Braden rost ("roasted salmon" in Gaelic) is cured with sea salt and unrefined brown sugar, then smoked at an ambient temperature like traditional smoked salmon for 12 hours before extra fire boxes are lit and the fillets then cook through. Braden rost can be served hot, cold or warm, and the obvious accompaniment is horseradish. It could be flaked into a salad with a horseradish-spiked dressing.

Serves 4
small waxy potatoes, such as Roseval or Charlotte 400g
hot good-quality horseradish sauce 2 tbsp
mayonnaise 4 tbsp
spring onions 4, thinly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
hot-smoked salmon (braden rost) 400-500g
lemon 1, quartered

Cook the potatoes in their skins in boiling salted water until just tender, drain and allow to cool slightly, but peel while warm. With a fork, crush the potatoes in a bowl, again while still warm, then mix with the horseradish, mayonnaise and spring onions, and season with salt and pepper.

Cut the salmon into 4 evenly sized pieces and arrange each on a serving plate alongside a pile of the potatoes and one of the lemon quarters.

• Extracted from Fish Etc by Mark Hix (Quadrille, £12.99)