Why now?
For cinemas with stars in the sky as well as on the screen at one of the city's 60 or so outdoor cinemas. In summer, Athenians go back to their classical roots and watch their drama al fresco at places such as Athinaia (Haritos, 50, Kolonaki, tickets €7) or rooftop Cine Paris (Kidathinaion 22, Plaka, tickets €7) where, if the film gets dull, you can stare at the Acropolis instead.

Getting there
British Airways (ba.com) flies from Heathrow and easyJet (easyjet.com) from Gatwick and Stansted.

Where to stay
Continuing the open-air theme, the Hera Hotel (herahotel.gr; doubles €100-135) has a rooftop bar and restaurant and some rooms have views of the Acropolis. A funky new addition is the Baby Grand hotel (classicalhotels.com), where the reception desk is installed in a Mini Cooper and the 'graffiti rooms' are covered in loud cartoon images. Rooms from €150.

Where to eat
Take the funicular from Ploutarchou St to Orizontes (+30 2107227065), 1,000ft up Lycabettus Hill. The prices aren't as steep as the cable climb, and on a clear day you can see the Parthenon and ships docking at Piraeus.

What to buy
Korres natural cosmetics. The brand is famous worldwide now but it all started at its small homeopathic pharmacy in Athens (8 Ivikou, Pagkrati).