Imli
167-169 Wardour Street, W1 (Tel: 020-7287 4243)
Daily 12noon-11pm
A recent arrival in Soho, from the people behind upscale Mayfair Indian Tamarind, is an exercise in pared down stylish minimalism. Unfortunately, the portions have been pared down too - some called it Indian tapas, but cynical old me just calls it mean. Paprika batter-fried tilapia, from the "new traditions" section of the menu, is spongy in texture, a bit like wet blotting paper. Southern lamb curry has a beautiful perfume, made with fresh as can be spices. Chicken Haryali, with a green chilli and sauce, has some fire but the bird is a little gristly.
There's strip lighting and big street windows, which could do with a clean, though, on the subject of cleaning, the inter-course wiping of tables with a J-cloth is faintly repulsive. A buzzy, convivial atmosphere goes some way to mitigating the above.
High point Fig and ginger ice cream - so good we took some home
Low point Rasping sound of chair legs on slate floors
Capacity 80
Price per head £24
Wine list £12.95
Vegetarian 9/10
Service 9/10
Music Rap
Value for money 7.5/10
Style Hip canteen
Veeraswamy
Victory House, 99 Regent Street, W1 (Tel: 020-7734 1401)
Daily 12.30pm-2.15pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm (Sun 6pm)
The grande dame of Indian restaurants - and one of London's oldest restaurants - Veeraswamy's fortunes have declined in recent years, despite its takeover and relaunch five years ago by the Chutney Mary gang. Now, for its 80th birthday, Veeraswamy has relaunched again, and is much better. The décor has gone super-luxe, evoking a 1920s Maharaja's palace. There are handmade Moghul floral design carpets and acres of Indian black granite flecked with gold.
But what of the food, you ask. It satisfies but does not wow. Slow-cooked Nihari lamb is too conservatively spiced; it needs more oomph. And it needs to be hotter, as in temperature. Sea bream Paturi is steamed a couple of minutes too long, and comes with a punchy chilli and mustard sauce. Breads, rice, chutneys and other add-ons are carefully made while service is kind and assured.
High point Beautiful new interior
Low point Dishes need more attention to timing
Capacity 100
Price per head £50
Wine list £16.25
Vegetarian 7.5/10
Service 8/10
Music Classical Indian
Value for money 8/10
Style Ra-ra Raj
Indian Zing
236 King Street, W6 (Tel: 020-8748 5959)
Daily 12noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-10pm
This is not a reconstructed Indian restaurant, but a very well thought-out one, from Manoj Vasaikar - an ex Veeraswamy chef - who opened the delicious Just India in Putney. There's an appealing cohesion to his dishes - a lamb dhansak with pumpkin, aubergine and tamarind, for instance, which feels absolutely right, and a cracking fish curry. Everything here is nicely understated: the welcome is warm but not gushing, china and glass sparkle, and the bill is extremely fair.
High point Serious Indian food without gimmickry
Low point Can feel a little draughty (but spring is on the way)
Capacity 60
Price per head £40
Wine list £12
Vegetarian 7/10
Service 9/10
Music None
Value for money 10/10
Style Indian indie
