Tony Naylor 

York’s top 10 budget restaurants and cafes

Tony Naylor heads to York to seek out the the best affordable food in the city's restaurants and delis
  
  

Henshelwoods, York
Henshelwoods in York is the perfect place to pick up a superior takeaway. Photograph: Nick Robinson Photograph: Nick Robinson

Henshelwoods

You can find everything from fresh Longley Farm curds to Yorkshire-grown chillies on the shelves of this busy delicatessen, but for the visitor it's an excellent place to pick up a superior takeaway sandwich or a slice of homemade quiche. Ingredients, such as Mrs Appleby's Lancashire cheese and Whitby crab, are first-rate, as are the breads. Salad boxes are available in which you can mix 'n' match deli counter items and to which, if that feels a bit too virtuous, you can add a pork pie.
• Sandwiches from £2.35. 10 Newgate, +44 (0)1904 673877; deliyork.co.uk

Melton's Too 

A spin-off from chef Michael Hjort's well-regarded Melton's restaurant, 'MToo' sees the Hjort ethos - precise treatment of seasonal, local produce - applied in a more informal setting. A tastefully renovated 17th-century workshop, Melton's Too is nowadays split between a cosy ground-floor cafe-bar, first-floor bistro and further events space, the eating options evolving with the day. It is a great, sedate place to linger over a late breakfast (until 12.30pm). Try the light, creamy, intensely buttery scrambled eggs with stridently smoked Whitby salmon. Later, snack on tapas, or give the globally-inspired bistro dishes a spin. Typically, the menu might range from Peruvian beef dish, huatia, to roast squash and courgette ravioli with pesto. Express one-course lunch, £6.90, until 5pm. 
• Brunch/tapas dishes from £3; mains from £10.80. 25 Walmgate, +44 (0)1904 629222; meltonstoo.co.uk

J Baker's Bistro Moderne 

Be in no doubt, Jeff Baker takes his food very seriously. Its delivery, however, is fun and democratic. At lunch, thrill-seekers can cherry pick from a grazing menu of small and large plates, that proves a very cost-effective way of sampling food of real ambition and quality. At £6.95, Baker's signature Whitby crab salad - the crab accompanied by a citrussy, avocado creme fraiche "sorbet" and Indian spiced quavers - is, if not quite a steal, then certainly a very pleasant way to spend seven quid. The arrival, meanwhile, of an amuse bouche of tiny baked potatoes, served in a paper bag, alongside a little smoked salt and a generous slick of anchovy and black olive butter, is, at these prices, genuinely amusing. The service is warm and appealing, too.  
• Lunch dishes from £3.75. 7 Fossgate, +44 (0)1904 622688; jbakers.co.uk

The Hairy Fig 

The Fig claims it sells York's finest pork pie. Certainly, it is a mighty fine pastry product. Delivered fresh daily from the village of Bubwith - that is as much as the Fig will reveal - said pies feature supremely tasty, properly chunky mild-cured pork encased in supremely thin, crisp pastry. The Fig also sells Pieminister pies; its own cakes; various olives and cured meats; speciality breads baked in York; and Ampleforth cider (1 litre, £5.95), making it a great place to stock up for a picnic.  
• Pork pies from £1.30. 39 Fossgate, +44 (0)1904 677074; thehairyfig.co.uk.
 

Il Paradiso del Cibo 

With its scuffed lino, cheap, mix 'n' match furniture and Juventus memorabilia, Paolo Silesu's tiny Italian feels, quite deliberately, like some family-run back street restaurant in Turin or Rome. Silesu isn't interested in interior design, but in serving good, unfussy food at knockdown prices. Indeed, Il Paradiso has become something of a word-of-mouth sensation, not just among students enjoying £6.25 pizzas and pasta dishes, but local foodies, too. Look to the specials board for, say, a rustic plate of fat, perfectly cooked sardines, salad and red pesto (£4.50), or oven-baked sea bream with mussels and king prawns in a mixed herb, wine, garlic and lemon sauce (£11.50). Friendly, bright service, too.
 • Dishes from £3.95. 40 Walmgate, +44 (0)1904 611444

The Bar Convent Cafe 

The oldest working Roman Catholic convent in Britain, which "Welcomes visitors of ALL faiths and none", is also home to a useful cafe. The decor is a little drab and municipal, but the adjacent gardens and the tiled Victorian entrance hall lift the space. Choose from sensational cakes; interesting sandwiches (pastrami and sweet red pepper tapenade, for instance); simple, tasty eats like Welsh rarebit topped with caramelised onions; and daily specials such as beef bourguignon.
• Light lunches from £4.25, specials from £8.75. 17 Blossom Street, +44 (0)1904 464910; bar-convent.org.uk
 

The Pig & Pastry  

The locals' favourite for breakfast, brunch and (late) lunch, just outside the city walls, and thus off the natural tourist trail. It's an attractive space - big, chunky tables; a low counter laden with glossy, sexy cakes; huge plumes of dried peppers hanging in the windows - which chef-owner Steve Holding ensures delivers on its appetising promise. Squeeze on the end of a table, and tuck into good, crowd-pleasing dishes like pork belly cassoulet or Bleiker's kippers with brown bread. Attentive cooking and first-rate local ingredients mean that even the simplest items shine. The Pig's bacon butties, for instance, are exemplary.   
• Sandwiches from £3, meals around £5-8. 35 Bishopthorpe Road, +44 (0)1904 675115
 

Cafe No.8 Bistro 

This buzzy, casual eaterie has the looks of a 1930s diner, complete with Ella Fitzgerald jazzing it up over the PA. Thankfully, however, the food is thoroughly 21st-century. The emphasis is on Yorkshire ingredients, sensitively treated. Whether you're just dropping in for a bowl of soup - a warming, gently fiery Indian spiced tomato and ginger, say - or a 21-day aged steak with chips and a Yorkshire blue sauce, expect cooking shot through with a quiet, self-confident flare. Look out for the guest beers, like Rudgate's Camra champion, Ruby mild (£3.60).  
• Daytime dishes from £4.95. 8 Gillygate, +44 (0)1904 653074; cafeno8.co.uk
 

Goji 

For years, El Piano - an elaborately tiled, tapas-dispensing slice of Andalusia in Yorkshire (tapas dishes £3.95; 15-17 Grape Lane, +44 (0)1904 610676; el-piano.com) - has ruled the local vegetarian scene. Now, there is a new kidney bean on the block, Goji delicatessen and cafe. Taking a less eccentric line than its erstwhile competitor, Goji is good for soups, quiches, homebaked cakes (including a decent waffle with hot chocolate sauce and ice-cream). The speciality cafetiere coffees, however, were a disappointment.  
• Snacks from £1.50, larger dishes from £7.25. 36 Goodramgate, +44 (0)1904 622614; gojicafe.co.uk
 

Le Langhe  

Located on one of York's less historic streets, just up the road from Allied Carpets, it would be easy to overlook Le Langhe. For local foodies, however, this deli-cafe is one of the city's most breathtaking sights. It is a treasure trove of artisan Italian produce - cured meats, imported cheeses, buckets of glistening olives and phalanxes of wine and olive oil cover every available surface. It can get expensive, particularly Thu-Sat evenings, when Le Langhe morphs into a restaurant proper. But, by day, you can pick up a fantastic sandwich – for instance, tart, smoky speck with rocket on a springy, chewy ciabatta from Le Langhe's bakery (£2.95) – or head into the elegant dining room for simple hot dishes, salads, and meat and cheese platters. 
• Starters from £3.95, pasta £8.95. The Old Coach House, Peasholme Green, +44 (0)1904 622584; lelanghe.co.uk
 
• Tony travelled to York with Northern Rail

This article was updated on 1 May 2012

 

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