Interview by Eleanor Morgan 

Taste test: Spanish food

José Pizarro tastes and rates jamón iberico, serrano, chorizo, morcillo, manchego and membrillo
  
  

Jose Pizzaro shot for OFM
Jose Pizzaro shot for OFM on 17 Feb 2012 Photograph: Mark Harrison Photograph: Mark Harrison

Jamón Iberico


Selfridges Jamón Ibérico de Bellota £22 per 100g, selfridges.com
One of the best Ibérico hams I've ever eaten. The smell, the beautiful fat marbling and the deep, nutty flavour is exquisite. ★★★★★

Ibérica Jamón Ibérico Gran 10 Vetas £18 per 100g, ibericalondon.com
Again, there's some lovely fat marbling which gives this a very nice slippery texture. Great sweet flavour, if ever so slightly salty. ★★★★

Waitrose Jamón Ibérica de Bellota 75g, £8.49, waitrose.com Smells of acorns, which is great, but flavour not too nutty. ★★★★

Marks & Spencer Jamón Ibérica de Bellota £14.99 per 100g from deli counters On both appearance and touch this is far too dry. The meat breaks apart. Flavour not bad, but it's not pleasant to eat.

Serrano

Ibérica Serrano from Teruel £4.50 per 100g, ibericalondon.com Smells rich, piggy and delicious. It has a wonderful silky feel in the mouth and a great aftertaste – this is a fantastic product. ★★★★★

Tesco Finest Serrano Ham £3 per 100g, tesco.com The meat is cut well, and very thinly, and has a soft texture. Good flavour, too - sweet and long-lasting. ★★★★

Marks & Spencer Serrano 85g, £2.99, marksandspencer.com This is a little bit too soft - you want some resistance in your mouth. It's also too salty, which serrano shouldn't be. ★★★

Harvey Nichols Serrano £4.89 per 100g, harveynichols.com There is an overpoweringly salty flavour here, which detracts from a pleasant texture. You need a glass of water within reach. ★★★

Chorizo


Sainsbury's Spicy Chorizo Ring 225g, £2.50, sainsburys.co.uk This meat has been cured very well. The flavour is dense and smoky with pimentón and there is a good hum of garlic. Great. ★★★★

Marks & Spencer Chorizo 200g, £2, marksandspencer.com Very garlicky, which I personally like, but may overpower other flavours. Tiny bit too dry. ★★★

Tesco Finest Chorizo Ring 225g, £2, tesco.com This smells better than it tastes. It's slightly bitter in flavour and perhaps a little too heavy-handed with the paprika. ★★★

Ocado Revilla Chorizo Puchero 110g, £2, ocado.com Cuts well and has good mouth-feel, but the flavour just isn't there. It would need bolstering with some garlic and sherry vinegar. ★★

Morcilla

Saborear Morcilla de Arroz 350g, £3.90, saborear.co.uk Exceptional meat quality here, and well spiced. The excellent fat marbling means it cooks beautifully, too. ★★★★

Delicioso Smoked Morcilla Asturiana 250g, £5.25, delicioso.co.uk This one smells lovely and smoky and it really doesn't disappoint at all on tasting. ★★★★

Melbury & Appleton Morcilla with Onion 6, £3.55, melburyandappleton.co.uk This is a little too over-spiced for my liking. It gets you right at the back of the throat. The texture is nice though, if a little too dry. ★★★

Tapas Lunch Company Morcilla for Cooking 200g, £2.15, tapaslunchcompany.co.uk Wonderful texture – it fries nicely and remains soft. However, there's not quite enough background spicing for me. ★★★

Manchego


Marks & Spencer Manchego £1.78 per 100g, marksandspencer.com

Wonderful depth of flavour, perfect piquancy and creaminess. I'd happily eat a whole block of this. ★★★★★

Harvey Nichols Matured Manchego £2.89 per 100g, harveynichols.com This is nice and smooth and creamy on the palate and lovely to eat, with a very good sharpness that balances out the richness. ★★★★

Tesco Finest Manchego £1.29 per 100g, tesco.com A beautiful ivory colour and great texture, but tastes sweet and bland. Manchego ought to pack a punch. ★★★

Ibérica Manchego Gold £3.63 per 100g, ibericalondon.com Slightly plasticky in texture and it's not creamy enough for me, but make up for that with its strong, sheepy flavour. ★★★

Membrillo


Selfridges El Pèsol Quince £1.50 per 100g, selfridges.com Almost floral with strong, fruity quince, and it's lovely how the grain comes through in the very smooth, spreadable texture. ★★★★★

Ocado Membrillo Quince 150g, £2.49, ocado.com Again, floral in taste, which suggests high fruit content. Quite slippery, but fantastic with the manchego. ★★★★

Harvey Nichols Maggie Beer Quince Paste 100g, £3.99, harveynichols.com Nice, spreadable texture and isn't overpoweringly sweet. Would be great with very strong cheeses. ★★★★

Ibérica Membrillo 125g, £3.75, ibericalondon.com Has a pleasant quince flavour, but I find this a little too dry. It doesn't spread well, though which defeats the object of membrillo. ★★★

José Pizarro is chef patron of José and Pizarro in London. His new book Spanish Flavours is published by Kyle Books in May at £15.99.

 

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