The following correction was printed in the Observer's For the record column, Sunday 3 May 2009.

Readers following our recipe for herrings with potato salad should note that freezing it for 24 hours and then defrosting before use will remove any risk of the nematode worm parasite being present.

Glamorous comfort food - what's not to love about the French bistro? True - for a while the bistro seemed as enticing as a stale bread stick. But now the restaurants that have been a part of the foodie landscape of France for over 200 years are fashionable once again, with big-name chefs returning to the recipes that have made bistros famous. The times seem to demand a soothing, satisfying style of cooking. However, you don't have to cross the Channel to make the most of this renaissance. Here is a selection of the very best classic dishes, from snails in garlicky butter to the perfect fish stew. And if you fancy trying some of them in their original setting, we've also included a guide to the most loved bistros in France.

Mariner's mussels

Region: Normandy

Serves 4

Preparation: 5 minutes

Cooking: 20 minutes

50g butter
2 tbs olive oil
3 garlic cloves, crushed
3 shallots, diced
2kg mussels, cleaned and washed
1 red chilli, deseeded and thinly sliced
200ml white wine
1 bay leaf
sprig of fresh thyme
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
large bunch of fresh parsley, chopped
fresh bread, to serve

Heat the butter and oil in a large pan, add the garlic and shallots and saute for 5 minutes without colouring. Discard any mussels that are even slightly open or damaged, and do not close when tapped against the side of the sink.

Add the chilli, mussels, wine, bay leaf, thyme and seasoning to the pan, cover with a lid and cook for 10 minutes, tossing the mussels from time to time to ensure even cooking. The mussels are cooked when they have opened. Discard any that have not opened.

Spoon the mussels out into a large pot using a draining spoon, and keep them warm.

Return the pan with the cooking liquor to a high heat, boil rapidly for 5 minutes to reduce, then add the lemon zest and juice and chopped parsley. Pour over the mussels and serve with large quantities of bread.

Snails with garlic and herb butter

Region: Paris

Serves 4

Preparation: 45 minutes, plus 3 hours for purging if using live snails

Cooking: 15-18 minutes

24 large Bourgogne snails, cooked in stock, and their shells empty
300g unsalted butter
25g fine mixed herbs (parsley, tarragon, chervil, chives)
6 garlic cloves, crushed and chopped
50g fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 shallot, finely diced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
85g fresh breadcrumbs

If buying live snails, they first need to be purged. Place in a large bowl with a tablespoon of salt and 3 tablespoons of vinegar. Stir well then cover with a lid, with a weight on top, and soak for 3 hours, stirring occasionally. Wash the snails well in cold water, rinsing three times, to remove all the gunge they produce.

Heat a large pan of water then when boiling, add the snails and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain, refresh in cold running water then when cool, remove the snails from their shells, using a small skewer or hat pin, discarding the small black part at the end of the tail. If you buy cultivated snails they do not need purging or boiling, they are ready to use for the recipe.

Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4. Gently fry the snails in 20g of the butter, add the mixed herbs and a quarter of the garlic, stir and place to one side.

In a bowl, mix the remaining butter to a soft consistency with the parsley, remaining garlic, shallot and seasoning.

In each snail shell place some of this herb butter then a snail and more butter, just to the top, and finish with a pinch of breadcrumbs.

Place the shells in a snail baking dish, breadcrumb-side up, and bake for 4-5 minutes. Serve immediately.

Lemon tart

Region: Cote D'Azur

Think sweet, crumbling pastry filled with rich, creamy citrus custard. The two marry together like heaven in the delicious, classic dessert, which is served all over France.

Serves 4-6

Preparation: 40 minutes, plus 1 hour for chilling the pastry

Cooking: 1 hour

For the pastry:

150g plain flour
75g cold butter, cut into small pieces
25g caster sugar
1 large egg

For the filling:

2 eggs
50g caster sugar
175ml double cream
juice and grated zest of 2 lemons
sifted icing sugar, for dusting

For the pastry, place the flour and butter in a bowl and rub together quickly using your finger tips until the mixture resembles the texture of breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and mix through. Whisk the egg, then stir into the pastry mix using a round-bladed knife to form a dough ball. Wrap in clingfilm and chill in the fridge for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 190C/Gas 5. Place the chilled pastry on a work surface, press out with the heel of your hand, then roll out to fit a 23cm loose-based flan tin. Do not stretch the pastry to fit. Trim away the excess from around the edge, then prick the base with a fork. Line the pastry case with baking parchment and fill with baking beans, then cook for 20 minutes.

Reduce the oven temperature to 160C/Gas 3. Remove the beans and baking parchment and return the flan case to the oven to bake for a further 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the filling. Whisk the eggs and caster sugar, then add all but 2 tablespoons of the cream, and the lemon juice and zest, and mix together. Pour into the prepared pastry case and cook for 10 minutes. Swirl in the remaining cream to create a marbled effect, then continue to cook for a further 20 minutes until the filling is just set.

Leave to cool and dust with sifted icing sugar before serving.

Lamb shanks with broad beans

Region: Provence

Serves 4

Preparation: 45 minutes

Cooking: 1 hour 20 minutes

1 tbs olive oil
4 lamb shanks
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 red onions, sliced
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 fresh bouquet garni (sprig each of parsley and thyme, and a bay leaf)
400ml white wine
400g new potatoes
400g shelled broad beans, individually skinned (see below)
2 tbs chopped fresh mint
3 tbs crème fraîche

Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4. Lightly oil a roasting tin, add the lamb shanks and season, then place in the oven to roast for 20 minutes.

Add the onions, garlic and bouquet garni to the roasting tin and roast for a further 20 minutes.

Add the wine and new potatoes to the lamb, mix well with the juices and return to the oven for a further 20 minutes.

Add the prepared beans and return to the oven for 10 minutes.

When the lamb is cooked through, remove from the roasting tin and keep warm.

Place the tin directly on the stove top and bring the juices to a simmer. Stir in the chopped mint and crème fraîche.

Serve the lamb shanks in wide bowls and ladle in the vegetables and juice.

Note: to skin fresh broad beans, plunge them into a pan of boiling water for 4 minutes, then drain and peel off the skins. If using frozen beans they can be peeled once defrosted.

New season garlic soup with poilâne toast

Region: Aquitaine

Serves 4

Preparation: 15 minutes

Cooking: 40 minutes

2 new season garlic bulbs
175ml olive oil
125g bacon, chopped
125g potato, chopped
1.5 litres chicken or vegetable stock
bunch of fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 slices poilâne sourdough bread, toasted
bunch of fresh parsley, chopped

Crush, peel and chop the garlic and place in a saucepan with a little oil and all the bacon and potato. Sauté gently over a low heat for 8 minutes, without browning.

Add the stock, herbs and seasoning, bring to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the herbs and add the remaining oil. Blend rapidly with a hand-held electric blender until smooth and emulsified. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.

To serve, place half a slice of the toasted bread in each soup bowl, top with chopped parsley and ladle over the soup.

Braised partridge and puy lentil pot

Region: Paris

This method of cooking partridge brings out the best of all the different ingredient flavours. Puy lentils are famous in France; they are a beautiful colour with a slightly sweet taste. They keep their shape and don't disintegrate with cooking.

Serves 4

Preparation: 15 minutes

Cooking: 1 hour 10 mins

2 tbs olive oil
1 red onion, diced
2 garlic cloves
125g smoked lardons or streaky bacon
500g puy lentils
200ml red wine
1 bouquet garni
4 partridges
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
25g butter
2 carrots, sliced
100 ml water
4 celery sticks, halved lengthways
4 spring onions, trimmed
bunch of fresh parsley, chopped, to garnish

Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4. Heat the oil in a large, low-sided ovenproof casserole, add the onion, garlic and lardons or bacon and gently sauté until soft. Add the lentils, wine and bouquet garni, then add enough water to cover the lentils. Place the partridges on top, season and cover with a lid. Cook in the oven for 1 hour, or until cooked through.

Meanwhile, heat the butter in a pan, add the carrots and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the water, celery and spring onions and bring to the boil.

Remove the partridge from the oven, increase the temperature to 220C/Gas 7 and add the sautéed vegetables and juices to the casserole, around the birds. Return the uncovered casserole to the oven for 10 minutes.

Serve the partridge on top of the lentils and vegetables, spoon over any cooking juices and garnish with chopped parsley.

Capital salad - a Parisian speciality

Region: Paris

Serves 4

Preparation: 20 minutes

Cooking: 20 minutes

300g waxy, firm-fleshed salad potatoes
4 eggs
200g smoked lardons or streaky bacon, chopped
olive oil, for frying
1 head escarole or frisée lettuce, separated and washed
bunch of fresh chervil
200g artichoke hearts (canned or freshly prepared)

For the vinaigrette dressing:

2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tbs red wine vinegar
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tbs olive oil

Cook the potatoes in simmering water for 20 minutes, or until tender, then drain and slice. Meanwhile, heat another pan of water and, when just simmering, add the eggs. Bring to the boil for 30 seconds, place a lid on top then remove from the heat and leave to sit for six minutes. Rinse in cold water and, when cool enough to handle, shell the eggs.

Fry the lardons or streaky bacon in a pan with a scant amount of oil, until golden.

For the dressing, put the mustard, crushed garlic and vinegar in a large salad bowl, blend well and season.

Slowly drizzle in the olive oil and whisk to blend.

Tear the lettuce leaves and half the chervil into the vinaigrette and toss well. Add half the potatoes, the artichoke hearts and lardons and toss again.

Roughly tear the soft-boiled eggs in half and place on top of the salad. Season to taste and scatter with the remaining chervil before serving.

Duck rillettes with green peppercorns

Region: Aquitaine

Traditionally this is a dish that is made with the carcass of a bird. However, this is made with duck legs as it yields more than the traditional one, but do try making it with duck carcasses if you ever have some left over.

Serves 4

Preparation: 15 minutes, plus 1 hour setting time

Cooking: 2 and 1/2 hours

3 duck legs
300g pork belly
200ml white wine
2 garlic cloves, whole and unpeeled
1 tsp crushed mustard seeds
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp fresh green peppercorns, drained
toasted bread slices, to serve

Preheat the oven to 150C/Gas 2. Place the duck and pork in a roasting pan, add the wine, garlic cloves, mustard seeds and seasoning and stir well. Cover with foil and place the oven to cook for 2 1/2 hours.

Remove the pan from the oven and pour off the fat through a sieve set over a bowl. Place the meat in a separate bowl and set aside until cool enough to handle.

Remove the skin and bones from the duck and shred the meat by hand. Remove the rind and any small bones from the pork and again shred the meat.

Mix well in a bowl, add the peppercorns, then place the mixture in a terrine, pressing down with your hand.

Heat the fat again and pass through a piece of muslin to strain. Pour the fat over the meat, making a thin layer on top. Place in the fridge to set for at least 1 hour. It can be stored for up to 1 week. Serve at room temperature with toasted bread.

Fish stew from the Charente

Region: Ile de Re

The secret here is the freshness and quality of the fish, so that the dish remains uncomplicated and tastes delicious.

Serves 4

Preparation: 25 minutes

Cooking: 30 minutes

400g potatoes
2 tomatoes
400g mussels, cleaned and washed
250g courgettes, thickly sliced
2 onions, thinly sliced
4 x 125g pieces turbot fillet
4 x 125g bass fillets
125g raw langoustines
200ml white wine
2 tbs olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
85g cold butter, cut into small pieces
large bunch of fresh parsley, chopped

Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4. Boil the potatoes in their skins for 10 minutes then when cool enough to handle, peel each potato and cut into about 4 slices.

Make a nick in the skin of each tomato, plunge into a bowl of boiling water for 12 seconds, then remove and, when cool enough to handle, peel, deseed, then chop.

Discard any mussels that are even just slightly open or damaged and do not close when tapped against the side of the sink.

Spread the potatoes, courgettes and onions in a large ovenproof dish, arrange the fish and shellfish over the top, then add the tomatoes, wine, olive oil and seasoning. Cover and bake for 15 minutes.

Remove the stew from the oven and lift out the fish and vegetables on to hot plates. Discard any mussels that have not opened.

Pour the cooking liquor into a pan and bring to the boil. Add the pieces of butter and whisk generously to emulsify, making a thin sauce.

Pour over the fish and serve sprinkled with the chopped parsley.

Sautéed clam salad

Region: Ile de Re

Of all the places I've visited in France, the Ile de Ré is where I have eaten the best seafood, and it comes straight from the fisherman's boat to the kitchen. If you see fresh-from-the-sea clams on sale, snap them up and make this simple summer recipe that is packed with sunshine and the delicious sweet-salty flavours of the sea. Great served with sourdough bread.

Serves 4

Preparation: 25 minutes

Cooking: 20 minutes

1kg clams
25g butter
100g lardons or diced streaky bacon
2 shallots, chopped
1 garlic clove
100ml dry white wine
300g rocket, washed
bunch of fresh parsley, chopped
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

First purge the clams. Fill the sink with cold water, add the clams, stir around and leave to soak for 10 minutes. Drain and repeat with fresh water until all the sand is washed out of the clams. Place in a colander and leave to drain for 5 minutes. Discard any clams that are even slightly open or damaged and do not close when tapped against the side of the sink.

Heat the butter in a large, shallow pan, add the lardons or bacon and cook until golden. Reduce the heat, add the shallots and garlic and gently sauté for 5 minutes until soft. Add the white wine and clams, increase the heat and cook with a lid on the pan for five minutes, until all the clams are open. Discard any that have not opened.

Using a draining spoon remove the clams from the cooking liquor. Increase the heat and reduce the liquor by half.

Place the rocket in a large bowl, add the clams, parsley and seasoning and toss through the leaves. Pour over the reduced cooking juices, toss again and serve immediately.

Herrings with potato salad

Region: Paris

Rich herring fillets swathed in oil and served with potatoes make a classic bistro dish. The French smooth-skinned La Ratte is a good variety of potato to use as it holds its shape well on boiling, but any waxy variety such as Belle de Fontenay (also French) Charlotte or Pink Fir Apple would also be good choices.

Serves 6

Preparation: 25 minutes, plus 12 hours soaking and 12 hours marinating

Cooking: about 18 minutes

500g herrings, filleted
milk, to cover herrings
500ml grapeseed oil
1 clove
5g peppercorns
1 star anise
2 bay leaves
1 sprig of fresh thyme
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 carrot, thinly sliced
400g waxy potatoes
mustard vinaigrette, to serve

Soak the herring fillets in milk overnight or for 12 hours. Drain and discard the milk.

Lay the herrings in a shallow dish, pour over the oil and add the spices, bay leaves and thyme. Place the onion and carrot in a layer on top, cover and marinate in the fridge for 12 hours.

Cook the potatoes in their skins for 18 minutes or until tender, cool and cut into 1cm slices.

Serve the potatoes with a mustard vinaigrette spooned over and the marinated herring fillets.

Cheesy potato gratin

Region: Rhône-Alpes

All across the Alps variations of this tartiflette are served with the addition of local mountain hams, lardons, local cheeses or mushrooms from the forests.

Serves 4

Preparation: 30 minutes

Cooking: 45 minutes

1.5kg potatoes, peeled
1 tbs olive oil
1 onion, sliced
200g smoked streaky bacon, chopped
sprig of fresh thyme
100ml white wine
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 garlic clove, crushed
500g piece of Reblochon cheese

Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4. Cook the potatoes in a large pan of boiling water for 15 minutes, until just soft. Drain, and when they are cool enough to handle, slice.

Heat the olive oil and add the onion and bacon and cook until just golden. Add the thyme, wine and seasoning, simmer for 5 minutes, then remove the thyme sprig.

Rub the inside of an ovenproof dish with the crushed garlic, layer with half the potatoes, top with the bacon mixture and follow with the remaining potatoes, making another layer.

Place the whole piece of cheese in the centre of the dish on top of the potatoes. Cook in the oven for 25 minutes until golden.

Eggs in snow

Region: Paris

Soft marshmallow-like meringues sitting in a pond of crème Anglaise and then drizzled with sweet caramel make this a marriage of gentle flavours and creamy textures. I love the method of cooking the meringue - it is perfect, easy, and works every time.

Serves 6

Preparation: 20 minutes

Cooking: 15 minutes

For the crème Anglaise:

15g pistachio nuts (optional)
4 large egg yolks
115g caster sugar
500ml milk

For the meringues:

4 large egg whites
pinch of salt
160g icing sugar

For the caramel:

50g caster sugar
3 dsp water
10g crushed pink pralines, to decorate (optional)

First make the crème Anglaise. Crush the pistachios, if using, in a food processor to make a paste. Mix the egg yolks and sugar in a heatproof bowl for 5 minutes.

Bring the milk to the boil in a pan. Off the heat, pour the milk into the beaten egg mixture and stir with a wooden spoon. Return this to the pan and, over a very low heat, stir constantly for about 10 minutes until the mixture thickens, but do not allow to boil. Stir in the pistachio paste, if using, then strain the custard through a fine sieve and cool.

Now make the meringues. Using an electric mixer, whisk the egg whites with the salt until white and stiff. Add the sugar and whisk. Divide the mixture between six unlined ramekins (do not fear they will not come out) and microwave in a 650-700 watt microwave oven for 40-60 seconds until pillow-soft, like marshmallows. Leave to cool.

To make the caramel, heat the sugar in a pan with the water until it turns into a light caramel. Remove from the heat and cool

Divide the crème Anglaise between 6 dessert dishes. Place a snowy meringue in the centre of each and drizzle over a trail of cold caramel sauce and, if using, a sprinkle of crushed pralines.

Sea bass with seasoned vegetables

Region: Aquitaine

Sea bass has such a delicate flavour; this simple method of cooking is ideal for this fine fish. Roseval potatoes, from France, have a vivid carmine skin that contrasts with the yellow, waxy flesh, often with a pink blush. They have a truly superb flavour, but any other small variety of potato could be used if you cannot source them.

Serves 4

Preparation: 10 minutes

Cooking: 45 minutes

4 tbs olive oil
1kg Roseval potatoes, or other small variety, cut into wedges
2 garlic bulbs
6 carrots, peeled and cut into lengths
3 leeks, trimmed and cut into lengths
bunch of parsley stalks
1 x 2kg whole sea bass or 2 smaller ones, gutted
1 lemon, sliced
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4. Pour the oil into a large roasting pan and toss the potatoes in the oil. Cut the garlic bulbs in half across their width and add to the pan. Place the pan in the oven and cook for 20 minutes. Add the carrots to the potatoes for the last 10 minutes of their cooking time.

Remove the pan from the oven and set aside the garlic bulbs. Add the leeks and parsley stalks to the pan and stir the vegetables to mix.

Place the sea bass on top of the vegetables and stuff the cavity with garlic cloves and sliced lemon. Season and cover with baking parchment. Bake for 12-15 minutes, then remove the paper and cook for a further 10 minutes, until the fish and potatoes are tender.

• From New Bistro by Fran Warde, Mitchell Beazley, £20. To order a copy for £18 with free UK p&p go to www.observer.co.uk/bookshop or call 0330 333 6847