The Longleat Estate, Horningsham, Warminster, Wiltshire
(01985 844 308; batharms.co.uk)
Nestling in a ring of houses in the picturesque village of Horningsham on the Wiltshire/Somerset border, The Bath Arms draws visitors with its fine menu and a maze of unusual rooms. Part of the Longleat Estate, it is a five-minute arboreal stroll from Longleat House and is the only pub in the village. But having a captive audience doesn't detract from the quality of its service. Up the road from Lord Bath's extraordinary house and safari park, it does its own roaring trade, hosting the BBC crew filming Nature Park, wedding guests, and locals using it both as a restaurant and for a quiet tipple in the pleasant patio garden.
We enjoyed a fine lunch: a creamy smoked salmon and caper risotto was just the ticket - as were the two local ales, the Horningsham Pride and the deliciously honeyed Golden Apostle Ale - after a cycle from Westbury. As far as dining goes, it's very good; dinner and lunch menus are similar, with mains at £10-£12. The kitchen uses only seasonal vegetables and everything is sourced within 50 miles - so we soon felt fat, happy, and guiltless. For dinner, turbot with butter sauce and asparagus was excellent, and an outrageous sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream made my brain race. Gazing over us as we ate was a portrait of Lord Bath. His presence is everywhere on the estate.
The Bath Arms, an inn since 1736, has been renovated in the past year by new owner Christoph Brooke. Among the 14 individually styled rooms is the spacious Peacock, with a wide four-poster bed and Rajasthani furnishings giving a quasi-colonial feel. All rooms have big TVs, DVDs and broadband, and some have free-standing baths. You might get the Flashman (based on the novels) or the Kama Sutra, with erotic murals - only a little risque. Two minutes down the hill, and at a premium price, up to six can stay in the Lodge, part of the gatekeeper's house, which has a lordly view along the drive to Longleat House. All rooms are eccentrically designed, but achieve that balance between being slightly over the top and rather tasteful.
What we liked: the room, location, food, service, and a trip to see the animals.
What we didn't like: despite the food and furnishings, it's a tad pricey for a pub hotel.
The verdict: perfect for a special weekend.
The price: doubles start at £100 a night, but on Friday and Saturday there's a minimum two-night stay, from £260.
