Why now? Proposed direct flights from Stansted have been postponed till later this year - but why put off seeing the city they call Little Vienna until everyone else goes?

Getting there Transylvania Uncovered (0845 3000247, beyondtheforest.com) will fix you up a package with good flight connections via Budapest or Vienna.

Where to stay Probably the best hotel is the small boutique four-star Hotel Residenta within easy walking distance of the centre. Or check out Ceausescu's former villa, Villa International, complete with pool in the foyer. You can even book his room. Two-night breaks with Transylvania Uncovered cost £349 and £316 B&B per person respectively, including flights.

Where to eat You'll struggle to spend £20 a head including wine. Maestro, Strada Cluj 26, for meaty soups, stuffed cabbage and paprika pork. Don't miss art nouveau cafe Lloyd, on the corner of Piata Victoriei, inspired by Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

What to buy Folkloric wool rugs and wallhangings, hand-woven throws, and painted eggs, from the shops on Piata Victoriei or the Bega shopping centre.