MANORHAUS Well Street, Ruthin, Denbighshire, North Wales (01824 704 830; manorhaus.com)
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
I will admit to a twinge of doubt about manorhaus before I set off. There's something about the combination of the words "boutique" "art gallery" and "North Wales" that brings out my latent South Walian suspiciousness. (I'm from Cardiff, where it's traditional to regard North Wales in roughly the way the rest of Britain views Murmansk.)
And the website doesn't allay my fears: it's a city slickers' sort of a place, that looks to have been airlifted straight out of Shoreditch into Ruthin, an unassuming market town in the Vale of Clwyd, between Snowdonia and the English border. It seems to be all designer chairs and contemporary colour schemes, which doesn't conform to my city-dweller's ideas about the countryside at all: I expect flagstone floors and roaring log fires the minute I venture past the M25.
As it turns out, manorhaus does have a roaring log fire. And it is pretty slick – but in a warm-and-welcoming sort of a way. Gavin, an architect, and Chris, a musical director, bought the building – a fine Grade II-listed Georgian house – eight years ago, ripped out the "red and pink carpets and curtains", opened a restaurant that's become a hit in its own right, and have since turned it into a small but perfectly formed townhouse hotel.
THE ROOMS
Each of the eight rooms is different: some cutting-edge modern with statement purple chaise longues or outsized armchairs, while others (which personally I prefer) are more traditional, with warm colours and Welsh blankets. All are crisp and clean and adorned with works by different local artists. My favourite of these is Helen Jobs, who does moody landscapes of Welsh weather pouring over the Vale of Clwyd, a real-life version of which is visible through our window, over Ruthin's rooftops. It's all the little touches that make staying at manorhaus such a treat. There's a teeny-tiny gym, a sauna, a steam room, and a well-stocked library.
We raid the library for a walking guide and an OS map and then Chris gives us a lift down the road to the village of Graigfechan, a launching point for the Offa's Dyke footpath. This is a beautiful, ridgetop walk which eventually leads us back down to Graigfechan and the ancient, whitewashed Three Pigeons Inn.
THE FOOD
The only problem with manorhaus's food is that it's by far and away the best in these parts, meaning you might struggle to find another option if you stay a second night. So why fight it? The menu features the kind of high-quality, seasonal, local produce that you always hope to find but very rarely do. Gavin is Ruthin's mayor and is trying to guide the town towards sustainability. This shows on his menu: Pantysgawn goat's cheese trifle, Welsh black beef, and pork loin wrapped in Carmarthen ham. The icing on the cake (quite literally) is pudding – a chocolate mousse tart with pistachio ice-cream – which we have served in the comfortable screening room in the basement.
THE VERDICT
Truly, staying at manorhaus makes for a weekend with everything: log fires, bracing walks, fine food – and genuinely baffling conversation from the locals in the pub.
THE RATE
Doubles from £85, including breakfast. Dinner, bed and breakfast from £125.
