It is six years since I cabbed it from Kendal station to tiny Crosthwaite and the Punchbowl Inn, so new (well, newly tarted up) it still had a faint whiff of paint. Restaurant and bedrooms owed more to the Hotel du Vin school of interiors than fell walkers' spit'n'sawdust. Cumbria's most thoroughly modern boutique grub pub had opened its doors.
A company was formed, Punchbowl Inns, and last year added a second pub, The Plough at Lupton. Pub and restaurant opened in June 2010, joined, now, by five bedrooms (created from a previous 11) with a sixth – occupying the entire top floor, though there is nothing to look at as yet – still to complete.
Its location, the wonderfully named Cow Brow, on the A65, just off the M6, is easy to find. We wander into the bar (a pleasing mix of smooth slate, pale rugs, equestrian art and scrubbed wood) and find the restaurant at the rear (farmhouse chic, you might say – a farmhouse without the cobwebs and dog hairs – complete with two modern, glass-fronted wine caves). Hellooo. Anybody home?
Now we're being shown upstairs. Wi-Fi is free, carpet soft, windows dressed in blinds and curtains, complimentary tea and coffee can be ordered any time and there is a turn-down service. Whoopee.
"Wish I'd brought my essential oils," says Clare when she realises there isn't anything to put in her giant bath. If the perimeter shelf in my bathroom had been just a fraction wider, I could have put my toiletries on it, but the only real minus is the main road. I reckon the rooms at the rear would be quieter.
See you at seven. Clare sinks back on distressed leather and asks for "A light white." What I really (really) like is the option to keep costs down. There are three sizes of wine glass – a 125ml snifter starts at £2.60, or under £5 for prosecco. Same with the menu, which has "small plates" to order individually as starters or as a selection like tapas, plus mains.
Thunk goes the kitchen door as our small plates are ferried into the restaurant. Salt and pepper squid, confit tuna and red pepper rolls, king prawn tempura, beetroot with pine nuts, goat's cheese and rocket – none of which costs more than £4. "Not the tenderest," says Clare of the squid, but the prawns are "quite succulent". Great goat's cheese but oh – we wish we'd ordered far more of those tuna rolls. Thunk, thunk. Now Clare's digging in to confit duck leg with crushed potatoes, pak choi and sesame. "If I had my eyes closed, I'd think it was ham," she says. My pea and mint risotto is bright green and unlike any I've eaten before. The rice has lost its shape, something is giving me a bitter aftertaste, and there is a pointless, single broccoli floret lurking in the middle.
"This is going to be good," Clare says with an expectant glint. Berry and rhubarb crumble is enjoyably tart, while cranachan – piled, silkily, indulgently, into a little Kilner jar – is as sweet as you can go.
We reconvene, after plenty of sleep and power showers, in the bar's sunny comfort. Mmmm, summery – freshly made yoghurt with honey, and citrus fruit salad with lime granita. We can also report, when the cooked plates appear (thunk, thunk), that proper, meaty Cumberland sausage is alive and well and being served here, consistency restored by breakfast.
WHAT TO DO IN THE AREA – BY THE LOCALS
A good walk
Ingleton Falls at Ingleton, just outside Kirkby Lonsdale, is a fantastic walk for all the family, and it's dog-friendly. You follow a circular trail through woodland and you can see some unique geological features as well as rare birds and plants. At 4½ miles, the walk isn't too strenuous, and the real rewards are the truly spectacular waterfalls that drop 30 metres in places.
Abi Lloyd, Manager at The Plough at Lupton
You don't need to go into the heart of the Lake District to enjoy a good walk, yet most people turn left at junction 36 of the M6 and miss the great viewpoint that Farleton Knott can offer if you turn right. The impressive limestone pavement is clearly visible from the motorway and there is something oddly relaxing about looking down on to the busy M6 while you are climbing the 800ft peak (walking time: two hours) and feeling quite smug. Views at various points stretch toward the Howgill Fells, the Yorkshire Dales, Lancashire and the Lake District, and watch out for the paragliders who regularly take off from the summit.
Julie Darroch, owner of Lakes PR
There is no better time to visit the area than autumn, with the unparalleled scenes of mist-shrouded beauty, and, with a four-year-old and four-month-old twins, getting out and about is very important to us. There are some excellent local walks and one particular favourite is the languid amble over the stunning Barbon Fells – no problem at all for any of the family.
John Natlacen, owner of Churchmouse Cheeses independent cheese shop in Kirkby Lonsdale and winner of the 2010 Best New Cheese in Britain award
A spot of shopping
I'm sure a lot of people have heard of Ruskin's View and many make the trip to Kirkby Lonsdale specifically to gaze up the Lune Valley and see exactly why John Ruskin referred to it as "one of the loveliest scenes in England". However, after taking in the view, make sure you walk back down the side of the church to the whole new world of boutiquey shops, which is almost like taking a step back in time. There is a distinct lack of high street shops here – more a mix of real quality independents like Churchmouse Cheeses, Bijou Blue and the Bath House where we source all of the luxury toiletries for The Plough. AL
If you love the interiors at The Plough, then Dorothy Wightman's interior design barn, which is just next door to us on the A65, is definitely worth a visit. The designs and furnishings on offer include Dorothy's own signature range of antique lamps, gorgeous glassware and sumptuous towels, as well as fabrics from all of the top design houses. AL
Kirkby Lonsdale captured my heart when I first visited nearly 10 years ago, and it has gradually changed from being a proud little market town into the heart and soul of the south Lakes dining and drinking scene. There are eight great pubs serving good quality food and some of the finest real ales – many from the relatively new and award-winning Kirkby Lonsdale Brewery Company. But it's not all about the food – artists and art lovers will find much to enjoy here, from the wonderful Finestra Gallery, which showcases the work of many fine local painters, photographers and sculptors, to the newly relaunched Art Store. JN
A shoot to thrill
Clay pigeon shooting at Crabtree Farm, just a couple of minutes from The Plough, is a great fun activity for all ages. You can simply turn up with your gun (providing you have a licence) and shoot up to 100 birds from £17, or book specific packages such as those for first-timers and teams. It's a friendly family business run by Edward and his two sons, Derek and Jonty, and is open twice a week, on Wednesday and Saturday.
Dorothy Wightman, owner of Dorothy Wightman Interior Design
