11 Oxford Road, Hampton Poyle, Oxfordshire (01865 376242; thebellathamptonpoyle.co.uk)
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
It's after dark on a winter's night when we arrive in Kidlington, famous for the ridiculously named London Oxford Airport and for part-time resident Sir Richard Branson. Just up the road lies the village of Hampton Poyle and the Bell, a historic roadside inn. Treated to a £1m makeover last May, it is now a nine-room boutique hotel and gastropub. So far so very inviting, from the handwritten signs to the quaint exterior. A peephole window in the entrance hall gives a glimpse into a raging wood-fired pizza oven. Cheese-laden discs sizzle obligingly. Good food has already taken centre stage, and the herby aromas of pizzas and meaty sauces stoke my appetite.
At reception, we're given a warm welcome and a miniature thermos of chilled milk for the room. (Tripadvisor complaints about a lack of milk for tea and coffee have clearly been heeded.) A peek at the bar area reveals a couple of stylish and relaxed nooks overlooking the semi-open kitchen, and some cosy snugs in the oldest part of the building, which dates from the mid-1700s.
THE ROOMS
Our room, a "house double", is spacious and light, with a wonderfully comfortable king-size bed draped in Egyptian cotton. Yet it fails to excite visually, with its neutral palette of creams and light blues, and an oddly honey-toned carpet. It feels a bit B&Q showroom, though the quality of the solid wood furnishings is high.
The indulgent bathroom is a different story, with contemporary beige tiles, a monsoon shower, Duravit fittings and L'Occitane smellies. There is no bath; some rooms have roll-top baths, so check when booking if you favour a soak. All rooms have Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs with Freeview, and teas and freshly ground coffee. Our room is on the road side, but there is very little traffic noise and we sleep soundly.
THE FOOD
We navigate the Bell's varied menu from a relaxed table in the bar area. It is a grand tour in itself. Some dishes have an Asian streak, such as crispy duck salad with papaya and nam jim dressing; others are resolutely British, such as steak and pigeon pie. Then there are the French and Italian starters, the burgers and sharing platters, an impressive array of steaks (up to 14oz) and those pizzas – served "sensible" or "large". A menu this wide-ranging would normally set off alarm bells, yet everything we try is faultless, from the super-crisp garlic, parsley and mozzarella pizza bread to the chicken liver parfait with toasted sourdough, to the rump of local lamb and the tarte tatin with clotted cream ice cream. All are generously portioned and served promptly and piping hot. The dining room, with its flagstone floor and French grey walls, is packed with people enjoying themselves.
The standard is kept up at breakfast, which is huge and innovative. No need to battle over the single pain au chocolat: a Noah's Ark of pastries and sliced sourdough arrives on a wooden board, accompanied by fresh fruit.
THE VERDICT
Chef Adam Abbot's food steals the show here, while the rooms are comfortable if a little characterless. The Bell rightly prides itself on great food and personal service, while its position close to Blenheim Palace, Woodstock and Bicester Village will suit foodie weekenders and parents visiting student children. Rooms two and four are the nicest, while petite room nine works best if you're on your own.
THE RATE
Standard doubles £85, superior doubles £95 and "house doubles" £110, all including continental breakfast. Single occupancy from £65. Cooked breakfast £5 extra.
