Overlooking this picturesque village, Fowey Hall's not one of the "family-friendly" hotels where ankle-biters overwhelm everything. This impressive manor house is suitable for breaks either with or without sprogs - but if you do happen to bring the little treasures, there's comprehensive provision for children of all ages.

In the grown-ups' dining room, head chef Glynn Wellington has assembled a commendably concise menu including some outstanding dishes using produce from the nearby Fowey River. A generous stack of mussels is soaked in a sauce of garlic, white wine and cream.

The roast shellfish starter sees scallops, oysters, mussels and cockles cooked simply with garlic, olive oil, lemon and parsley to great effect. Both the turbot and monkfish tails are expertly slow-roasted for juiciness and served simply without needless pretension.

Seafood aside, simplicity also prevails with the Cornish beef fillet: a silky beauty complemented with garlic fondant, spring greens and mushrooms or the roasted vegetable tian, brought to life with a tangy lump of Cornish feta and garden herbs.

Set three-course menu, £32.50