Simon Rimmer 

How to cheat at breakfast time

Simon Rimmer reveals the secret to making the perfect porridge, poached eggs and bacon
  
  


1. Scramble eggs in a frying pan

I make scrambled eggs in a frying pan rather than a saucepan and I always use cream in the eggs, and butter in the pan. Once the butter is foaming add the beaten eggs and do not touch them until they start to set. Then I just use a spatula to break the eggs up and push them into the middle of the pan, rather than beating them to death with a whisk. This way, they cook evenly on a wider surface area, you've got loads more control, and you're unlikely to overcook them, plus you can decide how big your scrambly bits are.

2. Perfect grilled tomatoes

You can make grilled tomatoes perfectly if you get the grill as hot as hell, but move the grill pan down so it's quite low and then they won't scorch on top and will cook all the way through.

3. Hash browns that cook through

Hash browns are notoriously difficult to make properly, and often you end up with blackened potato cakes that are raw in the middle. A good trick is to use baking potatoes, and to boil them, skin on, for exactly eight minutes. Then when they've cooled, peel and grate them, and carry on as normal. Parboiling them releases some of the starch, which helps act as a glue, and they're less likely to be raw inside.

4. Co-ordinating a big fry-up

If you're doing a big fry-up for lots of people, cook your bacon and sausages in advance and reheat them under the grill at the last minute. Just make sure they're not sitting about in a puddle of their own fat, waiting for you to fry your eggs.

5. Non-swirled poached eggs

The swirling technique for poaching eggs is a complete myth and doesn't work. I much prefer cooking them in a big tray, such as a roasting tin, on the hob, which means you can do lots at the same time if you're cooking for a big group. Get about 8cm of water to just about simmering and slip them in gently. If you want to you can plunge them into very cold water until you need to serve them, in which case you just bring them back to the boil briefly top heat them up before serving.

6. Presentation tricks

It's a good idea to look at what you're serving from above and use a little bit of creativity. It's a cliché, but fresh herbs make things posher. If you've got big plates that you can arrange small quantities of food on, then you can get away with murder at breakfast (or any mealtime for that matter).

7. Use kitchen roll

Kitchen roll is the saving grace of all chefs, not just for those doing fry-ups. Sit your sausages and bacon on a couple of sheets for a few seconds before you serve them, and mop up any splashes of fat on anything else and the plates as well. It makes food look so much better than if it's sitting in a pool of grease.

8. Make porridge with cream

Porridge made with cream is the best. My wife is Scottish and strongly disapproves - I think I mostly do it to annoy her, but it is delicious and very impressive.

9. Only buy dry-cured bacon

Dry-cured bacon is a must. Bacon made in the traditional way meant 10lb of pork went into every 1lb of bacon. Now, it's all injected with water and 10lbs of pork makes 12lb of bacon. If you don't get dry-cured bacon it will shrink as it cooks. The same goes for sausages - you really get what you pay for. There are so many artisan sausage-makers in the UK that there's really no excuse for buying a cheap banger. With eggs, I work on the principle that happy animals make happy food, so go for free-range, obviously.

10. Perfect eggy bread

Eggy bread is brilliant with a little bit of cinnamon. Just dip bread in beaten egg and sprinkle on a bit of spice. It's even better if you make it with brioche because it's lovely and sweet.

· Simon Rimmer and Tim Lovejoy's new book, Lazy Brunch, is out now (Quadrille, £14.99). To order a copy for £13.99 with free UK p&p go to observer.co.uk/bookshop or call 0870 836 0885. Simon Rimmer is also in Breaking into Tesco on Channel Five next month

 

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