The appointment of Aiden Byrne as executive chef has brought gastronomic credibility to Danesfield House. Byrne, an alumnus of Tom Aikens, Pied à Terre and Dublin's Peacock Alley, was at 22 the youngest recipient of a Michelin star.

His style, which meshes classical technique with crackling innovation, makes this country house hotel worthy of a foodie pilgrimage. Roasted scallops come with truffle risotto - white chocolate adds a creaminess and underscores the sweet shellfish. Buttery confit cod with dark liquorice sauce is a reworking of the classic combo of seafood with fennel or pastis. Duck tongues and baby squid supply toothsome texture.

A dessert dedicated to apple - from terrine to deep-fried to pureed - showcases a Rothko-like flair for shades of a single flavour.

Price per head £49