John Torode 

How to cook beef: Perfect roast

The best roast beef in the world is a British fore rib matured on the bone for 28 days and taken from a Dexter rare-breed heifer ...
  
  


The classic roast

This really can be straightforward, but so many of us get it so wrong. The rib needs marbling - fat that is in the meat. It slowly disappears as it cooks, keeping the beef moist. Under-mature beef with no fat through the meat will be a dry and tasteless disappointment and you will get little yield from it. Ask your butcher for a short-bone rib; the layer of fat should be white with a touch of yellow - too much yellow and it will taste very grassy. The beef should also be well marbled and the marbling white: if it is yellow, just say no!

I like to salt the fat 12 hours before the joint goes in the oven. Criss-cross the fat with a sharp knife. Then make a 50-50 mixture of chopped rosemary and salt and pepper. Rub a handful of seasoning over the fat, the rib bones and flesh. Put the joint in the fridge and go to bed.

The next day, heat the oven to 180°C/Gas 4. For each 1.5kg I allow 45 minutes' cooking time. This means you will get a well-done outside, medium just inside, medium rare meat then, at the centre, rare beef. After cooking, the beef must be left to relax for a good 20 minutes before it is carved.

I like to roast my meat with good spuds, which should be placed under the joint 1 hour 20 minutes before serving. That allows you to take them out and keep them warm in a serving dish, then pour off most of the fat and use it to make the Yorkshire puds.

Yorshire puddings

8 eggs
600ml milk
½ tsp salt
500g plain flour
3 tbs dripping

Heat the oven to 220°C/Gas 7. Beat the eggs with the milk and salt. Sieve the flour twice to aerate it, then beat the flour into the milk mixture to make a batter. You can sieve the batter if you like.

Place the Yorkshire tray in the oven until hot. Add a good amount of dripping to each indentation and heat until the fat is smoking.

This is where you must be careful as the fat is very hot. Ladle some of the batter into each of the indentations so that they are nearly full, then return the tray to the oven. Reduce the heat to 200°C/Gas 6 and cook for 15 minutes.

Gravy

Leave about a tablespoon of fat in the roasting tray on a low heat. Sprinkle in about 2 tablespoons of flour and stir well - the flour will become like brown breadcrumbs. Add a little salt, turn the heat up to medium and pour in 300ml water (cold is fine). Stir and stir and stir - as the heat builds the lumps will disappear. As you boil the gravy it will get thick. Add some more water, boil again and it will get thick. Do it again. And again until the gravy is the thickness you like.

Cote de boeuf with caramelised shallots

This huge hunk of meat takes time. I often cook this with all the fat so I get all the flavour, then trim off some of the fat before I carve it. Because this is a big, well-used muscle, I do not believe that it should be too rare or it will be tough; the sinew and the fat need to break down.

Serves 4
2 large ribs of beef, about 700g each
pepper

For the caramelised shallots:
50ml vegetable oil
12 whole banana shallots
50g butter
2 bay leaves
1 thyme sprig
sea salt
250ml beef stock

To make the caramelised shallots, heat the oil in a frying pan, add the shallots and colour them over a high heat. Once coloured, drain off and throw away the oil.

Add the butter, bay, thyme and some salt to the pan. Cook for a good 5 minutes, turning and shaking the shallots, but try not to burn the butter.

Add enough stock to just cover the base of the pan and allow the liquid to bubble away before adding any more; the sauce will reduce and become sticky while cooking the shallots at the same time. Continue until the shallots are very soft and have a thick buttery and beefy glaze.

Meanwhile, heat a griddle plate and season the beef well, remembering that it is thick. Score the fat a little and lay the cutlet fat-side down on the griddle. That fat will start to melt and this is what is going to flavour the outside of this great big beauty.

Once the fat starts to char, let it fall naturally on to one side and leave the beef to cook for 4 minutes. Turn it over and cook for another 4 minutes. Turn again, but do it so that you rotate the meat by 180 degrees and grill for 2 more minutes. Flip it over, then put in a hot oven for about 6 minutes for a medium steak. Let it rest for 5 minutes before serving it whole ... you have to show off!

 

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