Why go now
Rather than visiting Venice for the Carnival in February or the Film Festival at the end of August, why not book a weekend for one of its less well-known but equally spectacular events? The annual Voga Longa, held next Sunday, is the only day motorised boats are banned in La Serenissima. Almost 2,000 rowing boats come from all over the world to take part in a 30km race that begins in front of St Mark's, goes round the whole lagoon, and ends up in the Grand Canal.
Checking in
Ancient palazzi all along the Grand Canal are suddenly being converted into luxurious hotels. To spoil yourself for the weekend - and get the perfect view of the Voga Longa as the boats row along the Grand Canal - check in at Ca'Sagredo Hotel (00 39 041 241 3111; casagredohotel.com; doubles from €300), an opulent 14th-century palace with a small terrace right on the water. A brand new B&B with equally good views of the Voga Longa is La Rosa dei Venti (00 39 041 724 1062; larosadeiventibb.com), where a room overlooking St Mark's Basin will cost €120 a night over the weekend of the rowing event. The island of La Giudecca has two new hotels: the Bauer Palladio (00 39 041 520 7022; palladiohotelspa.com; doubles from €605) is a small boutique property housed in an ancient convent behind the 17th-century Chiesa delle Zitelle; the Molino Stucky (00 39 041 272 3311; molinostuckyhilton.com; doubles from €375), a towering red-brick Victorian mill, has been transformed into a Hilton Hotel, with nearly 400 rooms.
Hit the streets
There are always plenty of art exhibitions on in Venice, and it is always worth getting there at opening time to avoid long queues. This is especially so for the mega show, 'Rome and the Barbarians', at the Palazzo Grassi (palazzograssi.it). And rather than wait in line to go up the St Mark's bell tower, stop off at the Correr Museum (museiciviciveneziani.it) to reserve a place on the guided tour of the nearby Torre dell'Orologio, the recently reopened 15th-century clock tower, which also has stunning views. While Venice is ideal for walking round, it is also great to explore by vaporetto, or water bus. Individual tickets are expensive (€6.50 for a single trip), but a weekend pass (€26) allows you take a boat out to the lagoon islands of Burano and Sant'Erasmo, or hop over to the Lido and have a swim on Blue Moon beach, one of the few free public bathing areas.
Coffee break
It will cost a small fortune, but everyone should at least once in their life sit out on Piazza San Marco sipping coffee at one of Venice's legendary cafes. Caffè Lavena has the best musicians serenading customers, while Caffè Florian has the most beautiful interior salons if it is raining. But to mix with the locals and taste real gourmet coffee, head to the Rialto bridge and track down the Caffè del Doge, tucked away on Calle dei Cinque.
Neighbourhood watch
No part of La Serenissima has changed as much recently as the neighbourhood around the Rialto. Always bursting with crowds each morning for the mercato, the Rialto has now become a maze of fun bars and cool restaurants. If you're renting an apartment and don't feel like cooking, Pronto Pesce in the fish market is a new gourmet takeaway delicatessen, while Al Mercà in the Campo Bella Vienna has an outstanding selection of local wines and tasty snacks. At night, the Il Muro bar is the place for cocktails, complimentary buffet and live DJ, while huge crowds throng the Campo San Giacometto till the early hours, milling outside bars such as the Naranzaria
Retail therapy
Forget Murano glass and carnival masks and go looking for some more original, offbeat Venetian shops. Giovanna Zanella (Calle Carminati in the Castello district) creates an outrageous line of surreal handmade shoes, while Gianni Dittura in Calle Fiubera is the place for beautiful pastel-coloured velvet gondolier slippers. Serena Vianello on Campo San Aponal has a seductive fashion boutique featuring little-known Italian designers, including irresistible hats and scarves by Valeria Bellinaso. A genial British expat, John Francis Phillimore, has opened Old World Books on Campo Ghetto Vecchio. It is a goldmine for anyone looking for antiquarian books in English on Venice. For authentic antiques, check out the new workshop-boutique of artisan restorer Walter Ballarin on Campo Santa Giustina.
Worked up an appetite?
The Taverna Campiello del Remer (on Campiello del Remer near the Rialto) is a huge hit with locals, and hasn't been discovered by too many tourists. The terrace looks over the Grand Canal, the interiors resemble a country lodge, and the copious €20 buffet lunch is the best - and most delicious - deal in town. At night, Antica Adelaide in Cannaregio (Calle Racchetta, 00 39 041 523 2629) has a young chef who creates both gourmet dishes like risotto with tender cod cheeks and radiccio, and hearty tagliata of fillet steak or sweet lamb chops. Also in Cannaregio, Osteria La Frasca on Corte della Carità (00 39 041 528 5433) is a cosy, romanticvenuethat has come under new management, offering Venetian classics - fritto misto, spaghetti al nero di seppia - at reasonable prices.
Big night out
Forget the overpriced Bellini in Harry's Bar and kick off the evening in style with a sunset cocktail at the rooftop Skyline Bar of the Molino Stucky on La Giudecca, with incredible aerial views over Venice. Take the vaporetto to the Fondamenta Zattere in Dorsoduro and walk over to the buzzing Campo Santa Margherita for a simple but romantic candlelight meal in the latest place to open here, Osteria alla Bifora, or splash out for a meal at the Centrale on Calle della Piscina just off Calle Frezzeria. A favourite with visiting celebs, this 'restaurant lounge' offers minimalist design in a 16th-century palace serving fusion cuisine. Venice has never been known for its nightlife, but there is now, finally, a club where you can finish the night dancing, the delightfully kitsch but fun 947 Club on Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo in the Castello district, just behind the Danieli Hotel.
Getting there
Easyjet flies to Marco Polo airport (eight miles from Venice) from Belfast, Bristol, East Midlands and Gatwick from £31 one way. Ryanair flies to Treviso from London Stansted and Liverpool, from £15 one way. Treviso is about 20 miles from Venice and linked by AVTO bus (return ticket €9).
