasta are not new, but this way with lemon and basil leaves has a certain freshness to it that appeals. Immensely satisfying, it will lift the spirits, too.

Serves 2-3

cooked (or canned) flageolet beans - 125g
linguine - 200g
the juice of a large lemon
olive oil - 50ml
grated Parmesan - 75g
basil leaves - a handful
double cream - 100ml

Cook the linguine in lots of furiously boiling, generously salted water. It should take about eight minutes. Heat the cooked beans in a pan of simmering water.

While the pasta is cooking, put the lemon juice, olive oil, Parmesan and lightly torn basil leaves in a warm serving dish. Warm the cream in a milk saucepan and tip into the cheese and mix lightly. When the pasta is ready, drain thoroughly then toss with the warm sauce and the drained beans.

Haricot beans and chicken bake

Sometimes a substantial cold-weather dish is called for. This is such a recipe, the beans and mushrooms bound together with a creamy, cheesy sauce. Perfect for a frosty night.

Serves 4

dried haricot beans - 125g
olive oil - at least 3 tbs
boned chicken - 500g
medium-sized mushrooms - 400g
rosemary - 3 sprigs
garlic - 2 cloves
white wine - a wine glass
double cream - 225ml
Parmesan, finely grated - a handful

Soak the beans overnight in cold water. Drain and bring to the boil in fresh, unsalted water. Let the beans simmer for approximately 40 minutes, checking them now and again. How quickly they cook will depend on their age. Drain and set aside.

Set the oven at 190C/Gas 5. Warm two tablespoons of the olive oil in a shallow pan, add the chicken and let it colour on all sides. While the chicken is cooking, cut the mushrooms into quarters and remove the rosemary needles from the stems and chop finely. Peel and slice the garlic.

Remove the chicken to a plate and add the mushrooms to the pan, letting them colour on all sides, adding more oil if necessary. Stir in the chopped rosemary, the chopped garlic, salt and pepper, then the white wine.

Let the wine bubble for a couple of minutes, stirring to dissolve any crusty bits from the pan. Finally stir in the chicken and the cream. Check the seasoning.

Tip the mixture into a baking dish, scatter with grated Parmesan. Bake for 20-25 minutes till golden and bubbling. Serve in shallow bowls.

 

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