For the perfect combination of fine wines, gourmet cuisine and idyllic landscapes, no part of France can compare with Burgundy. Home to the vineyards of some of the world's most famous wines - Romanée Conti, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Clos de Vougeot, Montrachet - Burgundy is known as La Côte d'Or, the Gold Coast, and that could easily refer to the 60 kilometres stretch of Route Nationale 6 between Chagny and Dijon, where both sides of the road are lined with famous vineyards.
Burgundy is made up mainly of independent winemaking families who have owned their often small parcels of vineyards for centuries, and they have a tradition of welcoming visitors to their ancient cellars. What's more, many of these vignerons have now opened their own bed and breakfasts, where you can taste the owner's wine in the evening and buy it at much cheaper prices than you'd find back home. This region is also renowned as the capital of French cuisine, and you have the choice of splashing out for gourmet cooking in elegant Michelin-starred restaurants, or enjoying delicious terroir dishes such as boeuf bourguignon or coq au vin in cheap rustic bistrots. There is the same choice when it comes to choosing wineries, so one day you can visit a majestic château whose renowned wines will be seriously expensive, the next you'll discover a tiny cellar in the same village, whose name may not be as prestigious, but whose wine will be equally delicious and much cheaper.
5 gourmet restaurants & rustic bistrots
La Table D'Olivier
Place du Monument, 21190 Puligny-Montrachet (03 80 21 37 65), olivier-leflaive.com
The white wines from Puligny and Chassagne are the most celebrated in Burgundy, and the ideal place to try a fine selection, accompanied by a good rustic meal, is at the cosy table d'hôte organised here every lunchtime by the respected winemaker, Olivier Leflaive. For a very reasonable €39, guests sample up to 14 excellent vintages, and feast off charcuterie and pâtés, a blanquette of Bresse chicken, and local cheeses such as the pungent Epoisses. There are tours of the cellars and the vineyards, and M Leflaive has also just opened a rather chic bed and breakfast in the village for those who don't feel like carrying on driving after lunch. There are plenty of touristy - and expensive - restaurants dotted around the village, but you're sure of a far more memorable occasion here.
Restaurant Le Charlemagne
Route de Vergelesses, 21420 Pernand-Vergelesses (03 80 21 51 45), lecharlemagne.fr
Laurent Peugeot is undoubtedly the hottest chef in Burgundy right now, and although his brilliant restaurant, Le Charlemagne, is set in picture-postcard scenery of rolling hills covered with vineyards, don't come here if you are looking forward to savouring traditional Burgundy cooking. To say that the menu is a surprise can only be an understatement, because right in the middle of the conservative, rural French countryside, Peugeot proposes a menu that is a stunning fusion of minimalist Japanese and hearty terroir de Bourgogne. It is quite a sight to see the dining room filled with burly vignerons ordering the likes of slowly-cooked veal served with marinated tuna, a nori vinaigrette and arusame chips, or a croque monsieur of duck foie gras and caramelised fillets of eel. But after learning his skills in Japan - and marrying a Japanese lady - Peugeot has won over the locals as well as the Michelin inspectors, who have already awarded him his first star.
Hotel Les Roches
Place de la Mairie, 21190 Saint-Romain (03 80 21 21 63)
St Romain is not one of the most well-known Burgundy wines, but the village itself is certainly one of the most beautiful, set high above the vineyards. There wasn't much to see here till a dynamic young couple, Séverine and Guillaume Crotet took over a Fawlty Towerish hotel, started renovations, and opened up their own restaurant. In the kitchen, Guillaume, himself the son of a retired Michelin-starred chef, is clearly enjoying himself reinventing quintessential Burgundy dishes, including the classic oeufs en meurette au vin rouge, jambon persille, and forgotten classic favourites such as the delicious tatin d'oreille de cochon a la sauge (pig's ear in sage sauce). Don't be surprised to see famous chefs from around the region dining here incognito on their night off, as the Les Roches has quickly gained a well-earned reputation for high-quality, creative food at very fair prices. Reserve quickly before it gets into all the guide books.
Boulangerie Epicerie Guery
21220 Morey-Saint-Denis (03 80 34 32 71)
It is easy to drive straight through the quiet village of Morey-Saint-Denis without even noticing the bakery of Delphine and Gérard Guery. This is no normal boulangerie however, but rather an animated bakery-bistrot-café of the type that is sadly disappearing in much of rural France. Delphine's mother, Mamie Jeanne, runs the kitchen, and she caters for locals with big appetites working in the vineyards. A typical menu du jour starts off with a sausage and lentil salad, followed by roast quail, a plate of cheeses, coffee and a bottle of the house red - from Morey itself - which would cost a fortune if it had a label. The cost of all this? An incredible €10. There is a sunny terrace overlooking the vineyards, but for a real slice of local life, sit by the bar where locals drop by for a ballon de rouge or a coffee topped with calvados.
Cafe-Restaurant de France
13 Rue Faubourg Bretonnière, 21200 Beaune (03 80 22 25 44)
Beaune is the unofficial wine capital of Burgundy, and an obligatory stop-off. Apart from its spectacular medieval Hospices, a charitable hospital that is funded by an annual auction of Burgundy wine, there is also the fascinating and informative Musée du Vin, and a bustling market that is a paradise for foodies. But with so many tourists flooding into Beaune each day, it is difficult to find a bar or restaurant where you don't get the feeling that you are being ripped off. Unless, of course, you discover the old-fashioned Café-Restaurant de France. Run by the friendly Le Payen family, who have been here for several generations, prepare yourself for a hearty set lunch, costing all of €10.70, and settle down to enjoy authentic Burgundy home cooking - plump escargots dripping in sizzling garlic butter, succulent guinea fowl and wild mushrooms or a delicious boeuf bourguignon.
5 winemaker's bed& breakfasts chambre d'hotes
Fouquerand
Rue de l'Orme, La Rochepot 21340 (03 80 21 72 80), €45
La Rochepot is one of the hidden secrets of Burgundy, tucked away in the hillside with a magical castle towering over the village, which is almost too beautiful to be true. This is one of the lesser-known vineyards, so prices for wine are very good value, and nearly every vigneron here has a rustic bed & breakfast. The ancient cellar of Marc Fouquerand is a great place to do some serious wine tasting, and both he and his wife and their two daughters-in-law rent out rooms. Don't expect anything luxurious, but you won't find more friendly or welcoming people.
Chateau de Melin
Hameau de Melin, Auxey-Duresses 21190 (03 80 21 21 29), chateaudemelin.com, €85
The hamlet of Melin is a few minutes away from La Rochepot, and for a small increase in budget you can stay in a castle. The grandiose Château de Melin has been lovingly restored by a young couple, Hélène and Arnaud Derats, the guest rooms have been sumptuously renovated and Hélène lays out a feast each morning for breakfast. Her husband owns tiny parcels of vineyards all around the region, and in the evening he invites everyone down to the medieval cellar to taste wonderful vintages that range from a simple Bourgogne Aligote to a sublime Puligny-Montrachet.
Les Nuits de Saint-Jean
Rue Sainte-Marguerite, 21630 Pommard (03 80 22 49 98), violot-guillemard.fr, €58
Vineyards in Burgundy are historically tiny, but the Pommard winemaker Thierry Violot-Guillemard reckons that one of his plots, the Clos de Derrière St Jean, could hold the record, and at only one tenth of a hectare it looks smaller than a back garden. The vines grow alongside a quaint cottage that his wife, Estelle, has transformed into a charming bed and breakfast, equipped with a big kitchen for families who want to cook their own meals. Like every vigneron, Thierry is justifiably proud of his vintages, and an evening tasting in his candlelit cellar can turn into an unforgettable occasion when he decides to surprise his visitors and open up some dusty bottles that were maybe laid down 10 or 12 years ago.
Chateau le Pre Aux Dames
21700 Villars-Fontaine (03 80 62 31 94), lepreauxdames.com, €120
Villars-Fontaine is another village surrounded by vineyards just outside the appelation contrôlée boundary of some of Burgundy's most famous Crus - Clos de Vougeot is just a few minutes' drive away - so you can find some incredible wines here at seriously affordable prices. Bernard Hudelot and his artist wife, Anne-Marie, have five luxuriously furnished b&b rooms in their 16th-century château, which is built over 14th-century cellars. M Hudelot can get so enthusiastic opening bottles of his wine that tastings can go on late into the evening. And if you stay during the vendanges, don't be surprised if he grabs you at breakfast to whisk you off in his jeep to visit the vineyards where all his pickers are harvesting.
Caveau Saint-Nicolas
13 Rue Haute, 21220 Morey-Saint-Denis (03 80 58 51 83), le-saint-nicolas.com, €50
Squeezed in between the two far more well-known wine villages of Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin, enthusiasts of Burgundy's Pinot Noir red wines should definitely stop off at Morey-Saint-Denis. Call beforehand (03 80 51 87 89) for a tasting at the cave of dynamic young vigneron Thierry Beaumont, who is making some terrific wines. You can then spend the night at the bed and breakfast, Caveau Saint-Nicolas, which is run by Thierry's aunt. This is another bargain address for families, as there is a proper kitchen in which to cook meals at night, and a cosy salon to relax in afterwards with a bottle of their fine wine.
5 winemakers
Chateau de Meursault 21190 Meursault (03 80 21 88 62)
The adjacent villages of Meursault and Pommard boast some of the finest Burgundy wines, and two of the region's most beautiful châteaux. But over the years, tourists have taken advantage of free wine tastings, so now visitors have to pay €15 for a tour. In the case of Château de Meursault, this is worth the expense, as the cellars are magnificent with with hundreds of thousands of bottles, and the dégustation is generous and of a high standard. Avoid Château de Pommard, though, as the wines are very over-priced.
Domaine Georges Glantenay et Fils
Rue de la Barre, 21190 Volnay (03 80 21 21 19)
Volnay sits within vine-clad hills overlooking Pommard and Meursault. Here you'll find the château where Hubert de Montigny still lives, probably the only vigneron to come out respectably from the cult wine movie Mondovino. But Monsieur de Montigny has passed on the business to his son, and the best place for a tasting is right on the main square at the cellar of Georges Glantenay. His family have been wine makers since 1500, and most visitors end up leaving with their car boots loaded with cases of his excellent Volnay, which are priced from only €14 a bottle.
Maison Champy
5 Rue du Grenier-à-Sel, 21200 Beaune, (03 80 25 09 99)
The history of wine in Burgundy is not only about the vignerons, because just as important are the negociants, the big business merchants who for centuries have selected the best grapes for their own labels and were responsible for commercialising Burgundy around the world. Normally, visiting a wine merchant is nowhere near as enjoyable as sitting down in a cellar with the vigneron himself, but in the centre of Beaune, visit Maison Champy. Founded in 1720, and with a cellar dating back to the 15th century, a dégustation here is unforgettable, and is the perfect opportunity to get an overall feel for the region's many wines.
Maison Capitaine-Gagnerot
38 route de Dijon, 21550 Ladoix-Serrigny (03 80 26 41 36)
In Burgundy there is no golden rule that the best wines are to be found in the village that bears the name of a Grand Cru. In Aloxe-Corton, for example, don't miss a tour of its striking château, but equally, don't buy your wine here. Instead, drive over to the adjoining village of Ladoix-Serrigny, and give a call to make an appointment for a tasting with the little-known vigneron, Francois Capitain. This friendly family, who have been cultivating vines for two centuries, own small parcels of vineyards covering over 20 different types of Burgundy wines. Their Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru comes from vines that are 55 years-old, and is excellent value at €24.
Domaine des Varoilles
11 Rue de l'Ancien Hôpital, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin (03 80 34 30 30)
Gevrey-Chambertin is both one of the prettiest villages in Burgundy and produces some of its most renowned wines, drawing wine tourists like a magnet, which unfortunately means that many of the high-street boutiques are over-priced. So it is worth seeking out in a narrow back lane, the cave of Domaine des Varoilles. Here you will taste an outstanding Gevrey sold at an honest price - be sure to try the 1996 Clos de Meix des Ouches at €18 - and don't be surprised if the winemaker, Gilbert Amiel, speaks French with an unusual accent, since he is Swiss.
5 luxury hotel-restaurants
Hotel Restaurant Lameloise
36 Place d'Armes, 71150 Chagny, (03 85 87 65 65), lameloise.fr, €160
To start a tour of Burgundy's vineyards in style there is no better place to splash out than booking a room at Hôtel Restaurant Lameloise, and reserving a table for their menu dégustation. Jacques Lameloise has been the inspiration for a generation of chefs, and his cuisine succeeds in raising terroir dishes to a stellar gastronomic level - a compote de queue de boeuf, purée de pommes de terre et truffes noir (beef-tail stew with pureéd potatoes and black truffles) or delicate Ratte potatoes grilled with snails, a red-wine sauce and creamed parsley - and surprises in the form of more contemporary recipes, such as roast turbot with a wild mushroom sabayon, razor clams and whelks. There was uproar when Michelin took away the third star that Lameloise had held for over 30 years, and it was reinstated in the 2007 edition of the Red Guide
Hostellerie de Levernois
Rue de Golf, 21200 Beaune (03 80 24 73 58), levernois.com, €180
Sightseeing, wine tasting, shopping and a long lazy lunch can take up the whole day in Beaune, but rather than check into one of the anonymous city hotels, drive for a few minutes out of the centre to the sleepy hamlet of Levernois, where you'll find the perfect place to relax, l'Hostellerie de Levernois. Set in private landscaped parkland, this is a peaceful oasis, recently taken over by a dynamic couple, Susanne and Jean-Louis Bottigliero, who seem to be on hand 24 hours a day to personally tend to their guests' every single need. The young chef, Vincent Maillard, won a Michelin star in his first year here, not surprisingly, as previously he had been selected by Alain Ducasse to run his Provençal restaurant, La Bastide de Moustier. Maillard actually comes from Beaune, and is expert at using local produce in dishes such as pigeon au foie gras, navets (turnips) caramelises au Cassis, sauce salmis
Villa Louise
9 Rue Franche, 21420 Aloxe-Corton (03 80 26 46 70), hotel-villa-louise.fr, €100
Driving out of Beaune towards Nuits-St-Georges on the Route Nationale, be sure not to miss the narrow turn-off to Aloxe-Corton. This is not just the most beautiful village in Burgundy, with its classic château surrounded by vineyards, but is also a rarity in that both its red, Corton Grand Cru, and white, Corton Charlemagne, are equally rated as two of France's finest wines. It also offers the most romantic place to stay, the Villa Louise, a 17th-century mansion that vigneron Véronique Perrin has transformed into an elegant boutique hotel, with beamed rooms bursting with original features and thoroughly modern bathrooms. Depending on the season, breakfast is served in a tranquil garden overlooking the vineyards, or in the cosy salon with a roaring log fire. There is no restaurant, but the dining room of Laurent Peugeot's Le Charlemagne is just a couple of minutes' drive away.
Abbaye de la Bussière
21360, La Bussière-sur-Ouche, 21360 Dijon (03 80490229), abbaye-dela-bussiere.com, €220
The Ouche valley is just at the edge of vineyards, but it is worth taking a short detour out here both for the countryside and to discover the Hotel Abbaye de la Bussière. An English couple, Clive and Tanith Cummings, have spent a small fortune transforming this 12th-century Cistercian abbey and its 18-acre park into a luxury hideaway hotel. As that Clive's parents own the similarly sumptuous Amberley Castle in Sussex, it is no surprise that they have made a very good job of it, preserving the original architecture and cloistered atmosphere, while adding every possible luxury to pamper guests. They also made a smart move in hiring the young, up-and-coming chef, Olivier Elzer, who has made a name - and a Michelin star - for himself for his light, stylish cuisine.
Chateau de Gilly
Gilly-les-Citeaux, 21640 Vougeot, (03 80 62 89 98), chateau-gilly.com, €156
Taking a detour to Vosne-Romanée is a pilgrimage for all wine lovers. Park in the centre of the village, then walk into the vineyards at the back of the tall Gothic church. These tiny, seemingly unremarkable parcels of vines produce the likes of Romanée-Conti, La Tache, Les Echezevaux and Richebourg. Burgundy wines quite simply don't come better than this. Just in the distance, you can't miss the magnificent medieval fortress-château of Clos de Vougeot. And to continue in the same grand style, the perfect place to reserve for the night is the majestic Château de Gilly. Take a stroll in the perfectly manicured jardin à la française, then dress for dinner in the spectacular 14th-century vaulted dining room. There is an excellent-value Gourmandise de Bourgogne menu at €42, but if you're tempted by some of the grand crus on the list, l'addition is likely to rocket.
