European

Peter Gordon

Roast pumpkin stuffed with wild mushrooms and hazelnuts

Serves 4

4 baby pumpkins, about 500g each

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 tbs olive oil

600g mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned thoroughly

60g butter
1 large, white onion, diced

1 leek, sliced and well rinsed

2 tsp mixed fresh herbs

60g hazelnuts, roasted, skins removed and roughly chopped

Preheat the over 180°C/gas 4. If the bases of the pumpkins aren't level, carefully trim them. Cut the tops off the pumpkins, holding your knife at a 45° angle to the work surface. Scoop out the seeds and discard. Mix the garlic with the olive oil and a little salt, then brush this on the inside base of the pumpkins.

Separate the mushrooms into two groups: large and dense, and thin and delicate. Slice the larger ones into chunks.

Heat half the butter in a wide pan and when it begins to sizzle, add the onion and cook over a moderate heat, stirring often, until caramelised to a good deep golden colour. Then add the leek and cook until just wilted.

Add half the mushrooms (start with the denser ones) and cook over a moderate heat until they wilt. Tip into a bowl and cook the rest in the remaining butter until they wilt. Mix together with the herbs and hazelnuts and season well.

Spoon the mixture into the hollowed-out pumpkins and place their 'lids' back on. Put into a roasting dish, adding 1cm of hot water to the dish. Bake until you can insert a skewer through the pumpkin flesh into the centre, around 70 minutes.

Sweet potato, cavolo nero and gruyère lasagne

Serves 6 as a main course

500g cavolo nero

800g sweet potato, peeled and cut lengthwise into 0.5cm slices

800g red onions, thinly sliced

8 garlic cloves, sliced

200ml boiling water

2 heaped tsp chopped, hard herbs (thyme, sage, rosemary, oregano)

170g uncooked lasagne sheets

For the cheese sauce:

900ml milk

120ml olive oil

80g flour

2 bay leaves, each cut into 3

50g coarsely grated gruyère cheese

Preheat the oven to 170°C/gas 3½. To prepare the cavolo nero, simply pull its leaves from their stems. Holding these leaves in your hands, run your fingers (or a small knife) along the rib to separate the leaf from the rib. Only the leaf is edible.

Bring a large pot of slightly salted water to the boil and cook the cavolo nero for 4 minutes, then remove it from the water and drain in a colander. Add the sweet potato to the water in the pot and cook for around 5 minutes, to the stage where you can just insert a knife through the flesh. Remove the cavolo nero from the colander and carefully tip the sweet potatoes in. Squeeze out as much excess moisture from the cavolo nero as you can, then roughly chop it.

To make the cheese sauce, bring the milk almost to the boil in a pan. In another pan, around 1.5 litres in capacity, add 5 tablespoons of oil, the flour and bay leaves, and cook over a moderate heat, stirring constantly, until the flour is sizzling. Take the pan off the stove and whisk in the hot milk, then return the pan to the heat and bring to a simmer. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly as the sauce thickens. Take off the heat and stir in two-thirds of the cheese and season. Divide the sauce into two and mix the chopped cavolo nero into one half.

In a wide pan, sauté the onions and garlic in the remaining oil until they caramelise. Add the boiling water and let it bubble, then mix in the herbs and season. Tip half of the onion mixture into the baking dish and level it out. Place half the pasta sheets on top, breaking them to fit nicely. Next, add a layer of the plain cheese sauce, followed by a layer of the sweet potatoes. Add another layer of the pasta, followed by the cavolo nero cheese sauce, then the rest of the onions. Bake in the centre of the oven for 50 minutes, then spread the remaining cheese on top and grill until the cheese is golden and bubbly.

Sweet potato, leek, cumin, saffron and cauliflower soup

Serves 4-6

¼ cauliflower

60g butter

7 tbs extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 medium leek, sliced and well rinsed

3 garlic cloves, peeled

1 large sweet potato (about 400g), peeled and cut into chunks

1 bay leaf, torn in half

2 pinches of saffron

1.2 litres vegetable stock

1 large slice of stale bread, crusts removed and bread cut into cubes

chopped chives for garnish

Remove the thick stalks from the cauliflower and chop the florets into pieces. Heat a large pot, add half the butter and let it cook to a light nut-brown. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then add the cauliflower and cook over a moderate-to-high heat to caramelise it, stirring often. Tip the cauliflower into a bowl and wipe out the pot. Return the pot to the heat, add the remaining butter with the cumin and again cook the butter to nut-brown. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then add the leek and two of the garlic cloves, which you have roughly chopped, and sauté until the leek has wilted.

Add the sweet potato, bay leaf, saffron and vegetable stock, and bring to the boil. Turn down to a rapid simmer and cook until the potato is tender, then adjust the seasoning.

While the soup is cooking, make the croutons: smash the remaining garlic clove with the side of a large knife and place in a small pan with the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Place over a medium heat, add the cubed bread and cook until the bread turns golden, stirring constantly to prevent it and the garlic from burning. Once they are ready, tip the croutons and oil into a bowl, discarding the cooked garlic.

To serve, ladle the soup into bowls, spoon some cauliflower on top, then scatter with the croutons, together with the oil in which they were cooked and some chives.

Potato, celeriac and leek gratin with sage and feta

Serves 4-6 as a side dish

extra-virgin olive oil

3 large baking potatoes, cut into 0.5cm-thick slices

100g feta, crumbled

small handful sage leaves, shredded

350g celeriac, peeled and thinly sliced

½ leek, thinly sliced and rinsed if gritty

150ml boiling water

Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas 4. Brush two tablespoons of oil over a suitable baking dish and arrange half the potato slices on the bottom of the dish. Scatter half the feta and sage on top, sprinkle with a little salt, then lay the celeriac slices on top of that, followed by the leek and the remaining feta and sage. Lay the remaining potato slices on top, pour in 150ml boiling water, then lightly season (remembering the feta will be a little salty).

Brush one side of a sheet of non-stick baking parchment the same size as the dish with a little extra olive oil and lay this on top of the potatoes. Cover with foil and seal tightly.

Bake for 1½ hours, then remove the foil and baking parchment, and place the dish under a hot grill to colour the potatoes. Serve from the dish while piping hot.

· From Vegetables: The new food heroes, by Peter Gordon (Quadrille, £12.99).

· Providores, 109 Marylebone High Street, London W1 (020 7935 6175)

Spanish

Eddie & Sam hart

Cep Croquetas (mushroom croquettes)

Makes 40

For the béchamel:

2 bay leaves

4 tsp good-quality light olive oil

80g slightly salted butter

300g fresh ceps or other flavourful wild mushrooms

70g plain flour

pinch of sea salt

For the breadcrumbs:

1 small loaf of good-quality white bread

4 free-range eggs, beaten

For frying:

500ml vegetable or groundnut oil

Make the béchamel a day ahead. Pour the milk into a saucepan, add the bay and slowly bring to the boil. Take off the heat and leave to infuse.

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large frying pan, add the ceps and cook over a medium head for 3-4 minutes. Add the flour and salt, mix well and cook, stirring for 3 minutes. Remove the bay leaves from the milk, then add it little by little to the roux mix, stirring constantly, for about 10 minutes. When the milk is almost all used, the béchamel should be smooth and thick. Add the rest of the milk and cook for 1 minute.

Pour the béchamel onto a large plate, allow to cool, then cover with clingfilm and refrigerate overnight.

Slice the bread, remove the crusts and leave out to dry overnight. If it isn't dry the following day, place the slices on a tray in the oven at the lowest setting 50°C/gas ¼ for about 30 minutes but do not allow them to colour.

Break up the bread and whizz to fine crumbs in a blender, and tip out on to a plate. Pour the eggs onto another plate. Arrange the béchamel, eggs and breadcrumbs from left to right on your work surface.

To shape the croquetas, use 2 dessertspoons form the béchamel mix into quenelles, about 4cm in length. One at a time, dip the béchamel quenelles into the beaten egg, then coat in breadcrumbs. Gently shape the croquetas by rolling them between your cupped hands, applying more breadcrumbs to cover any bare patches. Carefully place them on a plate. Repeat to use all of the mixture, then chill in the fridge for about 20 minutes.

Heat the oil in a deep-fryer or deep saucepan to 180°C/gas 4 and cook the croquetas 4 or 5 at a time. Carefully immerse in the hot oil and deep-fry for 2-3 minutes. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. Serve the croquetas straight away.

· Fino , 33 Charlotte Street, London W1 (020 7813 8010)

· Barrafina, 54 Frith Street, London W1 (020 7813 8016)

North African

Sam & Sam Clark

Jewelled pumpkin rice with crispy onions

Serves 4-6

the flesh of a 750g squash (500g) cut into 1cm dice

1 tsp fine sea salt

2 tbs olive oil

a big pinch (about 50 strands) of saffron

100g unsalted butter

6cm piece of cinnamon stick

4 allspice berries, crushed

1 large or 2 medium onions, thinly sliced across the grain

15g dried barberries (or currants)

50g shelled unsalted pistachios

½ tsp ground cardamom

300g basmati rice, soaked in tepid, salted water for 1 hour

450ml vegetable stock (or 450ml boiling water mixed with 2 tsp vegetable bouillon)

For the crispy onions:

1 very large Spanish onion

vegetable oil for frying

First make the crispy onions. Careful slicing is crucial for beautifully crispy, evenly caramelised onions, so first halve and peel the onion, then slice it across the grain as consistently thinly as possible. If you have a mandolin, now may be the time to use it. Heat 8-10mm depth of vegetable oil in a wide saucepan over a high heat. When it is hot but not smoking, add a 1cm layer of the shaved onions and reduce the heat to medium. Fry, stirring often, until they are an even golden colour (they will get darker after you take them out of the pan). Drain and spread out on kitchen paper to cool, then repeat the process (you may need to top up the oil) until you have used all the onions - you can cook this quantity in 2 batches in a 30cm pan. The onions can be cooked ahead of time.

Preheat oven to 230°C/gas 8. Toss the diced butternut squash with half of the salt and the olive oil. Spread it in a single layer in a baking tray and roast for 30 minutes or until tender. Mix the saffron with 3 tablespoons of boiling water and add 25g of the butter, which should melt. Set aside. Heat the remaining butter in a medium saucepan with the cinnamon and allspice until it foams, then add the onion and the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt. Fry over a medium heat for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally until the onion is soft and starting to colour. Add the barberries, pistachios and cardamon and cook for 10 minutes more, until the onion is golden and sweet. Now drain the rice and add to the pan, stirring for a minute or two to coat, then pour in the stock. Taste for seasoning then scatter with the roast squash. Cover with a circle of greaseproof paper and a tight-fitting lid and cook over a high heat for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for a final 5 minutes. Remove the lid and the greaseproof paper and drizzle with the buttery saffron water. Replace the lid and leave to rest, off the heat, for 5-10 minutes. Serve with a scattering of crispy onions and some yoghurt seasoned with garlic, salt and pepper.

Garbanzos con espinacas (chickpeas and spinach)

Serves 4

200g chickpeas, soaked overnight with a pinch of bicarbonate of soda, or 2x 400g tins of cooked chickpeas, rinsed

6 tbs olive oil

500g spinach, washed

75g white bread, crusts removed, cut into small cubes

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

¾ tsp cumin seeds

1 small bunch fresh oregano, roughly chopped

1 small dried red chilli, crumbled

1½ tbs good-quality red wine vinegar

a good pinch of saffron (60 strands), infused in 4 tbs boiling water

½ tsp sweet smoked Spanish paprika

sea salt and black pepper

Drain the dried, soaked chickpeas in a colander, rinse under cold water, then place in a large saucepan. Fill with 2 litres of cold water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, skimming off any scum as it builds up, and cook for about 1-2 hours or until soft and tender. Remove from the heat, pour off excess liquid until level with the chickpeas, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Place a large saucepan over a medium heat and add half the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the spinach with a pinch of salt (in batches if necessary), and stir well. Remove when the leaves are just tender, drain in a colander and set aside.

Heat the remaining olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the bread for about 5 minutes until golden brown all over, then add the garlic, cumin, oregano and chilli, and cook for 1 more minute until the garlic is nutty brown. Transfer to a mortar and pestle or food processor along with the vinegar, and mash to a paste. Return the bread mixture to the pan and add the drained chickpeas and saffron-infused water. Stir until the chickpeas have absorbed the flavours and are hot, then season with salt and pepper. If the consistency is a little thick, add some water. Now add the spinach until it too is hot, check for seasoning and serve sprinkled with paprika on top and with fried bread as the Spanish do (or toast).

· From Moro East (Ebury, £25) by Sam & Sam Clark.

· Moro, 34 Exmouth Market, London EC1 (020 7833 8336)

Italian

Ruth Rogers and Rosie Gray

Aubergines and tomatoes

Serves 4

2 aubergines, cut into 2.5cm cubes

500g plum tomatoes, skinned and roughly chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced

1 dried red chilli, crumbled

2 tbs basil leaves

extra virgin olive oil

Sprinkle the aubergine cubes with sea salt and leave in a colander to drain for 30 minutes. Rinse and pat dry. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium, thick-bottomed pan. Add the garlic and fry until golden. Add the chilli and then the tomatoes with 1 teaspoon of sea salt. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, until you have a thick sauce. Keep warm.

Heat 5 tablespoons of olive oil in a large, thick-bottomed frying pan. When the oil is smoking, add the aubergines in batches and fry until golden on all sides. Drain on kitchen paper. You may have to add more oil as you continue, since the aubergines will absorb the oil as they cook. Mix the aubergines into the tomato sauce, add the basil and check the seasoning. Serve at room temperature.

Artichokes baked in foil with thyme

Serves 4

8 globe artichokes

3 tbs thyme leaves

1 lemon cut into quarters, plus half a lemon for rubbing the cut artichokes

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced

extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 220°C/gas 7. To prepare the artichokes, trim the stalks to 3cm from the base, then peel off the fibres from the stalks until you get to the pale core. Tear off the tough outer leaves and trim the remaining leaves down to the paler centre of the artichoke. Cut off the top tips, then peel around the base. Pull the remaining leaves open and scoop out the choke, if any. Rub the lemon half over each artichoke to prevent discolouration.

Push slivers of garlic, thyme, sea salt and black pepper between the leaves and in the centre of the artichokes. Lay each artichoke on a piece of foil large enough to wrap around. Drizzle with olive oil, scatter sea salt over and wrap up.

Roast in the preheated oven for 30 minutes. Serve with the lemon quarters and some olive oil.

Peas and broad beans sott'olio

1kg peas in the pod, shelled

1kg young broad beans in the pod, shelled

1 garlic clove, peeled

1 tbs mint leaves

2 tbs basil leaves

extra virgin olive oil

Cook the broad beans with the clove of garlic in boiling water for 3 minutes. Add the mint and continue boiling for 1 minute. Drain and lightly mash with a fork while hot. Season and stir in 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Cook the peas in boiling water for 3 minutes, then drain. Immediately pour over 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Leave to cool. Mix the peas into the broad bean mixture. Chop the basil and stir it into the mixture. Serve at room temperature.

· From River Café Pocket Books: Salads & Vegetables by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers.

· The River Cafe, Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, London W6 (020 7386 4200)

Thai

David Thompson

Geng gari (aromatic vegetable curry)

For the curry paste:

45g dried red chillies (soak the chillies in cold water overnight)

pinch salt

100g red Thai shallots

100g garlic

50g coriander root (you can substitute with 100g coriander stems if necessary)

75g turmeric

1 tbs white peppercorns, lightly roasted

15g coriander seed, lightly roasted

For the curry vegetables:

200g royal Jersey potatoes

100g baby corn

1litre coconut milk

600g coconut cream plus extra 3 tablespoons to serve

½ tbs palm sugar

2 tbs light soy sauce

50g fried shallots to serve

Make the curry paste by grinding the chillies to a fine paste in a mortar and pestle with a pinch of salt. Add the coriander roots, then shallots, then garlic and turmeric. Add the roasted, ground and sieved spices.

Peel the potatoes and steep in water for a few hours to remove any excess starch. Simmer in salted coconut milk until cooked, adding water if more liquid is needed. Drain, keeping the coconut stock.

In a smaller pan, add the coconut cream. Fry the paste in it over a medium heat for not less than 5 minutes, stirring to prevent scorching, until the paste is fragrant with the pepper and coriander seed. Don't worry if the paste has separated or is oily - it is meant to be like that - and it really should sizzle. Season with palm sugar and stir until it has melted into the paste and changed colour, then add the soy sauce.

Simmer for a further minute or so. Add your poached potatoes and baby corn. Make sure that the curry covers the vegetables; if it doesn't then add more poaching liquid to cover. Shake the pot to ensure that everything is incorporated well but do not use a spoon as this could break up the potatoes. Allow to rest for a few minutes to enable the spices to ripen and the flavours to meld. Bring the curry gently to the boil, check the seasoning: it should taste a little salty, rich from the coconut cream, and spicy. Finish with the 3 tablespoons of coconut cream over the top of the curry and serve sprinkled with deep-fried shallots. This curry is traditionally accompanied by the cucumber relish below.

Ajat dtaeng gwa (cucumber relish)

3 tbs coconut or white vinegar

3 tbs caster sugar

4 tbs water

salt

1 small cucumber, washed, quartered lengthwise and sliced

4 red shallots, finely sliced

2 tbs ginger, julienned

1 fresh small long red chilli, julienned or cut into thin rounds

coriander leaves

Combine the vinegar, sugar, water and salt in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat when the sugar dissolves. Cool, then strain. It should taste sour and sweet. Mix remaining ingredients in the serving bowl and pour over the vinegar and sugar liquid. Serve with curry.

·Get more recipes and tell us about your alternative Christmas dinner plans here

· Nahm, The Halkin, 5 Halkin Street, London SW1 (020 733 1234) OFM