The white tiled walls and wipe-clean tables - not to mention the open kitchen and slabs of fresh fish on the frontage - suggest your friendly neighbourhood pie and mash shop. But the chandeliers hanging from the ceiling point out that this is, instead, your friendly neighbourhood champagne and oyster bar.
And very friendly it is too. When we were there, the place was buzzing with busy chatter and giggly little birthday celebrations (they don't take reservations here, so just turn up and take your chance). As for the service, it was prompt, attentive and incredibly kind, particularly in the face of two oyster-virgins who were eager to taste - if slightly scared to swallow - the famed aphrodisiac.
There are currently eight different preparations of oyster served at Riddle & Finns, both hot and cold, and our plate of mixed oysters allowed us to sample all of them. Incidentally, both wine and champagne are available by the glass or bottle, but if you're going to start with the oysters, I'd advise at least a glass of the bubbly stuff.
The preparations range from the simplicity of a plain little guy with just a dash of lemon and tabasco (I had to build up to that one, I admit - but it was worth it in the end), to the complex mix of flavours in the wasabi and soy or pickled cucumber and smoked bacon toppings. My companion, meanwhile, confirmed that the subtle flavours of his "plain and simple" white chowder had warmed him up for the main course.
There's a strong emphasis on the sourcing and freshness of ingredients at Riddle & Finns - just like at the owners' sister restaurant on the beach, the ever-popular Due South - and you can taste it too. But it is still worth checking out the specials board, advertising the best of the day's catch.
Moonfish was the star attraction the day we ate: a fish native to the waters off New Zealand. This fact initially confused me (which day, exactly, was this the catch of, I asked), but it turned out that it had been netted off the south coast of England: our waiter was even able to show me a camera phone picture of the hapless fish lying on the fishmonger's slab that morning: an informative, if slightly over-familiar gesture. They hadn't named him, luckily.
The "crab fruits de mer" platter being devoured at the next table looked delicious, but I honestly didn't think we could have done it justice - and what with its costing £40 and constituting a veritable fish mountain, there was a lot of justice to be done.
A mouth that tastes of fish for the rest of the evening can hardly be an aphrodisiac in anyone's mind - apart from, possibly, a cat's - so it was a relief to find a good selection of crisp, cleansing desserts on offer. And after a sharp lemon tart between us, we wandered down for a walk by the sea. Feeling that we were probably, by that stage, composed of about 75% marine life, it seemed churlish not to at least pop down and say hello ...
· Riddle & Finns, 12b Meeting House Lane riddleandfinns.co.uk; 01273 323 008
Rock Oysters £1.90 each/ £10 for 6. Native (in season) £2.30 /£12 for 6. Starters from £5.50. Main from from £10. Platters (to share): £40 crab, £50 oyster
