The extreme south-eastern edge of England - the bulge closest to France and, in fact, the very spot Caesar chose to tramp up the gravel beaches when he first set foot on these islands in 55BC - isn't a place people tend to dawdle. It's the launchpad for Europe. They hurtle across it on the Eurostar, drive through it to catch the Dover ferry at some ungodly hour, or queue along the M20 en route for the Channel Tunnel.

It's a shame, really, because there is much to recommend this ancient corner of England. Muddy lanes, crumbling castles, authentic pubs ... For people travelling in the same direction as Caesar, eastern Kent offers visitors a snapshot of many of this country's finer points and, over the course of a very wet weekend, it enabled me to bring together two of my personal English favourites: James Bond and fish.

To those who don't know, the far side of Kent is Bond country. It's where Ian Fleming had a holiday house (St Margaret's Bay - he bought it from Noël Coward in the Fifties), where he drank (the Duck Inn at Pett Bottom was his local), where he played golf (Royal St George's, Sandwich), where he died (he had a heart attack on the course in 1964) and where he came up with the inspiration for 007 (the number of the coach service from Dover to London).

The Marquis of Granby, as it was, has had a troubled few years. A friend who lives nearby described it as "truly horrendous" - though he does tend to exaggerate. But when it went bust last year, a local property developer saw an opportunity. This area is not well served by decent restaurants, despite the fact that it is studded with the indulgent homes of fat-cat commuters. First was a £1.5m renovation for the 200-year-old village inn. Gone are the sticky carpets and juke boxes. Now it is all polished oak floors, exposed beams and original brickwork.

Having prepared the dining room and kitchens, a chef was installed. Step forward Charlie Lakin. Charlie grew up in Yorkshire where he started working under Andrew Pern at the Star Inn in Harome, which won numerous accolades, including a Michelin star. Charlie's emphasis is on seasonal produce, local suppliers and low food miles. Rabbit from the valley, wild herbs from the hedgerows, and the catch of the day from the fishing boats at Deal.

I had freshly caught turbot, a lovely, intricate dish that was rich, flavoursome and plate-lickingly delicious. My wife went for roast partridge - the bird had been shot by the Marquis's owner the previous weekend.

But these delights paled into insignificance when the puddings arrived: coffee mousse with hogweed ice cream for her and a banana souffle with tonka-bean ice cream for me - sounds odd, but they were bafflingly yummy.

There are five large rooms available. Ours was all chocolate and turquoise. A vast bed, sumptuous fabrics, a bath Cleopatra would have been happy to fill with ass's milk for a Sunday soak. A couple of nice comic touches, too: rubber ducks in the bath and a cuddly wolf to put outside your door instead of a Do Not Disturb sign.

So, next time you are off on a gastronomic trip to France, why not start the fine dining before you go?

• The cost: The Marquis is running a credit crunch-busting room deal for the first three months of 2009. Luxury double rooms from £75 (usual price £95), while the suite is £175 (usual price £240), including breakfast. A three-course dinner costs £19.95, while the à la carte menu is £34.95 for three courses.