Fuchsia Dunlop is one of those rare food writers who, rather than merely stirring the topsoil of a country's cuisine, likes to get right down to the roots. Her specialist interest is the cuisine of Sichuan, in south-west China. So when you ask Dunlop, who is fluent in Mandarin, to teach you how to make the perfect noodles and to share her favourite noodle dish, you can expect to learn more than just the essentials. Noodles, she tells me, mean different things in different regions.
"Broadly speaking, in the northern part of China, wheat is the staple grain and noodles or other wheaten foods form part of nearly every meal, whereas in places like Sichuan in the south, rice is the staple and noodles are eaten less often – perhaps as a casual, snacky lunch if you're out on your own. Dan Dan noodles – her favourite – "were originally made by Chengdu street vendors who carried their gear around in a basket or barrel slung from either end of a bamboo shoulder pole, or 'dan' in Mandarin. The vendor would set up in a back street and call out 'dan dan mian', and people would come out and have a bowl."
On the boil
Boil a pot of water and add the noodles. If they are fresh, first pull them apart gently so they don't clump together. If dried, give them a stir after you've put them into the water. Ideally, I'd use fresh Chinese alkali noodles, made with flour, water and lye water which gives them a lovely, bouncy springy texture as well as a yellowish tint. But normal fresh noodles are fine, and I often use dried noodles at home.
Take a bite
Fresh noodles cook very quickly. Dried noodles take a few minutes longer, depending on the thickness. Cook them at a good rolling boil. When you think they might be ready, take one out and snap it or bite it and check that it's cooked through – if it's still white in the centre, it needs more time.
Introducing noodle water
Drain the noodles. You might want to save some of the water. (In northern China, they drink it as a soup. It has a silky texture and it's quite comforting.) Add whatever seasonings you are using, and serve immediately.
fuchsiadunlop.com
Classic Dan Dan noodles
Serves 2
cooking oil 3 tbsp
minced pork 100g
Shaoxing wine 2 tsp (available in Waitrose or Chinese supermarkets and online)
sweet fermented sauce 1 tsp (available in Chinese supermarkets and online)
light soy sauce 1 tsp
dried Chinese wheat flour noodles 200g, or fresh noodles 300g
For the sauce
stock (or noodle cooking water) 200ml
light soy sauce 2 tsp
salt ¼ tsp
Chinkiang vinegar 1 tsp (available from Chinese supermarkets and online)
chilli oil with its sediment 2-4 tbsp, to taste
spring onion greens 4 tbsp, finely sliced
Tianjin preserved vegetables 5 tbsp (from Chinese supermarkets and online)
Add the oil to a seasoned wok over a medium flame and swirl it around. Tip in the pork and stir-fry until it changes colour. Add the wine, stir a few times, then add the sweet fermented sauce and stir-fry until you can smell it. Season with the soy sauce, and salt to taste, and press the meat against the wok with your ladle to encourage it to separate out into little morsels. When the mince has separated out and is fragrant but still juicy, remove from the wok and set aside.
Bring a panful of water to boil and, in a separate pan, reheat the stock, if using. Boil the noodles to your liking in the water. While they are cooking, place all the sauce ingredients except for the stock in a serving bowl.
When the noodles are ready, drain them in a colander (reserving some of the cooking water if you are not using stock). Add the stock or noodle cooking water to the sauce. Place the noodles in the bowl, top with the pork and serve. Before eating, give the noodles a good stir until the sauce and meat are evenly distributed.
