Despite losing its Michelin Bib Gourmand in January, suits from nearby businesses keep Metro packed at lunch and evenings. The design is modern and bright, but smoke and noise leak from the bar to the adjacent restaurant. Food is a combination of modern standbys with the odd retro nod such as the surf and turf combo of fillet steak and king prawns, which is a mixed bag.

A serviceable Caesar salad starter is let down by a bland dressing, though the Thai fishcakes (more fishballs, really) have a keen, attacking spice and are matched with a sweet but uncloying chilli dipping sauce. Paella isn't a giveaway at £13.50 but has a healthy ratio of lightly flavoured rice to prawns, chorizo, squid and mussels, but the rack of lamb is scrawny and short on both flavour and meat.

Price per head £25