Been there … readers’ guide to Edinburgh

Readers tip their favourite tried and tested places to eat, drink, stay and go out in the festival city
  
  

Edinburgh, Scotland
City guide ... 'Edinburgh is definitely a city for walking and exploring ... '. Photograph: Atlantide Phototravel/Corbis Photograph: Atlantide Phototravel/Corbis

Where to eat

McKirdy's Steakhouse
Posted by standoff, January 11 2008
McKirdy's is a steakhouse run by a butcher. Need I say more! The steak is second to none and combined with good prices and a relaxed but fun atmosphere it is a must go when hungry in Edinburgh! Trust me, I'm a farmer.

· Morrison Street, Edinburgh - not far from Haymarket Station. +44 (0)131 229 660; McKirdy's Steakhouse

Kings Wark
Posted by Domgrah1, August 2 2007
Good food at any time, but especially the breakfast. Best Sunday breakfast I know in the UK. Forget about breakfast in your hotel, cooking your own toast and lukewarm coffee. The Kings Wark do not just do a fantastic fry-up, but a wide variety of other options as well (veggie, kippers etc). Great staff, and the food is excellent - freshly cooked rather than sitting around under warming lights. Plus as much freshly made coffee as you can drink.

· 36 Shore, Leith, Edinburgh, Midlothian, EH6 6QU; +44 (0)131 554 9260

Cramond Gallery Bistro
Posted by bladeaway, November 4 2007
Cosy tea room/bistro/restaurant (mind your head!) at beautiful Cramond on the quayside of the River Almond and Forth. A great selection of home-cooked local recipes, soups with homemade bread, full meals or just a tea, coffee or chocolate and cake. The stone-built artisans cottage was once a cooperage for the long-gone brewing pub next door. Lovely walks along the beaches and fields away from the Edinburgh crowds, but within walking distance of the city (four-five miles).

· 4-5 Riverside, Edinburgh, EH4 6NY; +44 (0)131 312 6555

Kebab Mahal
Posted by GoingGaga, September 6 2007
Easily the best and best-value place to get curry in Edinburgh. Just a handful of tables, unhurried service, everything cooked to order, and massive platefuls you'll struggle to finish. Cheap, cheerful, and unbeatable. Very popular with locals and students, but with a very diverse customer profile (based on looking at who's in!). Worth coming to Edinburgh for. No, really!

· 7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh, EH8 9B; +44 (0)131 667 5214; Kebab Mehal

L'Alba D'Oro
Posted by DrMcManus, July 29 2007
An award-winning chippy in the New Town. Enjoy a range of deep-fried treats, including haggis pudding or battered pizza with your chips, all covered in an Edinburgh-wide chip shop specialty, brown sauce (half HP, half vinegar, all fantastic). While the food is good, the range of booze is amazing; especially if you fancy a jeroboam of champagne to wash down your chips.

· 7 Henderson Row, Edinburgh, EH3 5DH; +44 (0)131 557 2580; L'Alba D'Oro

Jacques
Posted by cjnelson, July 30 2007
If Gérard Depardieu had a love child with Liz McColgan, this is the restaurant that child would manage. As Parisian as the Seine, as Scottish as Cairngorm, this is a shining gem in a grottier bit of the city. Great food, great service - well worth looking it out, but do book.

· 8 Gillespie Place, EH10 4HS. +44 (0)131 229 6080

Tex Mex II
Posted by Gingerred, December 7 2007
The best Mexican food I have eaten outside the States. The interior is bright and uses authentic Mexican colours and the food is fab. I especially loved the carnitas which took me back home to Santa Fe. Worth a visit.

· 64 Thistle Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1EN; +44 (0)131 260 9699; Tex Mex II

Monster Mash
Posted by ArthursSeat, June 18 2007
Mashed potatoes in all sorts of varieties. Comfort food at its best; very filling, and very cheap.

· 4a Forrest Road, Edinburgh; +44 (0)131 225 7069; Monster Mash

Where to stay

Castle Rock Hostel
Posted by Sissi, June 18 2008
Anyone looking for good budget accommodation in Edinburgh need look no further than Castle Rock. When this Edinburgh hostel says it has a good location it isn't joking, there are views of the castle from inside and it's about a minute's walk away from the city centre. In addition, it's a funky and fun place – I especially enjoyed the random art covering the walls!

· 15 Johnston Terrace, Edinburgh, Lothian, EH1 2PW; +44 (0)131 225 9666; Castle Rock Hostel

The Balmoral Hotel
Posted by nab82ba, March 19 2008
It is the place to stay in Edinburgh, it looks absolutely stunning on the outside and, from the polite doormen to the Michelin-starred restaurant, this is the height of luxury. Well worth a look around, even for a coffee if you can't afford to splash out for a room.

· 1 Princes Street, Edinburgh EH2 2EQ; +44 (0)131 556 2414; The Balmoral Hotel

Osbourne Hotel
Posted by karenbryan, January 18 2008
Cheap, especially for a single room. I paid £24 for a single ensuite. Centrally located, 10 minutes' walk from Waverley rail station and Princes St. Breakfast not great, but good if you want budget accommodation with your own bathroom at a cheap rate.

· 51-59 York Place, Edinburgh EH1 3JD; +44 (0)131 556 5577; Osbourne Hotel

One Royal Circus
Posted by JulieT, September 13 2007
This beautiful Georgian house is a B&B, and then some. Owners, Mike and Susan Gordon (delightful hosts) restored the house from scratch (they also own a modern property available for hire nearby) and have had a few celebrity guests stay. The place is going to be featured in the next Mr and Mrs Smith guidebook, say no more. £138-£258 with complimentary drinks and run of the house.

·One Royal Circus, Edinburgh, EH3 6TL; One Royal Circus; +44 (0)131 625 6669

Argyle Backpackers Hostel
Posted by Thrikodithanam, July 28 2007
If you're visiting Edinburgh on a budget, I recommend staying at the Argyle Backpackers Hostel. It's very cheap - my girlfriend and I stayed in a twin room and it was just over £40 a night between the two of us but you can get a bed in a shared room from about £13 a night. The hostel is in the beautiful Marchmont area, directly opposite an excellent little row of shops - a greengrocers, a vegetarian wholefood shop and an amazing convenience store with a wide range of vegan and organic products. It's just south of the Meadows and is only a few minute's walk from the Royal Mile.

· 14 Argyle Place, Edinburgh, EH9 1JL; +44 (0)131 667 9991; Argyle Backpackers

Bruntsfield Hotel
Posted by ArthursSeat, June 18 2007
Traditional hotel in Edinburgh overlooking the castle. 71 bedrooms, free parking, and Internet access provided.

· 69 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh EH10 4HH; +44 (0)131 229 1393; Bruntsfield Hotel

Where to go out

Bramble bar
Posted by hollifer, January 25 2007
It is a small, cosy, beautifully thought out bar on Queen Street away from the crowds of George Street. Lovely generous cocktail menu, gorgeous friendly staff, perfect lighting, comfy seats and cocktail menus bound inside the shells of literary gems (the guts of which went to a good home). It's the attention to detail which stands out here.
Weekends see decent house music played by friends and guests. Just don't tell anyone you don't like about it.

· 16A Queen St, Edinburgh; +44 (0)131 226 6343

Blue Blazer
Posted by PotatyPete, July 28 2007
Best kept pub secret in Edinburgh. Minutes from the hell of the Grassmarket and refreshingly free of stag parties and tourists. A fantastic selection of ales, cracking selection of whiskies, gins, rums and vodkas, friendly staff and friendly locals. A proper, old-fashioned free house.

· 2 Spittal Street, Edinburgh, EH3 9DX; +44 (0)131-229 5030

The Malt Shovel
Posted by scottishchris, February 27 2007
Cosy pub on steep and curvy Cockburn Street. Loads of whiskys (they have a 20 page printed list with taste notes and prices) and good selection of ales. It gets the tourists right enough, but has a good crowd of regulars and enough randoms to ensure an entertaining time. Get a booth at the window and watch the world go by.

· 11-15 Cockburn Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1BP; +44 (0)131-225 6843

Three Sisters Pub
Posted by Sissi, June 18 2008
A visit to Edinburgh wouldn't be the same without a pint in a traditional pub. With a handful of universities and a horde of students in the city, finding cheap beer is relatively easy. Three Sisters was the best of the lot with three bars inside and a spacious courtyard.

· 139 Cowgate, Edinburgh, EH1 1JS; +44 (0)131 622 6801

Cameo bar
Posted by larsern, July 28 2007
The independent cinema and cafe-bar Cameo on Edinburgh's southside is a delightful place with friendly staff and real atmosphere. I will surely miss having coffee or a bottle of beer before or after a carefully selected movie.

· 38 Home Street, Tollcross, Edinburgh, EH3 9LZ; +44 (0)131 2284141

What to see

The real Mary King's Close
Posted by Sissi, June 18 2008
Hidden under the Royal Mile is a series of narrow streets that used to be part of the city above in the 16th century or so and are now part of the foundations of the Royal Mile. These are real preserved buildings, not just a tourist show, and a fascinating look at Edinburgh in a past time. A word of warning – the smells are pretty real too!

· 2 Warriston's Court, Writers Close, Edinburgh EH1 1PG; 08702 430160; The real Mary King's close

Cabaret Antiques, Curios and Books
Posted by geoffo, January 15 2008
If up near the castle it is well worth wandering down through the Grass Market. Where the road continues into West Port there are some splendid shops tourists might not otherwise find. Just by walking a bit more I came across a wonderful shop, Cabaret Antiques and Curios, which is spread over two floors and has an extraordinary selection of antiques, knick knacks, curios, books and other treasures. I found presents for several people in here and the prices seemed very reasonable. The owners seem happy for you to browse and take your time. It was an unexpected surprise and proves it is well worth exploring sometimes away from the usual tourist areas. Edinburgh is definitely a city for walking and exploring, especially the Old Town bit all around the Castle which so dominates the city.

· 137 West Port, Edinburgh, EH3 9DP; +44 (0)131 229 4100

The Water of Leith: a wonderful walk
Posted by MungoC, December 11 2006
The Water of Leith Walkway will take you along about 12 miles of river through the heart of Edinburgh from Balerno to Leith. One of the nicest stretches is the walk from Stockbridge to the Dean Gallery and Modern Art Gallery, which consists of a mile of picturesque woodland, including a Victorian mineral well guarded by a rather grand nymph-type and wander through the very pretty Dean Village. The best bit is that when you get to the fantastic galleries, you can reward yourself with chocolate cake (Dean Gallery Cafe - highly recommended). Alternatively, walk in the opposite direction (towards Leith) and after three miles pop out onto The Shore in Leith for an excellent feast and pint at the King's Wark.

· Water of Leith

The beaches of East Lothian
Posted by Leith, May 31 2007
On the coast, south of Edinburgh, the beaches of East Lothian are wonderful. Choose from Aberlady Nature Reserve (bird watching), Gullane (also good for golf), Yellowcraigs, Tyninghame and the John Muir Country Park at Dunbar. Lovely dunes, yellow sand, interesting bird life and lovely small villages and towns with excellent coffee shops and home baking! The main east coast rail line runs through East Lothian.

Church of St John the Evangelist, Edinburgh
Posted by MaxReger, January 17 2008
This is a Scottish Episcopal Church which was built in 1818. It was not until the 1850s, however, that stained glass designs were incorporated into the windows, and this practice continued into the 20th century. In the mid-1980s all the glass was taken out, cleaned and repaired. The church is a fine building and its stained glass is remarkable for the consistency of its design. Most of the windows were made in the studios of Ballantine and Allen of Edinburgh. Where the appearance of most churches has evolved over many centuries, St John the Evangelist offers a concentrated view of largely 19th-century Scottish style and design.

· Church of St John the Evangelist, Princes Street, Edinburgh EH2 4BJ; +44 (0)131 229 7565; St Johns

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