From climbing to mountain-biking, north Wales is a hub for mud-spattered activity holidays. It has the mountains, the coastline and, increasingly, novel attractions such as Surf Snowdonia and Bounce Below. In this part of the world, exhaustion is a growth industry.

If breathlessness is your bag, Tim Watson is a good man to know. A fell runner, climber and wild swimmer, he loves slogging across north Wales and, annoyingly, looks much nearer 40 than 51. Thankfully, for relative slobs like me, the Kinmel Arms, the pub Tim runs with his wife, Lynn, is far more orientated to sweet lethargy than painful build-ups of lactic acid.

It is in St George, a tiny hamlet off the A55 south of Rhyl. The coast is mile or two away and it’s half an hour from Snowdonia but, gloriously, there is almost nothing to do or look at here. The only sensible option is to settle by a log-burner in this historic, mainly Victorian inn, and work your way through Tim’s wine collection. It is reassuring to know he has some vices.

Kinmel’s public bar has modern stained-glass panelling above the bar and all manner of bric-a-brac as decoration, from climbing equipment to jars of olives. Tim’s art features prominently (he is working artist, with a studio built into the inn), but it still feels like an unpretentious country pub. Locals banter over pints at the bar, and, on this Tuesday night visit, the newer conservatory restaurant section (where noise rather bounces off the hard surfaces) was remarkably busy.

That is thanks, in part, to Chad Hughes, a smart, energetic chef who, while maintaining Kinmel’s integrity as a pub (he still serves burgers and fish and chips) has brought a sharp edge to its menu. His dish design is over-elaborate at times and he has to pander to a traditionalist audience to an extent (notably in his use of flashy-but-dull beef fillet). However, there is a lot that’s pleasing. Like everything else on the plate – particularly the indecently silky mash – that fillet had been cooked with elevated technical accuracy, and it was cleverly partnered with a fine, flavour-packed croquette of shredded beef shin. A seared mackerel starter and a chocolate tart with a core of molten salted caramel were similarly skilful.

After dinner, you can stagger to one of four enormous suites. The Watsons have owned Kinmel since 2002 and there is a slightly dated 1990s barn conversion aesthetic to the rooms (too much pale wood, for me), but Tim’s striking art, some handsome bespoke furniture and good fabrics give them a distinctive character. The fundamentals – one-click Wi-Fi, huge bed, feather pillows – are sound. More toiletries (no shampoo, oddly) and welcome biscuits would have been good, however, and the two lower rooms look out on to drab shrubbery and the ugly unfinished wall of an adjacent property.

Next morning, as I sat enjoying breakfast in my room, the door ajar to let in the birdsong, Kinmel certainly felt like a rural idyll – despite that breezeblock view. The in-room breakfast (a decent selection of baked goods, fruits, ham, cheese, cereals) is delivered while you’re at dinner and left in a tiny kitchenette hidden in the built-in wardrobes. That kitchenette is not the most elegant feature, and it gives the room a self-catering vibe, but it does mean that you can luxuriate over breakfast at your leisure. Unless, for some inexplicable reason, you are out running at 7am.

• Accommodation was provided by the Kinmel Arms (01745 832207, thekinmelarms.co.uk). Doubles from £135 a night B&B (£115 for two nights). Three-course dinner around £34, drinks extra. Travel between Manchester and Abergele & Pensarn was provided by Ariva Trains Wales, returns from £20

Ask a local

Stuart Russell, chef at pop-up project The Kitchen in Llandudno

• Beach
Despite being controversial, the newly created beach and Porth Eirias watersports centre has brought back a much-loved feature to Colwyn Bay. The whole north Wales coastline is spectacular.

• Coffee
For an intimate, trendy coffee shop, try Providero in Llandudno Junction. Great speciality teas, too.

• Art
Located in a renovated country house, Ffin y Parc has built a strong reputation displaying local artists mainly. Oriel Mostyn is another key contemporary art gallery, with a good gift shop.

Codtails & Dreams, a pop-up restaurant from The Kitchen, runs until October 17, thekitchenpopup.com