Why go now?
Because Aqaba's weather forecast for the next three or four months is cloudless skies, temperatures around 25-30C and low humidity. This modest town on Jordan's Red Sea coast could not be more different from its brash Egyptian neighbours Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada: locals outnumber tourists, souks remain authentically grungy - and the whole area is a duty-free zone.

Aqaba offers superb diving and snorkelling, long, sandy beaches and top-rated hotels. Sunsets are exceptional and framed by rugged mountains, palm trees and shimmering water. Plus, the stone-carved city of Petra and deserts of Wadi Rum are on the doorstep.

Checking in
The swanky Radisson SAS (00 962 3201 4448; radissonsas.com) has just opened on Tala Bay, 15km south of town, offering airy, minimalist rooms (from £137) and numerous pools, lounges and restaurants. For its palm-fringed beach, excellent restaurants and unbeatable city-centre location, the Mövenpick (00 962 3203 4020; movenpick.com) is a great choice, with doubles from £142, while Captain's (00 962 3206 0710) is a sleek, stylish three-star just back from the beach, doubles from £78. If you're on a budget, hang out at the hippyish Bedouin Garden Village (00 962 77 762 7933; bedouin-hotels.com), where simple, well-kept doubles cost around £23.

Hit the streets
Start at the 14th-century Mamluke fort on the beach: its twin-towered gateway features an Arabic inscription recording renovations made around 1510. In 1917, an Ottoman garrison was expecting an attack from the sea when an Arab army under TE Lawrence stormed in from the mountains. Alongside, the Aqaba Archaeological Museum (00 962 3201 9063) displays medieval Chinese ceramics and the first milestone of a highway built by the Roman emperor Trajan to link Aqaba with Syria.

There's world-class diving and snorkelling on offer. SeaStar (00 962 3201 3735; aqabadivingseastar.com) and Dive Aqaba (00 962 79 660 0701; diveaqaba.com), among others, can host anything from an hour's snorkelling to week-long Padi dive courses.

Coffee break
Head to the public beach, where you'll find local cafes offering tea and "hubble-bubble" water pipes at tables right by the lapping waves. The best of Aqaba's pavement cafes is Wesalak (00 962 3 202 2600), offering the comfiest chairs in town and a wide range of smoothies, ice cream and good coffee.

Neighbourhood watch
Aqaba is expanding its coastline with Dubai-style beachfront developments. Tala Bay is already open, with Saraya, Ayla and others scheduled for 2010 and 2011. Till then, book ahead with the Royal Aero Sports Club (00 962 3 205 8050; royalaeroclub.com) to see all of Aqaba's neighbourhoods in one go - from the air. Buzz the beaches in a microlight (£53 for 30mins), or opt for skydiving from 10,000 feet (£230).

Retail therapy
Right by the fort is Souk Ayadi (tamweelcom.org), selling exquisite textiles handwoven by local women, as well as ceramics and home furnishings.

Worked up an appetite?
Bourj al-Hamam, at the InterContinental hotel (00 962 3 209 2222; interconti.com), serves delicious Lebanese mezze such as tabbouleh (parsley salad) and shanklish (sheep's cheese) alongside succulent kebabs. Try sayadiya, a local dish of fish with rice, at Floka (00 962 3 203 0860) or excellent fettucine al pesce in the Royal Yacht Club Italian restaurant (00 962 6464 4228; romero-jordan.com).

Big night out
Enjoy a night of a million stars by camping in the Wadi Rum desert, a stupendous landscape of reddish dunes and mountains. Book with a Bedouin guide to roam by jeep or camel, see a breathtaking sunset, then stay for dinner and sleep in a traditional tent. Mzied Atieg (00 962 7 7730 4501; mzied.com), for example, is a genial host and a virtuoso on the rababa, the one-stringed violin.

Getting there
Bmi (0870 60 70 555; flybmi.com) and Royal Jordanian (08719 112 112; rja.com.jo) fly daily from Heathrow to Amman, from where an airport taxi to Aqaba is £90, or hire a car with Reliable (rentareliablecar.com): four days costs about £125. A bus is £6. Royal Jordanian has twice-daily shuttles between Amman and Aqaba from £85 return (flight time 30mins). If you want to stay longer, Voyages Jules Verne (0845 166 7003; vjv.co.uk) has a week's package in Aqaba from £445, including direct flights from Gatwick. Tourist information is at visitjordan.com/uk.

(0870 60 70 555; flybmi.com) and Royal Jordanian (08719 112 112; rja.com.jo) fly daily from Heathrow to Amman, from where an airport taxi to Aqaba is £90, or hire a car with Reliable (rentareliablecar.com): four days costs about £125. A bus is £6. Royal Jordanian has twice-daily shuttles between Amman and Aqaba from £85 return (flight time 30mins). If you want to stay longer, Voyages Jules Verne (0845 166 7003; vjv.co.uk) has a week's package in Aqaba from £445, including direct flights from Gatwick. Tourist information is at visitjordan.com/uk.

• Matthew Teller is author of the Rough Guide to Jordan (£13.99)