When a film prop buyer and a bar designer take over a pub, you'd expect fairly spectacular results. William IV is a gastropub so next generation that it defines itself as a "public house", with nary a marinated tuna steak or a chalkboard in sight, just very simple, very good, very fairly priced food of the kind pubs should always have served but never did - think homemade pork pie with piccalilli, lamb cutlets with roast tomatoes, chicken livers and bacon on toast, or (for vegetarians) a rich, earthy soup of mushrooms, chestnuts and roast garlic.

You can eat upstairs in the geography room, kitted out in a Victorian schoolroom vein with fossils, butterflies, maps and globes, or alternatively downstairs in the pub proper, where elegantly wasted cream furnishings are topped off with an open fire, an old joanna and, of course, ye traditional pub cat.

Dishes £2-£7, average spend (excluding wine), £12