Ireland is rightly renowned for the quality of its beef and lamb. Its soda bread and farmhouse cheeses are equally celebrated. Even the country's famously floury potatoes are revered in certain circles.
Yet one of the highlights of any culinary visit to the Republic remains the excellence and freshness of its seafood. Think of gastronomic Ireland and you picture smoked wild Atlantic salmon, plump native oysters, seared scallops, Dublin Bay prawns, and grilled black sole - all delivered from boat to plate in hours, not days.
Prices are for a three-course meal for two including wine but not service.
Cavistons Seafood Restaurant, 59 Glasthule Road, Sandycove (00 353 1 280 9245, cavistons.com). It's in a south Dublin suburb and only open for lunch, Tuesday to Saturday. You have to book way ahead for one of three sittings - noon, 1.30pm and 3pm - in a small, simple room of just 26 covers. Yet a superb menu that changes every two days (which might include a dish such as char-grilled marinated swordfish with a melon chilli chutney), reasonable prices and great service make Cavistons the best fish restaurant in Ireland. €74.
Kealys Seafood Bar, The Harbour, Greencastle, Co Donegal (+74 938 1010, kealys@iol.ie). Chef-patron James Kealy's pub-restaurant by a fishing port on the glorious Inishowen peninsula offers cooking almost as good as the long views over Lough Foyle. Unfussy and understated dishes include baked fillet of hake on braised fennel with a tomato and saffron butter sauce. Short but good wine list, too. €76.
Chez Youen, The Pier, Baltimore, Co Cork (+28 20136). Frenchman Youen Jacob came to south-west Ireland 30 years ago, fell in love with the scenery and a local girl, and opened his friendly, relaxed Breton-style restaurant shortly after. Specialities include poached lobster with lemon butter and a bounteous local shellfish platter served simply and in the shell. €78.
Moran's Oyster Cottage, The Weir, Kilcolgan, Co Galway (+91 796113, moransoystercottage.com). Located in a picturesque thatched cottage by a weir on the edge of Galway Bay, Moran's pub is peerless for Guinness and oysters. Since 1760, generations of Morans have served the world-class molluscs, mostly from neighbouring Clarinbridge, a village that's home to an oyster festival every September. Fine mussels, smoked salmon and home-made brown bread, too. €80.
Doyle's Seafood Restaurant, John Street, Dingle, Co Kerry (+66 915 1174, doylesofdingle.com). Compact yet top-quality fish restaurant in a historic former shop and pub with original stone walls, flagstone floors and a cast-iron range. Dishes include hot oysters with smoked Gubbeen cheese and a traditional fish pie of salmon, smoked haddock and cod. Won Best Fish Restaurant in the 2005 Irish Restaurant Awards. €97.
Philip Watson
Further info: irelandsbluebook.com.
