The Bell At Sapperton

The trend for "designer pubs" in the Cotswolds probably began a decade or so ago with Barnsley's insufferably cute Village Pub. With a thumping 80 covers, The Bell is arguably more restaurant than pub, preferring to call itself a "dining pub", but it still offers locally-brewed Uley and (local-ish) Butcombe beers and attracts a good few drinkers, locals and horse riders as well as foodies. There's also plenty of space to admire a handsome interior created by owners Paul Davidson and Patricia Le Jeune.

West Country and Welsh Borders produce predominates in a thoughtfully-assembled menu; more hearty than fussy. Try the braised Gloucester Old Spot belly of pork, seared purebred Hereford sirloin steak or lamb shank from the Forest of Dean or choose from a daily selection of fresh fish. Coming from Cornwall, it could include grilled sardines with a warm potato salad or poached hake in a crayfish sauce.
John Mitchell

· Nr Cirencester, Gloucs (Tel: 01285-760298) price per head £30

Sumosan
London

Sumosan has garnered a reputation as something of a nouveau Nobu, attracting its share of top drawer celebs and buzzy, young trust-funders. It's not much to look at - literally, as the design is hyper neutral, pleasing but impossible to describe the next day. Any Japanese restaurant is judged by the quality of its sashimi and sushi, and Sumosan doesn't disappoint - the fish is without doubt first class.

There are the traditional combinations and the more over the top concoctions such as the Albermarle roll of chopped salmon, seaweed tempura, avocado, mayonnaise, and flying fish roe on the outside. Tasty indeed, but the fish doesn't need that kind of help. The mains also shine when at their most simple: a succulent Chilean sea bass and that old standby, black cod with miso, rate highly. Unfortunately, the service was too indifferent for these prices.
Martin Skegg

· 26 Albemarle Street, W1 (Tel: 020-7495 5999) price per head £45

Shimo
London

The tranquil atmosphere at this newly opened restaurant, from manager and sommelier John Iglesias and sushi chef Chen Dong, dispels all fears of rowdy City lunches. East successfully mixes with west here, where the a la carte menu is conservative and familiar: grilled salmon, beef teriyaki and black cod with miso line up among the usual suspects. But the cooking brings these dishes to life. A simple starter of gyoza has the dumplings barely charred, nicely caramelised and fired with ginger and herbs.

Mixed tempura - of prawn, yam, aubergine and pepper - has that fresh, ethereal quality of the dish at its best. The venue's greatest draw is its raw fish, particularly black sea bream, fatty tuna and crisply eel. Desserts from Claudio Salerno, previously at the Michelin starred La Terrazza in Rome, incorporate European classics with finesse: tiramisu is a very good, curiously fitting finish.
Karina Mantavia

· 17-18 Tooks Court, EC4 (Tel: 020-7404 1818) price per head £25