I was born in Lima, Peru, and know it like the back of my hand. There are several bars I love, but Bar Juanito is my favourite. It has the most iconic history. It opened over 70 years ago, in the bohemian neighbourhood of Barranco. It was the home of poets, writers, musicians and artists; Allen Ginsberg would visit when in town. Don Juanito, the founder, was a very cultured man.

It is famed for its delicious huancaína potatoes, marinated pig’s trotters, cheap beer and great pisco sours, and was also a place to hear every style of Peruvian music. Deals were made, marriages proposed, artists met their dealers, musicians would try out their new songs … In short, it was the place to be for 60 or more years.

In the early days, men were not allowed to sit in the first few seats at the entrance as it was thought that it would discourage women from coming in. “The most beautiful women in Lima,” Don Juanito would say.

It closed in 2011, when Don Juanito Casusol passed away, which broke my heart. But early this year – hallelujah! – it reopened in the building next door to the original site, with the original furniture, decor, vibe and great food. César, Don Juanito’s son, runs it with other members of the family.

We modelled the main dining room at Ceviche (my restaurant in London) on it, and play the same music: rare funk, soul, jazz and punk from the 1960s and 1970s as well new music. All 100% Peruvian, of course.

• Bar Juanito, Avenida Grau 270, Barranco, Lima, facebook.com/eljuanitodebarranco. Martin Morales is the chef-owner of Ceviche and Andina restaurants in London. He recently compiled an album, Peru Bravo, out on his own Tiger’s Milk label