Rebecca Seal 

What the chefs dish up on holiday (part 2)

Oliver Peyton
  
  


Oliver Peyton

My favourite summer dishes:Pimm's lollies and layered jelly

In the Nineties, Oliver Peyton was the king of the bar scene (Atlantic Bar and Mash in London and Manchester). These days, he is taking good food to museums, galleries and parks. Peyton runs the restaurants at the National Gallery, the Wallace Collection and Inn the Park, St James's Park. This summer he will be 'on a Cornish beach with my kids'.

Pimm's lollipops

A quintessentially British summer treat packed full of refreshing fruit and with the added kick of Pimm's - we make these whenever we have friends over - they are real ice breakers in the truest sense. Keep these out of reach of the kids!

Makes 8

280ml Pimm's No1
800ml organic Belvoir lemonade
2 leaves mint, finely chopped
80g Cox's apples, cut into small dice
80g William pears, cut into small dice
80g cucumber, cut into small dice

Mix together all the ingredients. Pour into the lollipop moulds and place in the freezer. As the mixture begins to freeze, give it an occasional stir so that the fruit becomes suspended in the ice.

Traffic light jellies

This dessert is both delicious and stunning with its green, red and white jelly. Serve with good local vanilla ice cream. Jelly and ice cream, strawberries and basil: this is my idea of heaven on an English summer's day.

Serves 4

For the strawberry jelly:

100g sliced strawberries
100g caster sugar
330ml water
1⁄2 lemon, juiced
21⁄2 leaves of gelatine, soaked

For the basil jelly:

100g fresh basil
200ml water
30g caster sugar
21⁄2 leaves of gelatine, soaked

For the vanilla jelly (pannacotta):

330ml double cream
50g sugar
1 vanilla pod
11⁄2 gelatine leaves, soaked

Put the strawberries and sugar into a large bowl, cover with the water, squeeze in the lemon juice and cover with clingfilm. Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water and the strawberries will break down and infuse the water to make a lovely and delicious 'strawberry nectar'. Stir in the gelatine.

To make the basil jelly, cook the basil leaves in a large pan of salted boiling water, until soft, then squeeze out and put in a blender with the sugar. Blend to a smooth paste and then add the water. Check for sweetness then add the gelatine to the basil syrup.

To make the vanilla jelly (pannacotta) bring the cream up to a fairly high heat, together with the sugar and vanilla pod, then take off the heat and add the soaked gelatine. Pass through a sieve.

To make a layered jelly using all three, use a glass or plastic mould, and pour in 1cm of the vanilla jelly, or pannacotta, leave to set in the fridge for a couple of hours. Then add 1cm of the strawberry jelly. Leave to set again, and then finally add 1cm of the basil jelly. You now have a traffic-light effect three-layered jelly. Serve with ice cream if you wish.

Loyd Grossman

My favourite summer dishes: Lobster roll

Loyd Grossman - now famed for and enriched by his sauces - grew up in a Massachusetts seaside town with no less than eight yacht clubs, so knows exactly how to spend the perfect summer.

Lobster roll

This dates back to my New England childhood. It sounds luxurious, but was - and in some places still is - a casual (and often surprisingly cheap) snack to be eaten on the beach.

Serves one

1 x 500g lobster, cooked and shelled, and meat chopped into 3cm pieces
3 sticks celery, finely chopped
mayonnaise
lemon juice to taste
salt and pepper
1 hotdog bun

The method is very straightforward. Make some lobster salad by mixing cold cooked lobster in bite-sized chunks (with as much of the sweeter meat from the claws as possible) with some finely chopped celery, mayonnaise, a little lemon juice and salt and pepper and fill a toasted buttered hot dog bun with it.

This dish is best accompanied by a packet of crisps. And better still, a beach.

Giorgio Locatelli

My favourite summer dishes: Tuna salad and lemon tart

Giorgio Locatelli of Michelin-starred Locanda Locatelli, comes from a family of committed foodies in Lombardy on the shores of Lake Comabbio - when he goes home in the summer, his wife says that it takes over an hour to walk through the village, as ex-girlfriends call hello from every window.

Tuna salad with borlotti beans and red onion

This is good when fresh borlotti beans are in season, from June to September, otherwise use good dried ones. You can cook the beans well in advance as they'll keep in their cooking water in the fridge for 4-5 days, but don't put your fingers into the water or you'll introduce bacteria.

When the beans become cold, they harden a little, so take them out of the fridge an hour or so before using, or warm up the pan, and they will soften again.

Serves 4

For Giorgio's vinaigrette:

(makes about 375ml): 1⁄2 tsp sea salt
3 tbs red-wine vinegar
300ml extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbs water

For the salad:

450g fresh borlotti beans (around 200g shelled) or 100g dried borlotti beans (soaked in water for 24 hours, changing the water every 5-6 hours if you can)
1 tbs extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 celery stalk, chopped
2 garlic cloves, unpeeled
bunch of sage
1 red onion
about 500ml vegetable oil for frying
300g fresh tuna, cut into 16 cubes (about 5x5x5cm)
4 bunches of rocket
salt and pepper

To make the vinaigrette, put the salt into a bowl, add the vinegar and leave for one minute so that the salt dissolves. Whisk in the olive oil and the water until the vinaigrette emulsifies and thickens. Pour into the bottle, seal and store in the fridge, where it will keep for up to 6 months. It will separate so before you use it, just shake the bottle.

Meanwhile, put the beans in a large pan with plenty of water, plus the olive oil, celery, garlic and sage (don't add salt or the beans will toughen). Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 45 minutes (try one - they are cooked when the skin, and not just the bean inside, feels soft in the mouth). At this point, you can add salt to taste, then leave the beans to cool in their cooking liquid.

Slice the red onion into very thin rings. Rinse under cold running water to remove some of the sharpness, then put them in a bowl with some ice. Take out 2 tablepoons of the beans and pulse to a purée in a food processor. Keep to one side.

Heat the vegetable oil in a deep fat fryer or a deep saucepan (no more than a third full) to about 180C. Season the tuna, then put about 3-4 cubes at a time on a spider or in a fine sieve. Dip them into the oil and cook for about a minute, moving the cubes around, until the outside of the tuna turns crisp but the inside stays rose-coloured. Remove and drain on kitchen paper, then put in the next batch and continue until all the tuna is cooked.

Season the rocket with salt and dress with the vinaigrette. Squeeze the red onion rings to remove any excess water and mix with the rocket. Finally, remove the beans from their cooking water with a slotted spoon and mix with the rocket and onions. Season to taste.

Spoon the bean purée onto 4 serving plates, then arrange the rocket, onion and bean mixture on top, with the tuna on top of that. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.

Lemon and mascarpone tart

Because the lemon and mascarpone mixture for this is quite liquid when it is first mixed, we completely cook the pastry case first, then turn the oven down, so that the topping can set without the pastry cooking further.

Serves 6-8

For the pastry:

112g butter
75g icing sugar, plus extra for dusting
1 egg
225g flour
2 egg yolks, beaten

For the filling:

300g mascarpone cheese
50ml whipping cream
50ml milk
100ml lemon juice
100g caster sugar
120g egg yolks

To make the pastry, preheat the oven to 170C/gas 3. Put the butter into a food mixer with a paddle and mix until soft. Add the sugar and continue to mix until the mixture turns pale. Add the 1 whole egg, and when it is incorporated, add the flour. Continue to mix until all the flour is incorporated. Roll out the pastry and use to line a 28cm non-stick tart tin. Line with ovenproof clingfilm (rather than baking paper or everyday clingfilm), fill with rice or dried beans and bake blind for 4 minutes. Take out the weights and clingfilm and cook for around 10-12 minutes until golden, which is the colour you want it to be at the end.

Remove from the oven, brush the pastry all over with the beaten egg yolks and return to the oven for another 2 minutes. This forms a skin, so that even if there are tiny holes in the pastry, the topping won't seep through and burn.

Turn the oven down to 110C/ gas 1⁄4. The pastry is now cooked, so all you need to do is set the topping.

To make the filling, mix together the mascarpone, cream, milk, lemon juice and sugar in a bowl. Whisk the eggs yolks separately, then add to the mascarpone mixture and incorporate quickly with a hand blender.

Spoon the mixture into the pastry case and put the tart in the oven for 20-25 minutes until the centre is set but still slightly wobbly. Leave to cool, during which time the topping will firm up.

To finish, dust the top with icing sugar and caramelise it with a blow torch. Serve at room temperature.

· Recipes from Giorgio Locatelli's book, Made in Italy (Fourth Estate)

 

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