Cornwall's first whisper of summer came so unexpectedly last weekend that it was a mixed blessing for the Porthminster Cafe in St Ives. Young Australian head chef Michael Smith, a rising star in these parts, is almost lamenting the blue sky and turquoise sea lapping the sand on which his restaurant sits. "The weather has been crap for the last eight weeks and then today, on our very first day of the season, this," he says, squinting into the sun as he grabs a 10-minute break in his 17-hour shift.
No one else seems to mind the sunshine, though. Kids are playing on the Blue Flag beach, and up in the restaurant the grown-ups are having just as much fun. When I pass by in the morning, the decking area is already full of customers enjoying coffee and cake; when I come back at lunchtime, the place has the hum of a stylish seaside restaurant in full summer swing.
The all-white interior is softened by St Ives' magical light, which has attracted artists since the 19th century. The abstract paintings on the walls are in striking primary colours, as are the beach buckets used to chill the wine.
Smith took over the kitchen of this picture-perfect restaurant four summers ago and has won a reputation for his seafood menu, adding a modern Aussie twist to the Mediterranean menu.
Dishes such as crab linguine with garlic, chilli and lemon, and crispy chilli squid with Thai salad and citrus white miso point to Smith's Mod Oz Fusion background. But he can also do the classics. My bouillabaisse, crammed with tiger prawns, scallops and red snapper, was delicious.
Smith is enthused about the variety and freshness of Cornish seafood: "It comes off the boat right here in St Ives, or just down the coast in the morning, and we serve it up for lunch a few hours later. I've never had that anywhere else." The local Helford oysters I had to start were the best I've ever tasted.
The combination of Smith's laid-back charm and Porthminster's beach location led the Discovery Channel to shoot the Beach Cafe, a light-hearted, fly-on-the-wall series following the fortunes of a chef over the summer.
Of course it was another TV chef, Rick Stein, who put Cornwall on the food map, but the media interest that surrounds "Padstein" may well be overshadowed when Jamie Oliver opens a branch of Fifteen in Watergate Bay just outside Newquay next month. It will also add to Cornwall's reputation as a foodie haven and "serious" weekend destination.
And now accommodation is playing catch-up with the restaurants. I stayed at the Boskerris Hotel overlooking Carbis Bay, a 20-minute walk along Cornwall's stunning Coastal Path from the Porthminster Café, and it has the same cool airy feel as the restaurant. The rooms and lounge/bar (as well as the decking) have sea views and are done out in neutral browns and subtle pastels, which come alive when the sun shines.
At the Tate St Ives they call the hue of the local sky "Mediterranean light", and last weekend there was weather to match. The town's five beautiful beaches and array of seafood, though, are better than anything you'll find in the Med, whatever the weather.
· Porthminster Cafe (01736 795352, porthminstercafe.co.uk). Beach Cafe is on the Travel & Living channel, 9pm Mondays. Boskerris Hotel (01736 795295, boskerrishotel.co.uk), doubles from £100 B&B. Air Southwest (08702 418202, airsouthwest.com) flies to Newquay from Bristol and Cardiff from £19 one way inc tax, and from Gatwick, Leeds-Bradford and Manchester from £29. Hertz (08708 448844, hertz.co.uk) offers car hire from Newquay airport from £78 per weekend, £170 per week. Further information: visitbritain.com
