1. Ballachulish House
Ballachulish, Argyll
Historic laird's house that has been turned into a great hotel with a golf course at the door. Even if you hate golf, it's a must visit for its cuisine. Chef Allan Donald has won the place a Michelin star, which is unusual enough; rarer still is the appointment of his wife, Eileen Donald, as sous chef. Most diners spend no time wondering about relationships in the kitchen, though. Why should they, when the night's entertainment often includes live music by a young piper from the village, followed by a fantastic five-course dinner? The emphasis is on Scottish produce here, witness tartlet of peat-smoked fish crusted with Mull cheddar rarebit, followed maybe by consommeé of West Highland game en croute, a granité of homegrown apples, rack of Skye lamb with a spinach and wild mushroom farce and parfait of Blairgowrie berries with heather honey anglais.
2. Halcyon
Peebles, Peebleshire
A breath of fresh air in the Borders since early 2004, Halcyon has been winning notice for its tartan-free, modern dining . Co-proprietor Ally McGrath delivers daring combinations of fashionable ingredients, starting with amuse-bouches such as a fried haggis ball, cappuccino of tomato soup and langoustine in cucumber jelly. With 20 covers, the atmosphere is intimate.
3. The Peat Inn
Cupar, Fife
This unremarkable whitewashed crossroads inn was put on the map decades ago by David Wilson and has become a byword for seasonal cooking drawing on local ingredients. It has just been taken over by Geoffrey Smeddle (ex étain in Glasgow), a sure hand at the stove who shares Wilson's dedication to tracking down the best small-scale produce. No trappings of haute cuisine, just excellent, modern cooking and an impressive wine list of over 400 bins. Try roasted East Neuk monkfish with samphire, tomato confit and saffron dressing; or wood pigeon with sweet and sour beetroot .
4. The Seafood Restaurant
St Andrews, Fife
Sister to the original Seafood Restaurant, a converted pub in the fishing village of St Monans, this makes a modern architectural contrast with the rest of St Andrews. It is a glass cube, jutting out over the rocks in a dramatic way, with the waves below and the seagulls above. The most popular starter here is half a dozen Kilbrandon oysters with a mango-and-chilli salsa and a shot glass of bloody Mary. Stroll along the beach afterwards to watch kites and windsurfers.
5. Sixty Three Tay Street
Perth, Perthshire
Perth is the gastronomic heart of Scotland, supported by first-rate local produce. Run by Jeremy and Shona Wares, the dining room is small, bright and modern, with a backdrop of the river Tay and the Kinnoull Hills beyond. Haunch of venison might come with braised red cabbage, potato and olive cake and red-wine jus; seared Skye scallops with an oyster beignet, red-wine risotto and herb oil.
Ballachulish House , 01855 811266
Halcyon, 39 Eastgate, Peebles, Peebleshire, 01721 725100
The Peat Inn, 01334 840206
The Seafood Restaurant, The Scores, St Andrews, Fife, 01334 479475
63 Tay St, Perth, 01738 441451
