1. Geisha
Nottingham
Geisha combines modern Asian food with a cocktail-and-club scene. It's loud and dim but tantalising: waitresses in corsets, mosaics and walls covered in blossoms. The food is pretty and delicious.
2. Jin Kichi
London
Great little neighbourhood place on two floors, with charming staff (if you get to know them!). Many people say the smell reminds them of the robotayaki stores in Tokyo and it's the grilled skewers that you should go for: quails eggs, chicken livers and duck are among the best.
3. Sushi Say
London
The sushi rice here is spot-on; the fish is perfect. Try the ponzu-dressed dishes, or just vacuum up as many sushi as you can afford. Beware the bravely offered natto, which is both smelly and slimy, and if you want to sit Japanese-style at the back, you'll have to take your shoes off, so wear clean socks.
4. Edamamé
Oxford
When Peter and Mieko Galpin first opened this homely Japanese restaurant, most people had never heard of edamame (fresh green soy beans served with sea salt), let alone how to eat them. There are no reservations and opening times are restricted, so plan ahead: Thursday is sushi night, for example, and you need to get there early. Lunch is cheap and accessible - ramen noodles with pork or chicken in a soy broth, say. Dinner is available on Friday and Saturday only so it's something to look forward to.
5. Okinami
Hove
This is a wonderful outpost of Japan on the south coast. Nothing is over-complicated - the main reason this is well thought-of is because it exemplifies what you can do with good quality, fresh ingredients. There are lots of deep-fried items, such as pork, squid and tofu. Seaweed salad is always good; charcoal-grilled eel in teriyaki sauce is lovely and, just for fun, try tempura ice cream with blackcurrant-and-apple sauce. If you can't get down to Hove, visit the shop in central Brighton; they have a deli counter where you can take out bento boxes.
Geisha, 3 The Broadway, Lace Market, Nottingham, 01159 598344
Jin Kichi, 73 Heath Street, Hampstead NW3, 020 7794 6158
Sushi Say, 33b Walm Lane, London NW2, 020 8459 2971
Edamamé, 15 Holywell Street, Oxford, 01865 246916
Okinami, 208 Church Road, Hove, East Sussex, 01273 773777
