Shakshuka
Braising eggs in a flavoursome, aromatic sauce is all the rage. It is warming and comforting, ideal for the morning when you are not normally up for a great culinary challenge. In North Africa they have known this dish for many years. There, according to region, they have many variations on this theme, with sauces varying in spiciness, sweetness and sharpness. You can add preserved lemon to your shakshuka, harissa paste, olives or a salty ewe's cheese. A spicy sausage – such as merguez or chorizo – is also suitable.
The shakshuka sauce can be made in advance and warmed up at your convenience, but with the eggs, timing is of the essence. You want to make sure that the whites are just set while the yolks are still runny. And there is no way you can serve your shakshuka without a nice chunk of bread.
One restaurant in Jaffa has decisively helped in making shakshuka a national Israeli obsession. At Dr Shakshuka, aptly named because they are the biggest experts, workers and suited office workers sit together daily along long laminate tables and lunch directly from old and bumpy frying pans with only bread to soak up the sauce. It is a colourful image and the most delicious.
Serves 4 generously
cumin seeds ½ tsp
light olive oil or vegetable oil 180ml
large onions 2, sliced
red and yellow peppers 2 of each, cut into 2cm strips
muscovado sugar 4 tsp
bay leaves 2
thyme sprigs, leaves picked and chopped 6
chopped parsley 2 tbsp
chopped coriander 2 tbsp, plus extra to garnish
ripe tomatoes 6, roughly chopped
saffron threads ½ tsp
cayenne pepper a pinch
water up to 250ml
free-range eggs 8
salt and black pepper
In a very large pan dry-roast the cumin seeds on a high heat for 2 minutes. Add the oil and onions and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the peppers, sugar and herbs and continue cooking on a high heat for 5-10 minutes to get a nice colour. Add the tomatoes, saffron, cayenne and some salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 15 minutes. During the cooking, keep adding water so that the mix has a passata consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning. It should be potent and flavoursome. (You can prepare this mix well in advance.)
Remove the bay leaves, then divide the pepper mix between four deep frying pans, each large enough to take a generous individual portion. Place them on a medium heat to warm up, then make two gaps in the pepper mix in each pan and carefully break an egg into each gap. Sprinkle with salt and cover the pans with lids. Cook on a very(!) gentle heat for 10-12 minutes, or until the eggs are just set. Sprinkle with coriander and serve.
Yotam Ottolenghi is chef patron of Ottolenghi and NOPI
• This article was amended on 24 April 2012. A reference to Formica, which is a trademark, has been changed to laminate.
