Patience is a virtue in the slow-moving world of wine, but few take the principle as far as the R López de Heredia bodega in Rioja. When the López de Heredia family were harvesting the grapes for the most recent vintage of what many regard as Spain's best white wine, Barcelona was preparing to host the Olympics, and Neil Kinnock was still looking like a prime minister in waiting.
That wine, the 1991 Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva (£65, Berry Bros, bbr.com), was finally released a year ago, but like all the bodega's production it was worth the wait. Having spent almost a decade resting in large oak vats, then in smaller American oak barrels before being transferred to bottle to age for another decade, its flavours and appearance are far removed from most modern white wines (most of which are consumed a year or two following vintage).
It is almost a different genre of drink entirely: deep gold, its character nutty and waxy as much as fruity, with notes of caraway, tarragon, pears and quince. It's still perky, however, and, judging by older vintages, capable of ageing for a few more years.
Back in 1991, most white Rioja was still made in a way that approximated, usually roughly, to the approach of López de Heredia and other classic bodegas such as Marqués de Murrieta and La Rioja Alta. Namely, long periods in American oak, no matter how dirty it might be, were seen as a virtue. The quality of the grapes was almost an afterthought. Most whites were dull and lifeless, their reputation for quality on a par with that of the food on offer at the average Costa del Sol hotel.
Things began to change dramatically from the 1990s, as a generation of winemakers who had grown up post-Franco emerged. With a more cosmopolitan outlook than their predecessors, they drew their influences from around the world rather than the bodega up the road. Their approach – concentrating on securing ripe fruit, working in spotless wineries, using French rather than American oak, or none at all – was entirely different.
For the most part, the change has been positive: Spanish whites today no longer pale in comparison to the more famous reds. The best of them tend to be made from indigenous grape varieties to the north. I'm also a fan of many of the whites being made from a hotch-potch of varieties in parts of Catalonia.
Indeed, the only place where I have mixed feelings about the new wave of white winemaking in Spain is Rioja. If you're going to make fresh, unoaked whites, you need a variety with enough character to work on its own. Sadly viura, Rioja's main white grape, is not that variety. I'm also yet to be convinced that wines made in the other modern fashion – aged for a shorter time in new French, rather than the traditional American, oak barrels – will ever have the same magic of the best traditional white Riojas.
Of course, I could be wrong. After all, even the "traditional" methods of Viña Tondonia were considered modern when they were first introduced a century ago. During a visit to the modernist Rioja producer Finca Allende, I was told that the distinction between new and old in Spain was a bit of a red herring. Before making a judgment on the new-style wines, they said, I needed to wait for them to prove their worth over decades. I needed to show, like all the best winemakers, a little patience.
Six of the best Spanish whites
Vinarius Viura-Verdejo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León, Spain 2010 (£6.95, Vineyards Direct) A fresh unoaked viura, this wine's personality comes largely from the fragrant verdejo that makes up the rest of the blend. Mixing pungent tropical fruit and crisp acidity, it will appeal to lovers of sauvignon blanc.
Bodegas La Val Villa Ludy Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain 2010 (£7.48, Asda) A neat introduction to the charms of Galician albariño at a very good price, this offers the variety's trademark peachy character with a nip of lemony citrus freshness that makes it a fine partner for seafood.
Castell del Remei Blanc Planell, Costers del Segre, Spain 2010 (£9.99, Virgin Wines) Another fish-friendly style, this time from Costers del Segre in Catalonia, this is mouth-puckeringly citrus-fresh, with a beguiling touch of almost medicinal green herbs and a hint of very crisp, unripe pear.
Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain 2010 (£15.99, selected Waitrose) Palacio de Fefiñanes were making albariño in an elegant, crisp style decades before the rest of Galicia caught up. Blossom, a gentle touch of apricot, fennel and dancing acidity make this a very fine aromatic white wine.
Benjamín Romeo Macizo, Catalunya, Spain 2009 (£19.99, Corney & Barrow) Romeo is best known for his work in Rioja, but this powerful, zesty blend of local and international varieties is a pure expression of Catalonia, with great mineral and wild-herb complexity alongside the rich orchard fruit.
Finca Allende Blanco, Rioja, Spain 2008 (£20.40, Berry Bros & Rudd; £20.99, The Secret Cellar) A great white Rioja, and an advert for the modern style, this 50/50 blend of malvasia and viura is fermented and aged in new French oak barrels, and is rich, round and full-flavoured with luscious tropical fruit.
