The Mallorcan capital has the best restaurants in the Balearics – and some of the worst. It’s easy to find yourself in an overpriced hole surrounded by other glum tourists. But innovative, cosmopolitan food is at hand, and there are bargains to be had in Palma. Many places offer a lunch deal, a menú del día, which is a great way to sample top-notch food that would blow the budget in the evening.
The Room
The former fishermen’s district of Santa Catalina, with its rapidly gentrifying streets, may not seem the obvious choice for a good-value meal but La Crisis (Spain’s economic meltdown) is keeping prices keen. The Room serves lunches as fresh and simple as its white walls and chunky wooden tables. Its three-course €13 menú del día, including a drink, is a steal – a starter of couscous with nectarines and mint blew away the summer heat.
• Carrer de Cotoner 47, +34 971 281536, theroompalma.es. Open Mon-Sat for lunch and dinner
Bunker’s
Round the corner, Bunker’s menu reflects chef Luigi Valdambrini’s Roman roots. It’s small, so you can watch Luigi slaving away in the kitchen as you gorge. It’s only open in the evenings but prices are excellent for the quality: aubergine caponata with raspberry vinegar and honey, topped by a quail’s egg, is €8; wild boar pappardelle €14.
• Carrer de Soler, +34 971 220504, facebook.com/BunkerPalma. Open Tues-Fri 10am-11.30pm, Sat-Sun 7.30pm-11pm
Diner Palma
A little piece of Americana has landed in Santa Catalina – cue red vinyl booths, chrome counters, vintage signs, and the best burgers in Palma. Choose from a sensible-sized regular at €5.50 to a 300g double Texas at €11. There’s also a branch near the bus and train stations. Both restaurants are often packed with locals so don’t feel too guilty.
• Carrer de Sant Magí 23, Santa Catalina +34 971 736222, dinerpalma.es. Open daily 24/7
Celler Sa Premsa
This cavernous hall will get you back on the Spanish track – it’s about as traditional as it comes, all bullfighting posters and slightly surly waiters, but the cooking is spot-on. It concentrates on Mallorcan specialities such as tumbet (slices of aubergine, potato and red pepper) at €5.30 and conill amb ceba (roast rabbit with onions) at €9.85. The three-course menu including a drink is €12.75.
• Plaça Obispo Berenguer de Palou 8, +34 971 723529, cellersapremsa.com. Open Mon-Sat, midday-4pm and 7.30pm-11.30pm
La Juanita
“This is not a restaurant, this is chaos,” said Albert Medina when I called to book a table in this tiny new place in the still-gritty barrio
of Sa Gerreria. Albert is owner, chef, washer-upper and a whirlwind of energy. He cooks simply brilliant food right in front of his guests – diners is too formal a word. Lunch dishes, such as courgette salad and palometa fish with capers, range from €5-€7. There is no menu in the evening. I had prawns, chicken with a cucumber dip, squid in tempura and pork fillet with samfaina (similar to ratatouille). Expect to pay €20-€25 including wine. Albert also does cookery lessons for a bargain €15pp.
• La Sala dels Flassaders 4, +34 653 441208, no website. Open Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and Thurs-Sat from 8.30pm.
La Ruta Martiana
There’s a bunch of vibrant bars in Sa Gerreria and the best way to explore them is on the massively popular Ruta Martiana (Martian route) on Tuesdays, when each place offers a special tapa and a drink for €2. Just look out for the cartoon Martian in the windows of participating bars: top spots include Bar Farina (Carrer del Pes de la Farina 10), Molta Barra (next door) and Ca La Seu (Carrer de Corderia 17). It’s a marvellous way to spend a night – bar-hopping, people-watching and eating your fill for a few euros.
• rutamartiana.wordpress.com
Quina Creu
Still in Sa Gerreria but a notch above, this bistro bar is about as sophisticated as it gets in Palma – a long dark bar, black-clad waiters, slightly saucy films projected on to a screen. Pick out pinchos (€1.50) from the two dozen on offer or order from the menu (cod fillet with alioli and quince gratin was €2.85) and watch a hip crowd drift in and out. Its three-course menú del día is €12.50 with drink (not available Saturdays).
• Carrer de Corderia 24, +34 971 711772, quinacreu.com. Open Mon-Sat midday-1am
Simply Fosh
Palma’s best-known chef is a Brit, Marc Fosh. Simply Fosh is right in the heart of the city, in the refectory of the 17th-century Hotel Convent de la Missió. It’s expensive in the evenings but its set-lunch menú del dia is more affordable at €28. Three courses might include a strawberry salmorejo (like gazpacho) starter with avocado, coriander and langoustine, a main of rump steak with white asparagus, chervil and pink pepper, and chocolate, mint and gooseberry for pudding.
• Carrer de la Missió 7, +34 971 720114, simplyfosh.com. Open 1pm-3.30pm and 7.30pm-10.30pm daily
La 5a Puñeta
This neighbourhood bar near Plaça del Mercat is open at lunch but is more fun at night – be prepared to fight your way through the crowd to get to the bar and a long line of fantastic pinchos, such as sardines and green pepper topped with serrano ham. The dishes are replenished through the evening, so keep an eye out for new ones. Pinchos €1.65, wine from €1.65 a glass.
• Carrer de les Caputxines 3, +34 971 711571, no website. Open Tues-Sat midday-4pm and 7.30pm-midnight, Mon 7.30pm-midnight
Cervecería Anfos
This restaurant turns a casual wander into Palma’s market, the Mercat de l’Olivar, into a foodie’s bargain hunt. You scour the fish stalls for a deal of the day – I found turbot at an amazing €11 a kilo – take it to Anfos and they cook it for you (€3.50pp). There are no frills in decor or food: everything is seared on the griddle, drizzled in olive oil and served. There’s a menu if you’re too scared/lazy to shop. Starters around €6, mains €12.
• 1st floor, Mercat de l’Olivar, +34 971 729120, facebook.com/Cerveceria-Anfos. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-7pm
