Even his name is fusion. Ignatius Chan presides over a restaurant that serves the subtlest, most satisfying east/west cuisine I've ever eaten. Iggy's resides in a far corner of the third floor of that paeon to 1980s glam, Singapore's Regent Hotel. After a reception area with the goldest chandeliers and campest flower arrangements east of Versailles, Iggy's dark wood and matter-of-fact marble is cool balm. There are only 28 seats, some around the kitchen bar, and no choice on the daily changing menu.

I've eaten lots of fusion food, most of it causing confusion. Jackdaw-like, chefs from both east and west take what's shiny from other cultures, mixing together uncertain (or simply unwise) ingredients and unpractised techniques in contrived attempts at modish glamour. Iggy, with his (German) chef Dorin Schuster, keeps it simple: they buy local ingredients at their freshest and best, and import the rest. This includes wines, with Iggy travelling to France three times a year to taste and buy mostly burgundies and bordeaux.

A white burgundy, Domaine Leflaive 2000, accompanied lunch last week. Crisp, supple and citrus scented, it showed its biodynamic cultivation by remaining fresh and energetic throughout the meal. And what a meal it was. An amuse bouche of sesame tofu under soft pumpkin puree tantalised the palate prettily. The first dish was described as Egg Royale, and was Iggy's take on Japanese chowamushi. A savoury custard given life by citrus scented ponzu, it was egg fit for a sun king. Next, a fat scallop, served sashimi with a squiggle of foie gras puree and yuzu - an oriental citrus that hints at tangerine and lime. My notes rave about this very superior surf and turf.

Every Singaporean Chinese restaurant serves fish maw; at Iggy's it comes under the most sensitive of Parmesan crusts and in a champagne nage with concasse of tomato and avruga (mock caviar) speckles and is a triumph. Cappellini follow, the strands of Dorin's fresh pasta licked with scampi-infused oil and punctuated by commas of tiny Sakura prawns. Another Singaporean street staple is soon hock, the freshwater fish known also as marbled goby. Ours is tempura'd, with a sauce of Meaux mustard, watercress and soy/tarragon butter. The effect is savoury, rich, a thoroughly successful marriage of east and west.

There's a ridiculously light souffle to finish, of fresh pineapple and Malibu, with milky coconut ice cream. Lunches cost a bargain £18, dinners £55 plus wine. Service is impeccably unobtrusive. Singapore is very humid, a notorious barrier to producing good crusty bread, but Iggy's manages even this trick, and my lunch is accompanied by perfect bread rolls like you'd eat in Beaune or Bordeaux. East is east, I note, but west is yeast.

· Iggy's, The Regent Singapore, Level 3, 1 Cuscaden Rd (0065 6732 2234). Tailor Made Travel (0845 4568050, tailor-made.co.uk) offers four nights at the Shangri La Rasa Sentosa in Singapore, based on twin share from £699pp. The price includes return flights with Emirates and transfers. The Rasa Sentosa enjoys Singapore's only sandy beach.