Annabelle Thorpe 

Autumn walking weekends

We ask experts from eight of Britain's National Parks where they would pick for a November hike
  
  

north york moors
The view towards Swainby and Whorlton from Cleveland Way in the North York Moors National Park. Photograph: PR

PEAK DISTRICT

Sean Prendergast, Chief Ranger

Most people fail to realise that there are two Peak Districts: White Peak and Dark Peak. The names refer to the difference in stone – the gritstone area to the north has dark moorlands, heather and rough grazing; the southern White Peak area has more pastoral landscapes, limestone walls and much lighter grass.

For a walk that allows you to experience both, base yourself in the village of Castleton, in the White Peak, and walk to the top of Mam Tor, in the Dark Peak. Follow the footpath signs from Peak Cavern in the middle of the village and you begin by walking along limestone paths and up by a road that was devastated by major landslides in the 70s. It's a continual, but gradual, ascent from there, past the Blue John Mine, until you reach the steps that mark the final climb to the ridge of Mam Tor. It's doable for families, although a fair old puff on the lungs, and when you get to the top there are stunning views over Edale and the Hope Valley. At this time of year you can look down at the clouds below.

Continue along the ridge and there is a signposted path heading down Lose Hill – named after a seventh-century king of Northumberland who camped his army on these slopes, while the victorious king of Mercia's army camped on the slopes of, predictably, Win Hill, to the east. The route brings you back into Castleton, and although it's only a four-mile round trip, I'd allow four hours, as the ascents can be taxing.

EAT: the recently renovated Bull's Head (01433 620256; bullsheadcastleton.co.uk) has retained a proper pub feel, with homecooking to match: hefty roasts and meats from local farms

SLEEP: Ye Old Nags Head (01433 620248; yeoldenagshead.co.uk) is a 17th-century coaching inn with country-style bedrooms, some with four-poster beds. Doubles from £65 including breakfast

MAPS: for more details and to download walking maps see visitpeakdistrict.com/see/castleton.aspx

INFORMATION: peakdistrict.gov.uk

BRECON BEACONS

Helen Pye, Assistant Area Warden

The southern side of the Brecon Beacons is home to some beautiful waterfalls, and at this time of year the Afon Mellte river is quite high so they are particularly spectacular. Park in the Gwaun Hepste car park, not far from the village of Ystradfellte, and follow the Four Falls Trail, signposted in red, through conifer woodland, before heading downhill and over a crossroads. A couple of minutes after that you reach the first waterfall, Sgwd Clun Gwyn, which is nearly 30m high. There's a cliff overlooking the fall which is a great spot for taking photos.

From there, the trail carries on through oak woodland. Look to the right while walking along this stretch and you can see down into a deep gorge famed for its rare moss and lichens. The second fall, Sgwd y Pannwr, is reachable by a circular detour, signed in green: it takes about an hour and a half and is a steep climb back up, but it's a lovely spot. Once back on the path, you climb to the top of the gorge, from where there are awesome views across the Neath Valley.

At the top there is another green signpost, to spectacular Sgwd y Eira. When you reach the river you can walk across the rocks and follow a path that takes you right behind the waterfall itself. The walk back up is steep, and when you reach the top you simply follow the red path back to the original crossroads and on through the conifer woodland to the car park. It's around four or five miles – don't forget to take your camera.

EAT: The Old White Horse Inn (01639 721219) in Pontneddfechan is traditional and welcoming, with roaring log fires and a good line in hefty pub grub

SLEEP: Beili Helyg (01685 813609; walkingwalesholidays.co.uk) in nearby Penderyn is an 18th-century farmhouse with barns that have been converted into luxy B&B accommodation, with doubles from £70

MAPS: Trail maps are available from the Waterfalls Centre in Pontneddfechan (01639 721795)

INFORMATION: breconbeacons.org

NORTH YORK MOORS

Simon Bassindale, Senior Ranger

The Hambleton drovers' road is a treat on a clear, bright winter's day when the grass is crisp underfoot and there's a touch of low-lying mist to add to the atmosphere. You start in the lovely old village of Osmotherley, where Methodism founder John Wesley once held forth from on top of a market stall.

The Cleveland Way runs out of the town and takes you up through the twisted oaks of Arncliffe Wood on to Scarth Wood Moor, which has fantastic views over the Cleveland plain and the hills beyond. The next leg of the walk lies along Hambleton Street. In 1322 Robert the Bruce marched his troops into battle along this ancient ridgeway, and two centuries ago it was an important trading route along which Scottish drovers brought their livestock to English markets. The former Chequers Inn is now a tea shop, if you fancy a pitstop.

The walk ends with a gentle descent into Oakdale and a stroll through fields and woods back into Osmotherley, six-and-a-half miles in all. If you want to lengthen the walk, there is a mile-long circular detour up to the ruins of Mount Grace Priory, along a track just beyond Siddle Farm, a short walk west of Osmotherley. The former monastery is a beautiful and atmospheric ruin, but it is only open from Thursdays-Sundays in the winter.

EAT: the Golden Lion (see below) does the best food in Osmotherley, but if you're after simple pub grub the bar at the friendly Queen Catherine Hotel (01609 883209; queencatherinehotel.co.uk) is a good place to warm up

SLEEP: the Golden Lion (01609 883526; goldenlionosmotherley.co.uk) is renowned for its elegant bistro, but also has three sleek bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms and bespoke oak furniture. Doubles from £90

MAPS: For details of similar walks visit nationaltrail.co.uk/clevelandway

INFORMATION: northyorkmoors.org.uk

NEW FOREST

Martin O'Neill, Director of Visitor Services

The Solent Way is a 60-mile route along the south coast, but it can easily be done in sections. One of the most stunning stretches is from Keyhaven to Lymington, which can be done as a six-mile circular walk. It's ideal in winter because it runs past lagoons that are home to overwintering birds: lapwings, curlews, egrets and redshanks along with Canada and Brent geese.

The best way to do it is start in Keyhaven: park at the Gun Inn (ideal for a restorative meal when you return) and follow the signposted trail. It's an easy, flat route but the views make it special – on one side you're looking out across the water to the Isle of Wight, while on the other the forest stretches away to the horizon. One of the nicest things is that at various places along the walk, the forest almost comes down to the coast and you will often see New Forest ponies grazing right by the sea.

Once you reach Lymington, you can either simply walk the route back again, or take a circular route through the village of Lower Pennington, past Oxey Marsh and on to an ancient highway that brings you back into Keyhaven.

EAT: the Gun Inn at Keyhaven (01590 642391) is the place for a post-walk nip; choose from 240 malt whiskies. The food is solid pub grub in impressive portions – the crab sandwiches are spectacular

STAY: Stanwell House (01590 677123; stanwellhousehotel.co.uk) is an elegant boutique hotel in Lymington. Its 27 stylish rooms come with Molton Brown toiletries, roll-top baths and flat-screen TVs. Doubles from £138 including breakfast

MAPS: for this route and similar walks in the area go to tinyurl.com/ycev3wn

INFORMATION: newforestnpa.gov.uk

EXMOOR

Nigel Stone, Chief Executive, Exmoor National Park Authority

There is a fantastic walk starting in Dunster, one of the most beautiful villages in England and the gateway to Exmoor National Park. Turn into the town from the A39, take the first turning into a car park and the walk is signposted from there. It's a figure-of-eight route that takes you through the Castle Deer Park – home to red and fallow deer – up through woods, across the moor and back through the village itself. The first point of interest is the Gallox Bridge – an ancient packhorse bridge – and then you head up through Dunster Woodlands to the tall trees trail. This goes past the tallest trees in England and Wales – a series of Douglas firs planted in the 1870s, which are now more than 60m high.

From there it's a slow climb of around 300m to the Iron Age Hill forts of Bat's Castle and Gallax Hill, before you drop down to stroll past the dovecotes, tithe barns and medieval churches that line the streets of Dunster.

It's an ideal family walk, and great at this time of year because the woods provide shelter against the elements and the autumn colours can be breathtaking. It's around five-and-a-half miles but if you just want to walk up to the tall trees and back, there are lots of trails that offer shorter options.

EAT: the Luttrell Arms (01643 821555; luttrellarms.co.uk), parts of which date from the 15th century, has a renowned formal restaurant and a cosy bar area where simpler food is served

SLEEP: winner of South West Tourism's B&B of the year for 2008/9, Spears Cross (01643 821439; spearscross.co.uk) is a 15th-century country house with four bedrooms and breakfasts made with local produce. Doubles from £79

MAPS: exmoor-nationalpark.gov. uk/walk-dunster

INFORMATION: exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk

LAKE DISTRICT

Richard Fox, project manager, fix the fells

At this time of year, nothing beats a walk along the shores of Ullswater. Start at Glenridding, and hop on the Ullswater steamer for the 35-minute trip to the quaint hamlet of Howtown (ullswater-steamers.co.uk); from there walk back to Glenridding, along a wonderful six-and-a-half mile route that hugs the lakeside.

As you step off the jetty at Howtown, take the footpath immediately on your right, and follow it, keeping the lake on your right all the way. The first couple of kilometres are right by the water's edge, and you can see across the lake to the picturesque village of Pooley Bridge and wooded Dunmallard Hill. It's not a strenuous path, but it is undulating – so trainers or walking shoes are a must. Soon you will enter a semi-natural woodland (great shelter if bad weather sets in), which is abundant with red squirrels and birdlife – listen out for nuthatches and tree creepers.

Then cross an open field for around 300m before crossing Sandwick Beck bridge (look out for dippers). Then you pick up a bridleway that hugs a wall for another couple of kilometres, before opening out to the lakeside again – there are vantage points along the way, with fantastic lake views. Continue on, passing in and out of trees, until you come to a farm. Turn right, cross the valley and join the footpath than runs alongside the main road. From here it's 1km back to Glenridding.

EAT: There is no pub on the route, but for a post-walk pint, turn left after the farm at the main road, and after 400m you'll get to the White Lion Inn at Patterdale (017684 82214), famed for its chunky steaks and well-kept ales

STAY: For this walk, the Glenridding Hotel (01768 482228; theglenriddinghotel.co.uk), in the heart of the village, couldn't be better located. It has doubles from £55, including breakfast

MAPS: For maps and details of similar walks visit ullswater.co.uk

INFORMATION: lakedistrict.gov.uk

CAIRNGORMS

Eric Baird, Head Ranger, Glen Tanar

The Old Forest Walk in Glen Tanar is one of the best routes for an autumn stroll. The walk is five or six miles long, on a well-marked path that winds through the old Caledonian pine forest that once covered the whole of Scotland. It's a breathtakingly beautiful place, inhabited by red squirrels and Scottish crossbills, red and roe deer, and otters and salmon in the Water of Tanar.

The walk is signposted from the car park near the Braeloine Visitor Centre, which has maps, trail guides and local information, and is open throughout the year. Follow the path through the forest and out along the banks of the Water of Tanar, which is a tumbling highland river filled with boulders, deep pools and small waterfalls. The route takes in the small Chapel of St Lesmo and then climbs slightly to the Knockie, a fantastic viewpoint across the pinewoods. Head downhill and as you walk through the glen you'll cross beautiful old stone bridges over Allachy Water and the Tanar.

The path forks after an old stone shed; turn left and you head down to the villages of Aboyne and Dinnet, but the waymarked trail continues to the right, through grassy fields and close to the banks of the Tanar before returning to the Braeoline Visitor Centre. It's an ideal walk for this time of year because the forest is evergreen, giving plenty of shelter, and you can divert to Aboyne or Dinnet for a pub lunch.

EAT: the Boat Inn (013398 86137; boatinnaboyne.co.uk) in Aboyne is a traditional inn with an excellent restaurant serving locally sourced steak, fish and cheeses

SLEEP: Loch Kinord Hotel (01339 885229; lochkinord.com) in Dinnet village has roaring log fires in the lounge, a two AA-rosette restaurant and comfortable rooms from £95 including breakfast

MAPS: the Braeloine Visitor Centre (013398 86072) has walking maps, or download details from walkhighlands.co.uk/cairngorms/glen-tanar.shtml

INFORMATION: cairngorms.co.uk

SNOWDONIA

Rhys Gwyn, Area Warden

Most walks in Snowdonia involve fairly steep ascents, but the four-and-a-half mile circular walk from the valley of Cwm yr Wnin to Foel Ispri is very gradual, even though it does reach the 629m peak of Y Garn. To get to the start, drive out of Dolgellau on the A70 and half a mile after crossing a roundabout towards Porthmadog, take a left turn and follow the track until you see a small parking space just before a farm gate. Opposite this is a kissing gate, which marks the beginning of the walk.

The path rises up through conifer woodland and out on to open mountainside that looks north up the Mawddach valley and the forest of Coed-y-Brenin. Follow the wall to the left until you come to a high stile of six or seven steps, from where you head west to the summit of Y Garn. The view is stunning, taking in the Rhinogydd mountains, with the peak of Cader Idris in the south and the Aran mountains to the east. When you've taken in the view, head in a southerly direction down towards the Mawddach valley, over the stiles and gates down to Foel Ispri, famed as the heart of the Welsh gold mining industry. A public right of way then takes you on through a farm and back to where you parked.

EAT: Tyn-y-Groes(01341 440275; tynygroes.com), just outside Dolgellau, is a traditional, unfussy Welsh pub and hotel specialising in local produce, with a crackling log fire to revive even the chilliest of walkers.

SLEEP: a former slate-cutting mill, Graig Wen (01341 250482; graigwen.co.uk) offers top-notch B&B, cottages and a campsite with yurts (perhaps better suited to warmer months) close to the Mawddach estuary. Doubles cost from £70 including breakfast

MAPS: for details of similar walks see tinyurl.com/y8kcuve

INFORMATION: snowdonia-npa.gov.uk

• For information on all Britain's national parks visit nationalparks.gov.uk

 

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