We arrived with an overnight case in the back of the car and drove home with barely a centimetre of room left in the boot. Bring your appetite and be prepared to work up a thirst; a weekend in Orange is all about good food, fantastic wine and leaving the supermarket and liquor barns far, far behind.

Cellar doors

You can feel the difference in temperature the moment you step into Orange’s revitalising crisp air – that’s what being in the shadow of Mount Canobolas, more than 4500ft above sea level does for you – and that cooler climate has given rise to a wine industry that continues to grow and impress.

There are more than 30 cellar doors in the area, which makes for a promising afternoon spent visiting your favourites. They are, however, fairly well spread out, which makes a car pretty much essential, along with someone clear-headed enough to drive it.

So pace your tastings and choose your list with a bit of care. (That might keep your budget in check too – you’ll probably want to pick up a couple of bottles at each stop.)

I say all this because a very warm welcome at Ross Hill Wines almost did for our whole trip. A light-filled converted apple shed with a welcome fire in colder months, generous tables to share and views over the vineyards and orchards is quite the place for a tasting, particularly when the wine and hospitality are as irresistible as this. We only just managed to leave sober enough to drive back down the lane, bottles clanking merrily in the boot.

Less homely but equally charming is Brangayne, just down the road, with more of those lush, vineyard views, while the cellar doors at De Salis and Philip Shaw have both their own unique appeal, and some of the most delicious bottles in the region.

Given the amount of booze on offer, food is a very sensible plan, and the cellar door at De Salis, with its gobsmacking vista, is the perfect spot for a picnic. They suggest ordering through local company Completely Hampered, although there are also plenty of fantastic local producers about if you fancy doing your own legwork.

At some point it’s almost inevitable that you’ll realize that all those brilliant chats with winemakers mean you’ve bought enough pinot noir for a small army. But somehow, there’s not much of it around a couple of months later. And if your travelling companion begins making noises about actually just fancying a beer, Orange also has a craft brewery: add a few of Badlands Brewery’s ales to your haul. 

Amazing produce

Alongside the neat rows of vines, you’ll also find orchards; cherries and apples being the pride of, erm, Orange. You’ll be able to buy direct from some of these producers at farm gates as you trundle between cellar doors, or time your weekend right and you can cheerfully empty your pockets at the local farmers markets. (Orange and Bathurst on the second and fourth Saturdays of every month, respectively.)

We left laden with local cheese from the Second Mouse Cheese Company, more preserves than available cupboard space, local honey, olive oil, and verjus. You’ll find buckets of tasty, fresh veg and a number of varieties of local apples. And if you don’t make the market, there’s also a deli, A Slice of Orange, off the rather scruffy main drag.

I can’t consume another thing …

Even the greediest weekender might find themselves faltering in the face of so many calories. The crisp, clean air on a trip out to Mount Canobolas, still verdant among the grey and mist when we visited thanks to its volcanic soil, hopefully offsets some of wine fumes.

There are a variety of short trails – if you’re after something a bit longer join a couple together – or the lazy can drive to the summit. Our view was pretty much of cloud only, but a clearer day should bring more varied panoramas.

For a flatter walk, you might try Orange’s botanic gardens. Perhaps somewhat grandly named – they’re effectively a posh park – but just lovely for a Sunday morning stroll.

Orange has a couple of shops selling expensive nice things you don’t need and only buy on weekends away, but if you’re after a long browse of pricey homewares, accessories and candles, you’re better heading out to Millthorpe. (As a bonus, you can have Sunday lunch at Tonic, which is a real treat.) The village is sweet in a heritage kind of way, with lots of effort put into preserving its buildings and street views. The entire place is classified by the National Trust. It’s a bit like being on a film set.

Sleep

We stayed at the De Russie Suites, a complex of mini-apartments which have little kitchenettes, really decent beds and some welcome space to relax between a hard afternoon wine tasting and heading out for dinner. Cozy and comfortable, and a short walk from Orange’s bars and restaurants: rooms from $150-$430.

The Black Sheep Inn, 9km outside Orange, offers a rather different experience – a converted shearing shed it’s all tin roof and and exposed shell with comfortable communal areas. The bathrooms in particular look fantastic. Rooms from $175-$270.

Eat and drink

Book your table at Racine the same time you book your hotel – this place is fabulous. Everything here finds the right balance between luxury and relaxed, from the smiley service to the bright room with its inspiring vista.

Food doesn’t disappoint either: flavoursome, tender local venison comes with earthy beetroot, red cabbage and black rice; a dish of mushroom, swede, egg, granola proves totally delicious (I admit I needed convincing); and a pudding of carrot cake and flavours carries a curry kick. It’s a joy, and great value for this level of cooking: three courses $75, five course set menu $90. The wine is as good as you’d expect and they also have a bakery in the town centre.

More informal – although Racine is by no means stuffy – and closer to town, for ease of stumbling home, is Union Bank Wine Store. A good looking space is bright and buzzy, with a decent bar food for sharing, and a varied wine selection with knowledgeable staff. Great place for a light dinner and a taste of local wines.

And to get you going the following morning … Factory Espresso feels like a slice of Melbourne dropped into Orange. A new extension to Bills’ Beans roasters, it’s a busy, stylish café with great coffee – of course! – and some interesting brunch offerings. The pies looked to die for.

Practicalities

Getting there and around

Orange is around three hours west of Sydney by road. You can hire bikes locally, but you’ll probably need a car if you’re intending to visit a number of cellar doors – if only to carry your haul home.

When to visit

The annual food week is at the beginning of April, and wine week is at the end of October. Thanks to its the colder climate Orange gets dramatic autumn colour 

• Guardian Australia travelled with Destination New South Wales