Why now? Because the heat has cooled and the latest Style City Athens guide is just out detailing a new wave of modern restaurants and bars.

Getting there: British Airways (ba.com) from Heathrow from £129rtn inc tax.

Where to stay: South of the city at the Margi (0030 210 896 2061, themargi.gr) on the Athenian Riviera, ethnic style with a sea view - the sea is warm up until the end of October - and representing the best value on the Riviera at €135.

Where to eat: Ithaki, overlooking Vouliagmeni bay and the vast Astir Palace resort hotel, is one of the best fish restaurants in the city. Try lobster-stuffed sole and langoustines in a light cognac sauce or do as the locals do and go for simple grilled fish with olive oil and lemon.

What to buy: Local delicacies - virgin olive oil, honey from Kythira, cheese, traditional spirits, sweets and hand-made pasta - from To Bakaliko in Glyfada, which sells produce from small suppliers all over Greece.

· Style City Athens is published by Thames & Hudson, £14.95.