Turkey is not such a big tradition in France so I've never hesitated to cook something like pheasant. The cep powder enhances the rich earthiness of the game bird and although ceps are not traditionally part of Christmas dinner here, when I was a child my mother would dry them in the autumn so that she could cook them as a treat.
Serves 6
For the braised cauliflower
butter 60g
large cauliflower 1
toasted caraway seeds 1 tsp
bay leaf 1
buttermilk 1 litre
Roast pheasant:
pheasants 3
butter 100g
vegetable oil 4tbsp
shallots 200g
celery 2 sticks
thyme 4 sprigs
garlic 3 cloves
cep/porcini powder 1tbsp
white wine 100ml
quince syrup 3 tbsp
veal stock 200ml
In a cast iron pan, melt the butter until foamy and colour the cauliflower, all over, to a light brown, then add the caraway seeds, the bay leaf and the buttermilk. Bring to the boil then lower the heat to a strong simmer and cover with a lid but keep ajar. It will take about 30 mins until the cauliflower is completely cooked.
Preheat the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Detach the pheasant legs from the body, then cut in two to separate the drumsticks from the thighs. With a heavy knife, cut each drumstick in three. In another cast iron pan, heat 80g of the butter with the oil, colour the pheasant crowns on each side, then place the meat in a roasting tin, backbone side down.
In the same pan, colour the thighs and drumsticks, then add to the roasting tray. Pour the fat from the pan over the birds and place the roasting tray in the oven. After 15 mins, add the sliced shallots, celery, thyme and garlic. Return to the oven for another 15 mins.
Once done, remove the crowns and thighs from the tin and rest on a plate. Dust the cep powder over the skin, cover with foil and keep in a warm place.
Next, deglaze the roasting tray with the white wine, reduce by half, then add 3 spoons of quince syrup and the veal stock, then pour all of it in an appropriate saucepan, cover with a lid and simmer for 10minutes.
Pass the sauce through a fine sieve in a clean saucepan and reduce to a light consistency. Finish with the other 20g of butter, swirl and adjust the seasoning.
To serve, cut the breasts from the crowns. Place one on each plate with a thigh. Cut the cauliflower in 6 and place a piece on each plate. Spoon the sauce around and serve immediately.
Bruno Loubet is head chef of Bistro Bruno and Grain Store, London; brunoloubet.com
