Derek Bulmer 

Old romantics: restaurants for Valentine’s

J Sheekey, London | The Bell, Sapperton, Gloucestshire | The Pheasant, Huntingdon | Inn at Whitewell, Lancashire | Alba, Cornwall
  
  


J Sheekey, London

For over 100 years the great and the good have been attracted by J Sheekey's very essence of Englishness and theatricality and their photos adorn the wood panelled walls. The welcome, though, is just as warm for those unburdened by celebrity, the service is reliably friendly and the atmosphere always relaxed and intimate. Shellfish and seafood are the specialities.

020-7240 2565, j-sheekey.co.uk.

The Bell, Sapperton, Gloucestshire

The Bell proves that it's possible to modernise an existing pub while retaining that cosy, local feel. Yes, there are candles, log fires and a wood burning range but it's the staff and service that create such a warm atmosphere. A walk through the surrounding woods will set you up for the fortifying fare which you can enjoy in one of several adjoining rooms. West Country specialities are supplemented by daily specials. A snug winter retreat, it's equally charming in summer, thanks to the delightful courtyard and garden.

01285 760298, foodatthebell.co.uk

The Pheasant, Huntingdon

Hidden in a sleepy hamlet, this thatched country inn with three distinct dining areas is a great choice for an intimate meal. Sit in the main bar, with its open fire and cosy sofas or opt instead for the more formal and elegant dining rooms with their hunting print walls, wooden floors and beams. Wherever you choose to sit, you will find a wide choice of modern dishes, cooked using regional produce where possible, accompanied by an extremely well compiled wine list.

01832 710241, huntsbridge.co.uk.

Inn at Whitewell, Lancashire

An extended manor house dating from the 14th century is today one of Lancashire's most celebrated inns. Its delightful location in the Forest of Bowland and on the banks of the River Hodder is hard to beat. The lovely faded bar full of curios is wonderfully relaxed and there are numerous squashy sofas scattered around the place. The dining room is prettily dressed and provides a slightly more formal setting. It's family owned and run with an endearing eccentricity which can surface at the unlikeliest moment.

01200 448222, innatwhitewell.com.

Alba, Cornwall

Alba is a modern seafood restaurant within a converted lifeboat house on a wharf. Spread over two floors - ask for a window table on the higher floor for the best views of the harbour - it boasts a bright, fresh feel and it's not too noisy and not too quiet. The seafood is deftly prepared, in a light and modern style. Those more interested in their plate than their partner would agree with George Bernard Shaw: "There is no love sincerer than the love of food".

01736 797222, thealbarestaurant.com.

· Derek Bulmer, editor of the Michelin Guide to Great Britain and Ireland 2007. The first Michelin Guide to London was published this week

 

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